RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Images as promised

The "hose" mod was made from electrical wire. Idea came from a contemporary image. Still think it might be a little oversized
The hatch wouldn't close firmly so a magnetic "lock" was made.
Light surround painted to look more realistic

The Leopard needs some TLC I would love to modernise, but not sure where to start. Any ideas welcome....
I replaced the mechanical forward/backwards switch with an electronic speed control about 15 years ago

Very nice mate
hopefully my Crusader arrives tomorrow so always looking for ideas

KeithT wrote: ↑Wed Sep 17, 2025 12:29 am The Leopard needs some TLC I would love to modernise, but not sure where to start. Any ideas welcome....
I replaced the mechanical forward/backwards switch with an electronic speed control about 15 years ago

Meter rat will be a jolly happy guy to help you out there I'm betting.

Nice tanks btw.

Nice. Love the early Leopard. Was my favourite tank when I was a kid

I too, love your Leopard 1. With one as complete and as original looking as yours, I would keep as is. Of course only you know the real condition. Most parts are available, but are costly, but I have found some tricks while doing mine to save a few pennies on the second one waiting in the wings.

Good Morning, Keith,
Thank you for the Pics of your Mod for the Aux Tank Hose. It is appreciated! My next Trick with this Tank will be to figure out a Stand for the (eventual) Tank Commander so he doesn't go flying out out of the Turret hatch on an outdoors Run or tangle up the turret mother board and wiring.
regards,
Painless

Hi All And sorry for the late reply. Yes I've decided to take advice and keep the Leopard 1 stock. It seems to run fine and mostly holds together. One more question....the only change I was gonna make was to fill the screw holes on the rear deck and replace with magnets. Should I do this or just for authenticity, keep the Philips head screws? Silly really but it's kept me awake wondering which course to take (
My Churchill has arrived so I'm just about to make a start. The airbrush arrives tomorrow so I intend to attempt some weathering & detailing. I'll (try to) start a new thread so everyone can see my beginner mistakes lol. I've already lowered the hull to remove the step at the front and close the gap at the rear. Funny how small things can really irritate!

KeithT wrote: ↑Mon Oct 13, 2025 3:38 am Hi All And sorry for the late reply. Yes I've decided to take advice and keep the Leopard 1 stock. It seems to run fine and mostly holds together. One more question....the only change I was gonna make was to fill the screw holes on the rear deck and replace with magnets. Should I do this or just for authenticity, keep the Philips head screws? Silly really but it's kept me awake wondering which course to take (
My Churchill has arrived so I'm just about to make a start.

I assume you have found the Leopard Thread? Some skilled work on show.

viewforum.php?f=138

If you have not already done it? I would remove the on/off switch, and fit proportional speed control.
Only you will know how authentic you wish to keep it. I installed magnets so I could remove the upper hull quickly to change batteries, and to remover the screws. But mine is now far from original.

Review the "painting and weathering" forum.
You may get some ideas from it.

What did you do to the hose on the Crusader 3

Found it now ...wow what a lot of Leopards. Plenty of ideas there & yes I installed a variable spred unit a while ago. Those screw heads are going

Regarding the hose on the Crusader...it was consigned to the parts bin. I found a contemporary photo and looks like the auxiliary fuel tank was connected using regular rigid fuel line painted same colour as the tank. I used electrical wire as it maintains its shape