RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Son of a gun-ner wrote:See part B63 on this drawing, this is the item you seek. Should only be one on one side like Shaun says. But on your tank it's moulded on both sides.

Mick.

Ah yes , I see now. I will rectify it tomorrow.
In other news I can heartily recommend avoiding sand. I took my Tanks on the Beach again tonight & decided to strip them when I got home. Sand had got everywhere including the Tigers gearbox. Being plastic it gummed up fairly quickly. I have ordered a metal gearbox so it will be sorted soon. I know I intend replacing most parts as I go but I still want to get some playtime out of them first. It looks like i'll be taking mt Tanks to the woods instead?

The Taigen quick release is designed to work with a small lever under the sponsons, which can be hard to reach for thick fingers. If you flip the quick release over, it can be positioned below the RHS rear engine hatch. See my build thread:

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=20233&start=60#wrap


And the best way to lose a few hours is to find the RC Mojo Tiger build videos on YouTube.

Estnische wrote:And the best way to lose a few hours is to find the RC Mojo Tiger build videos on YouTube.

Wow, that's an old Tank. Looks the same vintage as my Panzer IV so I suspect some of the tips will be useful for that Tank as well?

Yup.

I've just bought a 27MHz Panther and fitted a RC5HL as mentioned in the radio episode.

Oh come on, Mick.

A kiddie pool, a few bags of play sand, and Bob's your uncle, instant beach!

Bill

Well I've killed the gearbox on the Tiger {My bad}. Sand ,plastic & metal don't mix; but I've got a Steel gearbox on the way from Forgebeartanks {hoorah!} so it should be back up & running by Tuesday. I'm also getting the Taigen 2.4ghx transmitter package as well so my Panzer IV should be running again.
One of the things to consider for my Tanks in the future is sealing up openings. Sealing the battery tray , in fact removing the battery tray. Periscope holes on the hatches filling so debris can't get in that way & using so fine mesh over the engine openings so the air can still circulate but Sand can't get in.
Can anyone recommend a safe way to remove the Aerial post from the back of the tanks?
I still have a load of parts coming to me, including the quick release for the Tiger. I might try one in my Panzer, turning the Tanks upside down all the time is asking for damage?

RT Hi,
www.aber.com.pl
make engine grills for the Tiger 1, Check their site by clicking on "Catalogue" and selecting 1/16 on the side bar,
The Tiger 1 had them over the engine bay for the same reason you want them,
It is an easy fit,
Dave (Forgebear) sells them, the part number is ---16-003 Tiger 1 -Ausf-E Grills.
It says on the label that it is for the Tamiya Tiger 1 but we all of us fit them to Heng Long, Taigen, or Torro.

The Brass aerial on the engine bay is best dealt with by sawing it off at the root with a modelling saw or if you have one a Dremel with a cutting disc then finish it off by filing it flush,
Once it has been painted with metal primer and a coat of red oxide then a top coat you wont ever know it was there,
Don't forget to remove the PCB directly under it, it is now redundant.
Shaun.

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Someone sealed the top and bottom of a tank together using silicon, they put silicon on one half, let it dry, then put tape on it, put silicon on the other half and put it together, when it again had gone off, they separated the halves, removed the tape and got a separable seal.

Mick.

Not sure I want to go that far at the moment although I have ideas. I think I have to concede that these Tanks are never going to be fording a river but i'll satisfy myself with keeping them water proof against splashes going through muddy puddles.

jarndice wrote:RT Hi,
http://www.aber.com.pl
make engine grills for the Tiger 1, Check their site by clicking on "Catalogue" and selecting 1/16 on the side bar,
The Tiger 1 had them over the engine bay for the same reason you want them,
It is an easy fit,
Dave (Forgebear) sells them, the part number is ---16-003 Tiger 1 -Ausf-E Grills.
It says on the label that it is for the Tamiya Tiger 1 but we all of us fit them to Heng Long, Taigen, or Torro.

The Brass aerial on the engine bay is best dealt with by sawing it off at the root with a modelling saw or if you have one a Dremel with a cutting disc then finish it off by filing it flush,
Once it has been painted with metal primer and a coat of red oxide then a top coat you wont ever know it was there,
Don't forget to remove the PCB directly under it, it is now redundant.
Shaun.

I was going to buy the Brass Engine grills, they will go on the top deck but I was thinking of using something cheap, like tights material under the deck to keep the sand out. The fine mesh should do a good job?

RT Your plan to fit the Turret and body onto a Metal Hull could produce a problem that you will have caused by solving another problem,
Some Heng Long RX18 control boards have a ducted fan fitted to keep them running cool,
Can you imagine how much heat would build up in a fully enclosed metal Hull where the only source of cool air (The engine louvre's) was blocked by your grandmothers tights
The only place where there needs to be real protection from the grit and dust is the Gearboxes,
That is as long as you keep away from the Beach and sandpits,
Afterall whenever you change the Battery you will be able to clean the inside of the Hull at the same time,
By the way the Wheels and transmission do not react well to long grass either.
It is an easy job to make and fit a Bulkhead between the gearboxes and the rest of the Hull,
Just type bulkhead into the search box on the top right of this page to find out how.
Shaun.