RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

forgebear wrote:See if this helps.
1. top left chrome switch- push backwards
2. top left right chrome switch - flick forward
3. hold the black button in next to the chrome switch
4 whilst holding this switch, power up your transmitter and then your tank
5. when the red light stops flashing, flick the right chrome switch backwards, flick the left chrome switch forward and the tank should start

if it doesn't flick the left chrome switch back to off, turn your transmitter off. Then turn your transmitter back on and flick the left chrome switch forward again to start

Hi forgebear, I tried that sequence today, still no joy.

john1970 wrote:silly question on the V3 taigen board you can use a hobby grade transmitter. You havent put the binding plug in it have you? Hobby rc receiver bind plug shouldnt be plugged in

Hi John1970, no that little plug isn't in the motherboard. Good thought, though.

Does anyone know how long the controller LED will flash for if the tank isn't even powered on? With the tank on or off, and going through the binding sequence on the controller, the LED stops flashing after about 4 or 5 seconds. If that's not the expected behaviour then I guess the issue is in the controller.

DaveNorthWales wrote:

forgebear wrote:See if this helps.
1. top left chrome switch- push backwards
2. top left right chrome switch - flick forward
3. hold the black button in next to the chrome switch
4 whilst holding this switch, power up your transmitter and then your tank
5. when the red light stops flashing, flick the right chrome switch backwards, flick the left chrome switch forward and the tank should start

if it doesn't flick the left chrome switch back to off, turn your transmitter off. Then turn your transmitter back on and flick the left chrome switch forward again to start

Hi forgebear, I tried that sequence today, still no joy.

sounds like a transmitter faulty or board if you have another transmitter try to bind that if it works then it will tell you your one is duff if not then its the board

forgebear wrote:sounds like a transmitter faulty or board if you have another transmitter try to bind that if it works then it will tell you your one is duff if not then its the board

No, we have no other controllers or any other RC kit. I'm hoping someone geographically close to me has one and volunteers that we can go there with our tank to try to identify which end is at fault.

No, I didn't put that plug in, but good idea.

Just completing my Taigen Tiger 1 kit, and am having similar problems getting the electronics to start properly. Finally got the sequence right, from this thread, and the the engine starts up, settles into an idling sound then dies. While this is going on (about 5 or 6 seconds) the lights keep flashing but nothing else responds. No movement from the motors etc.
The sound seems to die at exactly the same point each time. The lights continue to flash and the cooling fan is still going round.
Has anyone got any suggestions to what I can do differently?

Cheers

Battery charge level first.
I know, its a fully charged battery you say, but is it ?
Thats happened to me and it was a battery.

Next option.
Sometimes, Taigen systems lose their bind.
Again, I would not have bitten on this if it wasnt for Mr Forgebear talking me through the rebinding process & convincing me to try it.
Did that, service restored.
Try the rebinding process just to be sure.
The lesson I got from Mr Forgebear was..........just because it shouldnt happen, doesn't mean it dosen't happen.

Hi Herman,
Yes, fresh battery, but charging up another now, in case the first one is duff.
I did the re-bind, apparently OK. However my latest attempts don't get as far even as I originally did. Now I get a little initial sound but this quickly breaks up, then dies away and the fan on the MFU stops, There is then just a tick, tick, tick from the speaker.
I'll try it all again later when the new battery is charged.

I am of the same opinion as Mr. Bix, batteries discharged, often here you have to start checking. What type of charger do you use? if the original one? Is’t bullshit
... if more efficient? check the settings at the end of the battery, what type of battery do you use? Nicd, Nimh, or lipo? the problem is the same as on your car, battery discharged, there is enough voltage (volts) to power the lights, but not enough intensity (amperes) to activate the starter, it's the same here.