RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Comparing the size of the M-60A1 with my ARVN M-41A3 Walker Bulldog, also extensively modified. Currently at 12 pounds, the M-60 is heavy and quite a beast. The metal wheels and tracks added a lot of weight. Forget about installing these tracks while keeping the plastic gearbox… I have not re-installed the electronics yet or tested the new gearbox, wheels and tracks. Hope it will work fine. I also purchased the TONGDE centurion for an upcoming build, but that one will be simpler.

That's it for now. The construction phase of the USMC M-60A1 is getting towards the finish line. I still have a few things to do before installing the electronics, testing, and then painting.

Regards, Louis

I've watched some complicated builds (several of them have been yours) but this is some stunning work. I think I'd end up at the funny farm if I attempted this.

Well done, look forward to the paint and completion!

I'd end up on that 'farm'too, but it would cost me a fortune in Jack Daniels to get there!!
You sure do keep raising the bar on your builds Mr Mcq11

Amazing work, one of my favourite tanks seen in Gulf War 1 with the ERA in the desert.

1000% better looking than the stock TongDE.

Thank you Ecam, Herman, Ad Lav and tankme.


Some more updates.


The engine rear plate is permanently glued to the hull. It allows the gap at the bottom joint with the plastic hull to be filled with putty and sanded smooth.


It also allows the mud guard sides to be permanently glued to the lower hull. A positioning rim on the side of the tail lights were removed.


In order for the turret to rotate 360 degrees, but mainly to allow the gun to sit on its travel lock located at 180 degrees, the annoying stop that is put on the rotation wheel was removed, the missing teeth were easily carved with a Dremel disk and then finetuned with a sharp knife. I am making sure anyway never to do multiple 360s.


While testing the electronics, i noticed that one of the metal track link was broken. Not sure when this happened. I know that before i could configure the control board to adjust the hull back recoil mouvement, it was somehow set to maximum and the few gun recoil tests gave the gearbox and hull a terrible jolt. I then removed the hull recoil completely because even the lowest setting was too strong and i was concerned it would damage the gearbox. At least the control board is configurable for the hull recoil with an off setting.


Looking at that specific track link, we can see that even the two remaining connectors are not aligned. Something is terribly wrong with that link. It might be a molding issue, or the metal is simply weak, can easily break or distort, or the person assembling the track made an error and forced it. The replacement links are all ok, but only four are provided and i already used one without having run the model anywhere yet… I'll keep an eye on the tracks because i really do not like broken metal track links, which might be a symptom of some problem not yet identified.


The electronics were installed without any ceremony, the inside is not the hightlight of this build. TONGDE provided a lot of quality electronics for the price of the model, including a smoker. A plasticard plate was calculated to fit between the sides and is loosely deposited at the bottom of the hull to create a good base, and to avoid anything touching the torsion bars. Its removable to access the suspension under.


The colored pipes for the smoker are from my son's Lego parts collection, and connects to two holes on the back plate. The smoker works fine.


After installing the main electronics, it's always a pleasure to test everything and see that the various items that were created and tested months ago still work, such as the headlights or the gun recoil. After months of model manipulation during the construction, there could be issues. Loose wires can get pulled, something can get broken, drilled into or become loose or stiff for some reason.


The ability to put the gun in its travel lock position is very convenient, specially during transport or storage of the RC model, just like the real thing. The working DKLM gun travel lock is great.


Continuing on following post.

I like this picture very much for some reason.


Tail lights testing.


The plastic hub caps were superglued to the main wheels after some cleanup.


The 3D printed DKLM hub caps for the rollers are glued to the metal washers that i put inside and are independent of the turning rollers.


Overview of the running train.


That's it for now.

Regards, Louis

Lovely work, it’s a whole new tank really!

Metal tracks can be a pain, especially the cheap zinc alloy ones. Not sure who makes these ones, I’ll read back.

Ad Lav wrote: ↑Tue Aug 29, 2023 6:54 am Lovely work, it’s a whole new tank really!

Metal tracks can be a pain, especially the cheap zinc alloy ones. Not sure who makes these ones, I’ll read back.

Thanks, as far as I know, TONGDE makes these tracks. They are obviously made of soft metal that can break. They need to be protected against unfair treatment... Because the tank is really heavy at 12 pounds, I recommend removing the track recoil without even trying it with these tracks. The jolt from the control board to the gearbox almost makes the model fly. I was planning to give these tracks a full bluing treatment but I’ll do a limited test first to see how the metal reacts to the acid.

Hi everyone,

While setting up the electronics, i noticed for the first time that the control board supports a second machine gun. As the TONGDE TDC-X is very similar to the Heng Long 7.0 down to the writing of the instructions, the control board should recognize a LED connected to LED9 port and automatically enable it.


When the LED is connected to LED9, the D+A button should shoot the second machine gun instead of switching the MG sound on the primary machine gun. That's my understanding of it.


I installed a LED with fibre optics on the commander's cupola machine gun. Before permanently soldering the wires with a resistor, i did a connectivity test with the control board because the + and - indications on the control seemed suspicious. No matter what i do, the control board does not recognize that a LED is connected to LED9 port and always changes the machine gun sound on the primary MG instead of shooting the 2nd MG.

Maybe i am missing a step. If someone experienced the same problem and resolved it, i would really appreciate the information.


Now switching to the crew member.

I usually like to have at least one figure on my tanks. Operation Desert Storm was in 1991 so the specific uniform and helmet type of the time is required for a accurate display.


This is the 120mm (1/15) Verlinden 659 US TANKER DESERT STORM figure. It was often on liquidation sale at Spruebrothers in the past for about $10. This is one of the less desirable Verlinden figure. The pose and the facial expression of the soldier are funny looking and weird. But it's the only US Tank figure from Desert Storm period that i know, and i have one in stock. So, let's use it and modify as required.


The model contains the following parts. I only need the torso, head, arms, hands and the pistol. I will later add the fine microphone details to the helmet after painting.


The upper arms can be modified to fit the shoulders in a different position. They are actually perfect to show them resting on the cupola.


After some fine tuning, the tank commander figure is perfect.


The lips of the soldier were modified to make them less funny looking.


Continuing on following post