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Re: Anti Track recoil / Jerk

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:56 pm
by Tankbear
Have you tried running the flash unit off the tank battery? although lower voltage might still charge up but slower.

Also transmitter i've found that the batteries last a long time (unless I forget to switch off :{ ) so although running two off same batteries I think it be ok. As for the interference no idea.

Re: Anti Track recoil / Jerk

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:40 pm
by daemond6
Get yourself a nice little bec, its what we use/recommend for use over at rcnavalcombat.com for receivers.

And yes, linking batteries/cells in parallel will add the mAh together, running in series adds the voltage.

Daemon

Re: Anti Track recoil / Jerk

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 7:49 am
by Herr Fritz
Hey Bear! The Flash power is not a problem at all.....its a pretty small 3V battery - a tad fatter than a AA and shorter. All the Flash gear fits very nicely inside the Tiger Turret.....plus you could not do that anyways....one of the leads to the 3v battery comes from the Capacitor ...which means that at each flash 500 more or less volts would run back and fry your lipo and your tanks brains....the FLASH unit needs to remain secluded which is why the trigger from your Tanks board is ONLY operating a 'RELAY' that remotely closes its other two contacts to set off your flash...those two wires carry the max 600 volts to the xenon tube.

No need to be nervous about all this high voltage talk....when handled correctly its not so bad....look at me Ihmb fin..noo probllums aat oll :crazy:

In fact I am working on building a spring loaded hinge for the Escape hatch....that way I can open it up after 'play' or running over the neighbors small dog and touch a 10 watt 100 ohm ceramic resistor to 2 leads just behind the door to discharge the Capacitor so there is no chance of messing around in there and getting jolted by 600 volts...no amps mind you but 600 volts tickles a bit heheheh.

I'm also making as easy to get inside turret like the lower Hull...the cannon and its elevation motor will be mounted on the lower plate so all I need to do is lift up the top turret section to do quick adjustments, repairs and change out / exchange the 'flash' unit if I need to.

Daemon, Thanks sounds promising but I looked around for some bec units but have not seen any at 12 volts?

Hmmmm...... in series you increase voltage.....in parallel you increase 'power' or amps.
So I am assuming like in our standard transmitters those 8 AA's which add up to 12V but what does that mean for the amps? is it close to the same at one cell or is it amp X 8?

Re: Anti Track recoil / Jerk

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:38 pm
by Tankbear
I can appreciate wanting to keep the circuits seperate for the fear of voltage damage. Could always put an inline fuse to protect it, just a thought.
Herr Fritz wrote:Hmmmm...... in series you increase voltage.....in parallel you increase 'power' or amps.
So I am assuming like in our standard transmitters those 8 AA's which add up to 12V but what does that mean for the amps? is it close to the same at one cell or is it amp X 8?
The amps stay the same in series the voltage adds up. In Parellel it is other way round voltage stays same amps add up.

Re: Anti Track recoil / Jerk

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 6:32 pm
by Herr Fritz
A fuse would not work....as the high voltage is present pretty much all the time but really its not needed as space for most is not a problem as the better boards that run a camera flash cab be as small as 1.5" X 2.0" inches in my case the Capacitor is separate and plugs into its own socket as that is an item that can get weak or fail after time.

So looking down from the top along the left side of my barrels recoil unit will be all the goodies for the flash.

1. N style 3v battery holder.
2. The Flash control board.
3. Capacitor.

With leads running to:

1. 3 teflon coated wires to the xenon flash tube at the end of the barrel.
2. 2 trigger wires - one to ground and the other to the HL red ( air soft ) wire.
3. 2 wires in parallel from the Capacitor to the 'discharge port' behind the escape hatch.

All plug and play for easy & fast repairs / replacement.

Now this all works great and keeps it down to the factory 4 wires ( Phone cord detangler time! ) for the 360 turret rotation! or if your already loaded with too much in your turret a $20.00 6 pin ( slip ring connector ) would do the trick......except I wonder how it would do or how long it would last passing that voltage through it? hmmmmm.

I would post pics but everything is still a big mess of wires and sub assemblies on the bench.
that high