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Building an M-60 is not like building a Tiger for the X time. I am learning a lot about the M-60 during this build, sometimes through mistakes, but overall, its not going too bad. I think the frontal hull ERA with its complicated setup is not looking too bad. I have determined the ERA on the glacis is a bit too high. A process i will correct for the turret ERA.




The single ERA block on the left side is only attached with one bracket. Pictures show that the other 2 bolts holes are empty and the ERA block actually sits on top of the fire extinguisher handle cover. I will deal with it later.



Notice i had to remove the lifting hooks that were previously installed on the glacis. I determined that they were not positioned correctly in relation to the ERA blocks. The positioning holes coming with the model for the TONGDE hooks therefore needed to be filled and polished. I will re-install the hooks after i am finished with the glacis. This picture also show an issue on the armor surface that i will need to correct.


The model as it stands today.


Next step, some additional ERA blocks on the hull and the turret ERA.

Regards, Louis

A testament to your patience and skills. Another beauty nearing completion.

Estnische wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 2:24 am A testament to your patience and skills. Another beauty nearing completion.

I second that, looking fantastic. Your builds remind me to never undertake that kind of detail. They probably wouldn't let me have any tools in the padded room.

On May 3rd, Mr. Chef noted: "But damn some of you seem more like masochists to me than adventurous." Hey, Mr. Chef: I just became a masochist. Only I think it's addiction. I did hold out for six months.

Hi everyone,

This build is taking longer than anticipated. It's just that whenever i decide to spend a few hours on it, it takes me two weeks to recover.

Just got the TONGDE M-60 Metal upgrade kit from DKLM. Shipping express from Hong Kong costs a fortune but its really heavy with the metal tracks, metal wheels and metal gearbox, and i did not find any alternatives so no way around it if i wanted to finish this model.


First tasks was to strip everything from the lower hull.


Its when i removed the white plastic roundels acting as the ball bearings that i noticed they were all cracked, just by manipulating the model during the build. I did not even run it...


Plastic crap suspension arms are going strait to the garbage bin. Four of them broke just by manipulating the model.


The replacement metal wheels came in a different model, which made me realise the M-60 can have two different set of wheel types.


The type coming with the plastic kit seem to be of a much rarer as i could only find one picture of them in my referrences. But they do exist.


The metal suspension arms are a must.


The metal upgrade kit also comes with idler, metal adjuster and sprocket.


The metal tracks are much improved and more realistic compared to the plastic type, although the connectors are still not independent and painting the rubber pads in black will be a pain.


Also comes with four spare track links. No spares were provided with the basic model for the plastic tracks.


The new gearbox has steel gears.


Continuing on following post

The metal gearbox is exactly the same as the plastic one, just all metal.


The fit of the cover is less than exciting. You would not see this with other brands.


What i thought were metal rollers are actually the same plastic ones provided with the base kit, but painted silver. I do not understand the purpose of this. But boy was i happy to see those ball bearings in the bag, well at least they provided something.


They are a basic replacement for the plastic roundels. However, someone planning to operate the model in the field should think of replacing these with better waterproof and sealed ball bearings. As these are attached to the external arms and partly exposed, i doubt they will last long with the dust that will hit them on first contact.


Comparing the rollers, the same.


Because the metal suspension arm slots are tighter on the torsion bar end than the plastic suspension arms, all the torsion bars adjustment need to be redone from scratch. Now, each torsion bar almost need to have its both connectors loop aligned with barely any twist, other than the ones at the front that needs more torque to keep the first road wheel down, and at the rear to support the gearbox and also the track down.

This takes a long time to get the proper height and balance. For some reason, one side was always higher than the other. Much finetuning is required by twisting each torsion bar a bit to the left, a bit to the right, no a bit more to the left... like 20 times each in order to get a tank that is balanced. What i thought would take me 1 hour was a six hour ordeal.

First task was to install the suspension arms on both ends, with the gearbox in place for the weight and get the chassis flat.


Then the middle suspension and torsion bars were added, ensuring each participate with the lift, but without changing the level of the suspension. When a torsion bar was too strong or not enough, it needs to be removed, twisted a bit using two sets of pliers, and retested... about 20 times each, while ensuring nothing has changed on the overall balance.


The shaft did not perfectly fit the sprocket. This is the kind of situation where you do not want to force it in as you will never be able to remove it. I had to file the shaft to make it fit.


Continuing on following post

The original screws below for installing the plastic gearbox need to be replaced with M3 Hex bolts, they are not provided with the upgrade kit.


I ordered from DKLM a OKMO M-60A2 turret for a future build. With the kit come a set of 3D upgrade parts for the hull. I wish i had seen these before starting the build months ago. I asked Carson to sell me an extra set of these for this M-60A1 build. For the cost, this is a great upgrade for any M-60. I am therefore planning to reuse these on this build, even if it means throwing away some of the scratch built parts that took me hours to build. Although not a replacement for everything, some are better, and the rest will same me weeks of work.


Each need cleaning but these are great and look accurate.


Air filter covers. Nice.


Even comes with bin handles but the base need to be thinned dramatically.


Tow hook and gun travel lock.


The turret kit has a new back engine grill plate, so much better than the original.


Really happy not having to rebuild that back plate.


Continuing on following post

Showing the Okmo M-60A2 turret. You will see it again one day.


The new metal suspension, road wheels and tracks.


The new back plate. Note that the tail lights are not installed.

Because one of the TONGDE tracks base with 11 track link missing, i had to contact Carson of DKLM to fix this issue and send me the missing ones. Its something that could have beed avoided.


OKMO rollers, and hub cap for demo purposes.


TONGDE metal road wheel with plastic hub cap.


With upper hull.


TONGDE sprocket with OKMO hub cap.


Now, time to go back to the ERA. First section that is attacked is the one at the rear left. Details of the mountings below.


Continuing on following post

Back to the jig. Much analysis of references is required in order to get the basic design of the mounts under each ERA block group.


Parts made ready for assembly.


Mounts were pre-built.


For this first one, i decided to install the mount on the ERA back plate instead of mounting them separately. I will determine if this is something i want to continue with the others. Each rod will go into the turret, and will not be glued to the surface. This allows for easier positioning and adjustment of the ERA, and for the depth of the spacing.


There is always some compromise required depending on what is visible, and what is not.


It broke my heart to drill holes in my turret but no way around it if i want something solid, after much analysis and calculations for each rod.


Mounting of the first ERA block group on the turret.


Now you understand why the mounts are important, they are very visible because the M-60A1 ERA is spaced and not by a couple of inches, but sometimes in feet. Take note that i had to remove the rear basket for convenience during the installation of the ERA, but mostly to prevent any damage to it during manipulation of the turret.


The model as it stands today.


Now need another break...

Regards, Louis

Looking good. About the wheels...the ones with the ribs inside are the original type the M60 used made from aluminum hence the need for the ribs for strength. Later on, they decided to ditch the ribs and make the wheels from steel. A lot of M60 Slick (pre-A1, A2, and A3) had the ribbed wheels. As they were upgraded the wheels switched to the non-ribbed, but you can find either wheels on pretty much every variant of the M60 depending on how the vehicle started life. The ribbed wheels were seen a lot on the A1 and A2 versions. New production A3s got the new steel wheels, but some of the older upgraded A3s could have the ribbed wheels. A lot of the same rules go for the tracks as well, but the time the A3 came out the oval tracks were standard. You will see A2s with oval or chevron track. I choose to use the ribbed wheels and chevron track on my A2.

I'm sure my Starship won't be quite as detailed as yours in the future, but I'm happy with how it's turning out...