RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'm not sure if it's upside down, as much as it is bottomed out against the hull floor. See if you can turn the screws anti-clockwise to raise the square blocks up from the hull floor. That will cause the idler wheels to pivot down and forward, causing the tracks to loosen. You can remove a link from the track, to better adjust the tension. When you have the tension where you want it to be, you can screw the self-locking nut (where your finger was when you were moving it) down against the square block to keep it from moving. (You'll have to hold the screw from underneath to keep it from turning when you do this).

Yes, Kaiser is absolutely correct; I didn't see it when I looked at the video. Your brother installed them with arms (parts MP2) angled down, when they should be angled upwards. That's why you don't have any play to adjust the idlers and tighten the tracks. Good catch, Kaiser!

Ahh perfect!!!
THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH!!!

My brother did admit when he gave me this tank that he's not really a builder - just a modeller. (I'd already found a couple of things wrong with the build when I first got it)

Now, question is - how difficult is it for me to rectify this problem?
Will I need to rip all the wheel out to get to this idler bolt?

Thanks again

It seems it will take another ten years to get this Tiger right Muscles ...If it were me...I'd tear it down and get things sorted....worry about the paint and other stuff later

ALPHA

No, taking the running gear off won't help. You should just be able to move the nut on that bolt on the inside with a socket driver anti clockwise. That will then free up the bolt on the underside and use that to adjust the tension. Do you know what that dirt is made from? Is it pigment and acrylic fixer?

billpe wrote:No, taking the running gear off won't help. You should just be able to move the nut on that bolt on the inside with a socket driver anti clockwise. That will then free up the bolt on the underside and use that to adjust the tension. Do you know what that dirt is made from? Is it pigment and acrylic fixer?

Hi - did you mean don't bother flipping this thing that's supposedly upside down? Or did you mean I can still get this thing out by loosening that nut inside and I can then flip this thing the right way?

My brother said he used woodglue, plaster and paint in creating the mud.

Kiaser wrote:No it is the wrong way round I put a picture there to show him the square block should be on top .

Have a look at his YouTube video .

Hi - what do you mean SQUARE BLOCK?

Also, I've managed to take the thingy out to have a look.... it looks like it might have been installed correctly after all when I compare it to the manual.
Can you guys confirm please?
This thingy part I took out is the right side (looking at the tank from behind)
http://1drv.ms/1Ov0r05

And here it is against the manual:
http://1drv.ms/1LOxJRS

Kiaser wrote:Oops sorry muscles thought they were up side down the MP2's , when you set it up again note the position of the idler go to 6 on your instructions on the right hand side you will see the MG3 Grub screw , position the idler arm exactly then lock the outer grub screw for the outer arms .

Seeing you will be doing adjustments on a regular basis if this is not going to be a shelf queen , maybe a wire brush and clean the Crap off the head of the screw and my apologies to your brother

Hey - please no apologies needed! Without yours and Mike's input, I wouldn't know what to look for!
It's a bit hard for me to work on the tank as I didn't build it and I know nothing about tanks.

I stopped working on it last night as I wanted to wait for people's input just to make sure. I'll continue on it tonight before I lose interest and put this away half assembled (like most of my toys)
I'll see if I can complete it tonight and hopefully it will make my tracks tension better!

Muscleflex wrote:

billpe wrote:No, taking the running gear off won't help. You should just be able to move the nut on that bolt on the inside with a socket driver anti clockwise. That will then free up the bolt on the underside and use that to adjust the tension. Do you know what that dirt is made from? Is it pigment and acrylic fixer?

Hi - did you mean don't bother flipping this thing that's supposedly upside down? Or did you mean I can still get this thing out by loosening that nut inside and I can then flip this thing the right way?

My brother said he used woodglue, plaster and paint in creating the mud.

You should be able to unscrew the speaker box and get clear access to these nuts on the inside without anything else being done. Then simply screw the bolt on the underside of the tank in the direction you need to to get tension or release tension.