If it was me assembling the upper hull, I would chamfer the inside edges of each panel, so that the glue had two flat surfaces to make contact on, whilst it would leave a nice straight edge on the outside.
Then infill the groove that would be created along each edge.
As there would be a minimal contact point for the glue, I would then run plastic weld along each joint. I use this on a lot of models where I need to strengthen joints, it acts in seconds and bonds absolutely solidly. I even use it when I have already tacked pieces together with superglue. You will end up with a totally solid structure. If you build it and then make sure that the panels are aligned before using the weld, it will stay that way.
I recall the E25 from my World of Tanks days (haven't played for months), the damned things were fast, had lethal guns, and very difficult to penetrate. In the end the WOT guys had to downgrade them as they were causing such havoc.
Taigen Tiger 1 full option rctank.de special edition airbrush paint IR equipped Type 90 1/24 WSN T34
Heng long leopard 2a6
Heng long panzer 4 platinum
Heng long sherman
Grantham Light Armoured Division RCTC
Taigen Tiger 1 full option rctank.de special edition airbrush paint IR equipped Type 90 1/24 WSN T34
Heng long leopard 2a6
Heng long panzer 4 platinum
Heng long sherman
Grantham Light Armoured Division RCTC
That's a pretty neat job Merlin! Personally I would grind the joints smooth as I like a nice clean finish on my models but it's a personal thing. Well done! Did you get any heat distortion from the welding, it's hard to tell from the photo? Alwyn
Looks pretty solid! I'd consider grinding them out though as those welds are pretty huge compared to the real thing. Check out the interlocking welds on this KT