Re: HL Abrams detailing build
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 1:34 pm
I'll have to search and see if I can find the pic you found. Did it look like maybe it was a field expedient replacement for a broken off original?
RC Tank Warfare community modelling hobby forum
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I don't know....thought I kept it on my build thread...scanned through it a few times but I guess I didn'tgreengiant wrote:I'll have to search and see if I can find the pic you found. Did it look like maybe it was a field expedient replacement for a broken off original?
Now that I look at this photo again...it does have the "bend" like mine has....good!greengiant wrote:I did find a pic of an Abrams loaders hatch without all the added stuff. It's a Abrams M1E1 on display somewhere.
That is Freakin Intense!!!!!!!!!!!!!greengiant wrote:Finally decided to make the outer rear sprocket ring from scratch (with the correct inside edge scallops) to mount in front of the CITV tower.
Did it by taking picture of the HL one, sizing it down till it was the correct size, then glued to sheet styrene laminated together to get the thickness. Then used Dremel tool bur to cut to the pictures edges. Did the inside edge scallops by eye after grinding out the center hole then a pin vise to do the countersunk mounting bolt holes.
Painted desert color to make it look like it was added after the tank, in Nato colors, arrived in Iraq.
What I would worry about is the milling process of the metal sprockets...the heat might change the temper it was molded at making it brittle ...I saw your mod ...it makes the drive train look a 100% more realistic...but as far as I know...no one sells separate metal sprockets...so if they did fail on me...well ...I'd be up the creekgreengiant wrote:I haven't had any trouble wit the plastic sprockets. The sprocket cutouts are only on the outer section of the whole sprocket so I doubt there would be a problem with any cracking between the cut outs.
It could be done in metal but to hand grind it would be a chore, and would have to be done slowly so the paper template wouldn't burn up or have the glue holding it on release.
A machine shop that could do lost wax molds of a sample piece,it would give you brass sprockets but would cost a fortune and you'd probably have to order several thousand of them to get the price per piece down even a little.
Milling metal stuff without making it heat up is easy. Just dip the part to be drilled in oil. I use baby oil. It helps lubricate the bit used for grinding/drilling the metal away and so reduces heat build up PLUS makes drilling/grinding more efficient, i.e. more material is removed when it's lubricated. Repeat dipping in oil as much as possible. Helps cool things down. The hard part is aligning it, and having a drill press would be of help.ALPHA wrote: What I would worry about is the milling process of the metal sprockets...the heat might change the temper it was molded at making it brittle ...I saw your mod ...it makes the drive train look a 100% more realistic...but as far as I know...no one sells separate metal sprockets...so if they did fail on me...well ...I'd be up the creek![]()
ALPHA
How's their shipping Scalawag? Looked at their site when inquiring about your tracks...the prices are ok...but dang...shipping to Hawaii from Australia is killer...I didn't see shipping costs for them...but once I saw a model airplane I was interested in from a model shop down under...the model was a good price...but they wanted four time the cost of the model to ship itscalawag wrote:ALPHA wrote:.but as far as I know...no one sells separate metal sprockets...so if they did fail on me...well ...I'd be up the creek![]()
ALPHA
Here you go ALPHA
http://tankarmy.com/heng-long-tank/prod ... ets-p-1816
Very reliable retailer.
I might get a set and give it a try, why don't you as well?
I'm concerned that it will crack in use...machining is tricky for sure...but even when keeping it cool ...there still can be changes...Plastic sprockets will flex to a certain degree under stress....white metal will crackatcttge wrote:Milling metal stuff without making it heat up is easy. Just dip the part to be drilled in oil. I use baby oil. It helps lubricate the bit used for grinding/drilling the metal away and so reduces heat build up PLUS makes drilling/grinding more efficient, i.e. more material is removed when it's lubricated. Repeat dipping in oil as much as possible. Helps cool things down. The hard part is aligning it, and having a drill press would be of help.ALPHA wrote: What I would worry about is the milling process of the metal sprockets...the heat might change the temper it was molded at making it brittle ...I saw your mod ...it makes the drive train look a 100% more realistic...but as far as I know...no one sells separate metal sprockets...so if they did fail on me...well ...I'd be up the creek![]()
ALPHA