RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi - i'm picking up the King Tiger on Saturday. My brother said I can keep both if I wanted! He just wants to paint the King Tiger!

I don't know how to replace the servo... I've been looking all week and the cable connection is different - i.e. 2 wires instead of 3 on a servo.

Muscleflex wrote:Hi - i'm picking up the King Tiger on Saturday. My brother said I can keep both if I wanted! He just wants to paint the King Tiger!

Very Cool Muscles.... ...word of advice...put a time limit on the paint job ..........

I don't know how to replace the servo... I've been looking all week and the cable connection is different - i.e. 2 wires instead of 3 on a servo.

OH it's that kind of hook up...it's a no go with the servo then...it would require more expense than you would want to put in I think...best to find an original replacement and go with that ...Thing is sooner or later it will happen again

ALPHA

Haha yeah you have a good point on the time limit! Otherwise it'll take him 10 years again!
I did some work on the tiger last night mainly soldering the new XT60 battery connector to the unit so it can use a 2s lipo.

Muscleflex wrote:Haha yeah you have a good point on the time limit! Otherwise it'll take him 10 years again!

.......................... ..................

I did some work on the tiger last night mainly soldering the new XT60 battery connector to the unit so it can use a 2s lipo.

Good Job...when you get the King Tiger...if it needs work..maybe do a build thread....that way people can see what you are doing ...and if you need help..can contribute to your build


ALPHA

Here again!

I received the metal servo arm from Forebear (Dave?!) and decided to install it tonight. It seemed that it would help my clicking problem but... as soon as I installed it, the main gun was clicking worse than before!

And now I think I have found out why!
The servo arm does not actually hit the metal tabs acting as stops! Hence the jolt or jerking motion when the main gun elevates to its maximum and the clutch takes over...

Here is the video:
https://youtu.be/XX7ranTQhT8
[youtube]https://youtu.be/XX7ranTQhT8[/youtube]

Can anyone tell me how to fix this? I can't lengthen the servo arm because the stops at either end are actually not the same distance so if i shorten the arm to hit one stop, it will not hit the other stop!

Muscleflex wrote:Here again!

I received the metal servo arm from Forebear (Dave?!) and decided to install it tonight. It seemed that it wold help my clicking problem but... as soon as I installed it, he main gun was clicking worse than before!

And now I think I have found out why!
The servo arm does not actually hit the metal tabs acting as stops! Hence the jolt or jerking motion when the main gun elevates to its maximum and the clutch takes over...

Here is the video:
https://youtu.be/XX7ranTQhT8
[youtube]https://youtu.be/XX7ranTQhT8[/youtube]

Can anyone tell me how to fix this? I can't lengthen the servo arm because the stops at either end are actually not the same distance so if i shorten the arm to hit one stop, it will not hit the other stop!

I see a couple of things that might be happening. #1 There is a flat spot on the shaft that the metal arm is attached to, make sure the screw in the metal arm is on that flat spot. #2 In the Tamiya instruction manual, it tells you how long the linkage should be for max up and down of the barrel. The linkage I'm speaking of is attached at the top by that white plastic ball receiver. I don't have a Tiger instruction manual, sorry. Maybe someone else who does can chime in.

jtracks wrote: see a couple of things that might be happening. #1 There is a flat spot on the shaft that the metal arm is attached to, make sure the screw in the metal arm is on that flat spot. #2 In the Tamiya instruction manual, it tells you how long the linkage should be for max up and down of the barrel. The linkage I'm speaking of is attached at the top by that white plastic ball receiver. I don't have a Tiger instruction manual, sorry. Maybe someone else who does can chime in.

Hi - the manual states 2mm distance between the plastic ball links which I have done.

The flat spot on the shaft, I thought, is for the flat cut of the metal arm hole. The hole is not round - there's a flat bit that I just assumed is for this flat bit on the shaft (I can't insert the metal arm otherwise if the flat cut of the metal arm is not aligned with the flat side of the shaft)

Note: I have not used the E clip that came with the plastic servo arm. There is not much space when the metal arm is installed (it binds if I force the eclip). So I have just made sure the screw at the back of the metal servo arm is screwed in.

Here's a couple of photos:




And just for the sake of posting photos...