RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Jofaur86 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 25, 2024 6:30 pm OK, personally I was just trying to help? with simple solutions? now it's up to you to see and do according to your choice

I for one am grateful for your advice
Always better to have multiple solutions. Giving the person asking the question a choice to go with whatever is easier in their mind.

Believe it or not, there are slot car hand controllers that use a bank of diodes. Yet most people go with the devil they know

I know Jofaur86, you are very helpfull, and i do appreciate your replies, but im really too much of a nob to understand all of your electronics-advice especially when i need to translate everything to dutch, and than still i know way too little about electronics, i need a youtube video to explain me how my multimeter works, and than still i cant get it to work how i think it should (i wanted to messure the current difference between the two connections on the TK7.0 board, but i couldnt get more than 5 and 5,25 (i guess volt) but that wouldnt explain the motor going 3 times as fast in my logic)
So please your advice is welcome, im here to learn afterall.

/peace

Casper

OK, look on YouTube, there are videos "how to use a multimeter" for our passion? we need the direct current function, Ohmeter, Ammeter, (or Milli Ammeter) and continuity (tests cable continuity without voltage)
Afterwards there are different values ​​indicated depending on the functions:
Voltage in volts, intensity in ampere or milli ampere, and resistance in Ohms
the function, representing a diode and small waves, is the continuity (power off) if you put the two keys together, the multimeter must emit Beep, Beep continuously. Here is the operating principle, roughly. It is true, what seems easy to me? is not necessarily for a novice So excuse me

On the other hand, you should know that if the tension is reduced? fixed or variable resistance, the motor will have less torque (power) and is also more likely to rotate, from a certain threshold, therefore less smoke? at the output?

Thats why i wanted a potentiometer to test at which setting the performance would be acceptable, i did in fact think of safety, ive ordered another switch so that i can turn the smoke on or off using it, i plan to open-up the Panthers engine deck hatch to acces the switch there.

Thx for the drawing, it helps i guess i just need to familiarize myself with it more

Jaren geleden ook ik heb moeten leren omgaan met een multimeter. (Zulke dingen leer je niet als je voor een Ph.D. studeert.) Hier zijn twee boeken waarmee je zou kunnen beginnen en een paar YouTube-video's, de laatste helaas in het Engels.

Years ago, I, too, had to learn how to use a multimeter. (One is not taught such useful things when studying for a Ph.D. ) Here are two books with which you might begin and some YouTube videos, the latter, alas, in English.

https://www.amazon.com.be/-/nl/William- ... uage=nl_BE
https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/how-to-use- ... 063404616/

https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-u ... 90d6f3ffa5
https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-use-a- ... er-5194980
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zbgO06R_JM
https://www.google.com/search?as_q=&as_ ... B5I,st:398

Omg back to school for me hahaha, thanks!

Jofaur86 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 25, 2024 8:44 pm …at the output?

So ive been thinking…
So the HL7.0 board gives variable power to the driving motors right?

What if: i would tap the power of one of the driving motors and connect the Smoke motor in series with it. (Perhaps with potmeter only in the smoke motor circuit to prevent if from going too fast, as the driving motors get a lof of the power)?

I would lose the passive smoke but would have a smoke reaction to throttle from one of the driving motors. (I dont see a way of using both driving motors as input, but perhaps you do?)

Than i will have to keep in mind that the heating of the smoke-system wont be disabled and will keep heating without a motor to suck the heat away for smoke right?

I havent tested it yet, but i presume the heating is turned off when use “turn off smoke” from the remote…

So that will be another thing to consider for the bow MG, when activating it (by turning the smoke on) am i turning the heater on aswell, and if so no heater = no smoke.

I might need to give this more thought

Hmmm, wouldnt work either, as for driving forwards or backwards the polarization would switch, and wouldnt work with the smoke motor.

I guess i just need to uograde to 7.1 for mu creative ideas…

Mindstorm wrote: ↑Wed Sep 25, 2024 11:25 pm Omg back to school for me hahaha, thanks!

Yes, back to school, but there is no age to learn, and Her Professor has provided few useful links
Personally, I learned a long time ago and multimeters had needles? enormous progress has been made since then, there are even some where there are no more switches to turn, it is the device itself which guesses everything