RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

PainlessWolf wrote:Good evening, Herman!
Drill those brass 'fenders' for mounting while they are off the vehicle. I learned this lesson reattaching a couple of the ones that came loose during shipping on Jack's Tiger. I figure as or if the others come loose while running, I will drill them and mount with Tamiya hex head screws until they are all down as such. Your Tiger is really coming along, Doc. ;o)
regards,
Painless

Yip, marked each one to match the holes I made in the hull as datums for what I thought then would be simple square mounting blocks.
Got the impact resistant gel super glue along the inside edges of each guard, placed all 4 pins into position & squeezed the lot to the hull.
Once the super glue dried, I ran a bead of PVA along the joint to add some substance to the mounting.
Had to go to the little girls end of year dance concert/show so no more done, plus I ran out of super glue

As for Tamiya screws, I took all of them out of that King Tiger I have to get the guards off it and tidy the outside up, and I swear I will never inflict such difficulty on myself if thats the way them things roll

Still to do the obligatory dings and deflections on the guards once the gel and PVA has completely cured.

PVA = Elmer's glue, correct?

philipat wrote:PVA = Elmer's glue, correct?

I believe so Sir, yes.
I have used an equivalent "school glue" in the past, but the stuff I use now is pure woodworking quality which seems to be a lot tougher.
It cures like a slightly flexible epoxy so it copes with a lot of impact.
Drys very clear and under the guards is invisible anyway.
Adds sort of a giant fillet weld of support underneath the triangulated joint area .
Time will tell of course but these things seem pretty tough.

I used a similar method to secure the single mudguard section to my Jagdtiger and it has copped a flogging- deep scratches and all with no loosening off.

HERMAN BIX wrote:

philipat wrote:PVA = Elmer's glue, correct?

I believe so Sir, yes.
I have used an equivalent "school glue" in the past, but the stuff I use now is pure woodworking quality which seems to be a lot tougher.
It cures like a slightly flexible epoxy so it copes with a lot of impact.
Drys very clear and under the guards is invisible anyway.
Adds sort of a giant fillet weld of support underneath the triangulated joint area .
Time will tell of course but these things seem pretty tough.

I used a similar method to secure the single mudguard section to my Jagdtiger and it has copped a flogging- deep scratches and all with no loosening off.

Awesome! Thanks. We have various versions of Elmer's glue - school and wood. I used the clear school glue with a little transparent green paint to make the glass effect in my PzIV. Handy stuff.

HERMAN BIX wrote:I have used an equivalent "school glue" in the past, but the stuff I use now is pure woodworking quality which seems to be a lot tougher.

Not the Clag, surely? One spoonful for you, one for the tank eh?

Raminator wrote:

HERMAN BIX wrote:I have used an equivalent "school glue" in the past, but the stuff I use now is pure woodworking quality which seems to be a lot tougher.

Not the Clag, surely? One spoonful for you, one for the tank eh?

LOL , I remember clag , flour and water. The hungry kids would eat it.

We used that stuff for paper mache !
Never heard it called Clag though.........

Clag...new term for me.

I think we used runny school glue (watered down) for paper mache. Still had the glue eaters. haha!

Herman,

I see you've got a little Alien DNA yourself.

Very nice work indeed, your zimmerit looks awesome! The Tiger is my favorite WW II German tank and you are doing a excellent job!!!

Barry

Arh yes good ole Clag glue who could forget that ...

Great work Mr B looking forward to seeing it finished.