RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

added them roof hatches and turret hatch doors

and them standard heavy german access caps at the lower back side

after doing the suspension, i think i am going to shelf this project for the time being until i can figure out how and where to get E-100 tracks..... that or Ad hocing some king tiger tracks... since my printer isnt made to print superfine details of models with its 0.4mm nozzle. gonna go try to find a solution of getting a set of 0.2mm nozzles to see if the resolution will be decent enough to do with.

Hi Gig, at least give it a try printing the tracks with a 0.4 nozzle, you may be surprised
Cheers
Wayne


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Give them tracks a go mate, worst that can happen is they get to enable the thing to function while you get better ones, and if/when they wear out, no great loss.
Be a shame to shelve this for the sake of tracks that may or may not be any good
"Who Dares Wins"
The shit'st tracks on your JPE-100 will be better than my no JPE-100 I can give you the mail

this is with the 0.4mm nozzle and no matter how i do the coasting there will be that imperfect and undesirable blob blocking the opening.

Hi Gig,
I’m guessing you have a creality printer?
What material are you using & what temp are you running the extruder at?
Cheers
Wayne


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

midlife306 wrote:Hi Gig,
I’m guessing you have a creality printer?
What material are you using & what temp are you running the extruder at?
Cheers
Wayne


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ender 3

temp is at 200c
material ST-PLA
the retraction settings written on paper.
coasting distance written on each part.

last one i tried was 6.5mm coasting and that almost fixed the blobbing but deleted the middle teeth.

i made a simulated calculation. i just reversed the king tiger tracks and with added bits on to the ends and just need to adjust the wheels to meet with the guide horns!



hopefully in real time it will save me a headache to deal with!

Hmm, you shouldn’t be experiencing this issue at 200 degrees, I’d try a couple of things though.
I think you probably have a bottleneck in your extruder that you wouldn’t see on larger parts as it’s dribbling due to the pressure built up not being released by the retraction.
200 degrees & 60mm per sec won’t be helping the pressure either.
Please try cleaning or replacing the nozzle, cut a bit from the end of the Bowden tube & ensure there isn’t a blob of filament at the bottom of the tube throat.
Also try increasing the temp to say 210 degrees & reducing the print speed of the outer wall to 30mm per sec.
Please let me know how you get on.
Cheers
Wayne
Edit, also try zero coasting


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

midlife306 wrote:Hmm, you shouldn’t be experiencing this issue at 200 degrees, I’d try a couple of things though.
I think you probably have a bottleneck in your extruder that you wouldn’t see on larger parts as it’s dribbling due to the pressure built up not being released by the retraction.
200 degrees & 60mm per sec won’t be helping the pressure either.
Please try cleaning or replacing the nozzle, cut a bit from the end of the Bowden tube & ensure there isn’t a blob of filament at the bottom of the tube throat.
Also try increasing the temp to say 210 degrees & reducing the print speed of the outer wall to 30mm per sec.
Please let me know how you get on.
Cheers
Wayne
Edit, also try zero coasting


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

scrounge about in my printer tool box, and found a 0.3mm nozzle and installed it. i slowed the speed down to 30mm/s


im getting there with the same setting and coast at 5.5mm, blobbing seems to have been reduced to half and i can see an opening. gonna try with a 0.2mm with slower setting.