NEWB - help with Heng Long 1/24 tank treads

[modler]

Well, you would think that the "Tracks" are the problem and its true they could be better but there is not much you can do about the Track design. You can however change the MAX POWER output to the Tracks or "Tuning" the power output based on personal preferences. The "one power output size fits all" is what we have here which is suitable for general applications like outdoor pavement or hard packed soil and such. Carpet is a problem for these 1/24 HL Tanks as it is for most other Tanks in this and smaller scales in general. It is a universal problem.

Here is another mod that works good but requires the proper batteries and connectors. I will present it here for information purposes.

Shown below is a Variable Voltage 1-6 cell kit that I use to find the optimal voltage to use in a application.

3 cells = 1s Lipo
4-6 cells = 2s Lipo

For best results on ANY 1/24 HL Tank, The battery box needs to be enlarged. I removed the floor of the battery box with a soldering iron plastic cutting tip to allow larger batteries with adapters and such to easily fit the battery area.

[modler]

I just updated 3 of my HL Battle Tanks with new circuit boards. I also did a diode current reduction mod to the three shown in the picture below. Also the M1AI Has the mechanical tracking spring clutch removed. See the video below for the result with a 2s Lipo.


Here is a M1A1 video with all the mods and new 2s lipo with new circuit board.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-CCnVlz8pU

[modler]

I am back with more info on Tank treads for these 1\24 HL Tanks. The best solution at this point is to soften the abrupt start forward power from the twin motors. This is exasperated by the tracking lock spring diff in the motor housing. The Diff makes the Tank track strait when going forward. Most R\C tanks in the past have L\R tracking drift issues so the HL 1/24 solved this problem with the spring lock differential gearbox. The downside is it takes more power to now steer left and right and results in jerking the tracks can can cause them the fail.
I have shown a "staple mod" in this thread that helps with the weak point of the tracks pin connector. This mod will greatly extend the track life. Another thing to do is tone the power down a notch with a "Diode mod" You can use up to 3 Schottky Diodes in series to damper the power from the 2s lipo. This mod also makes the Tank operate is a more scale manner with less jerking and even improves the proportional speed throttle function.

Spring diff lock:

The ultimate solution is to remove the "spring diff" in the motor housing. This along with the already mentioned "Track staple, Diode mods" will make this HL 1/24 perform must smoother and more realistic and radically improve track life.

I just ordered 2 spare motor housings from ebay and will feature a "spring diff" removal here in the near future

Voltage alarm:

Also I will begin discussion on a 2s lipo voltage alarm mod. If you overrun the 2s1800 mAH Lipo, the battery will be damaged and will have less capacity each time this happens. The Tank circuit board does have a LVC (low voltage cut) but by the time that hits battery damage may already have occured. It might not be noticeable right away but the battery eventually will loose performance every time this LVC occurs. with a Low voltage alarm set to the right voltage, this damage will not occur. I have lipos of this size still working after 17 years

This mod can be done without soldering but requires device installation\removal each session. You basically open the battery hatch and plug it in the lipo balancing 3 pin connector and verify the voltage alarm setting by pushing a button a few times then position everything so that the battery hatch can be closed so it's pretty easy using this method of operation. Works best if the battery box has been opened up a bit with some plastic trimming as the battery box was initially designed for a 6-8 cell Nicad pack and is a tight fit for the large 2s 1800mAh lipo let alone any "diode or Low voltage alarm mods and such.

Advance Alarm mod involves some wiring mods and or a external reset and power disconnect switch. Once the Voltage alarm setpoint is reached, it will continue the loud audible alarm until power is switched off or unplugged from the 3 pin lipo charge connector.

Another method is to mod the wing so that the Tank power switch is used to shut the alarm down without having to open the battery box.
more on this later.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Unfortuantely, joelspangler has not been logged in since December. But I always check out your electronic wizardry. Of course, I don't understand most of it, but I am easy to impress. I see that the 1/24 tanks have enclosed motors: I wish the 1/16 ones all came that way, albeit with easy means to change out motors. That's asking a lot, I suppose. I did notice the four lights atop the 1/24 turrets: ICC clearance lights?

[modler]

Unfortuantely, joelspangler has not been logged in since December. But I always check out your electronic wizardry. Of course, I don't understand most of it, but I am easy to impress. I see that the 1/24 tanks have enclosed motors: I wish the 1/16 ones all came that way, albeit with easy means to change out motors. That's asking a lot, I suppose. I did notice the four lights atop the 1/24 turrets: ICC clearance lights?

That is the I\R battle score system display. Each time the opponent Tank scores a hit, a light goes out. the Tanks does a wiggle as well and a explosion sound is heard.

When all four go out you are defeated! Then the Tank times out during the shaming period of losing the battle.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

I thought that the lights might serve battle purposes. In nearly 20 twenty years, I have not once trued an IR battle, for there are no others around here and I would likely lose in fewer than 30 seconds. I DO wish all my tanks had barrel recoil, flash, and smoke.

[modler]

I thought that the lights might serve battle purposes. In nearly 20 twenty years, I have not once trued an IR battle, for there are no others around here and I would likely lose in fewer than 30 seconds. I DO wish all my tanks had barrel recoil, flash, and smoke.

I have several sets of IR battle Tanks. Unfortunately, no one to battle with. Well except one, my beautiful wife. She plays to win and often does.

Oh, back to the topic at hand, I got two new 1/24 power units. I will be doing the "slip clutch remove" mod. These 1/24 HL Tanks work much better with this mod. I will be doing it here with pictures soon.

[modler]

I finally got this JSDF Type 90 Tank (2010 vintage) rebuilt with new gearbox and more. This Tank originally was a 6mm plastic BB gun on Tracks and nothing more. It is now IR battle ready plus still shoots 6mm BB.

I have figured out that only the old style 27 mHz Tanks had the diff lock. The newer gearboxes do not have them. I took both of the new ones apart and they don't have them. The old style 27 mHz Tanks had no tracking adjustment so that is why they had a diff lock. This would keep the Tank tracking straight even if there was a small difference in the motors output L vs R. On the newer models, There is tracking adjust for forward and reverse! Nice improvement methinks.

I have not added the 4 LED scoring display and may not need to on this model. I have two that have been converted like this. The other is a M! Abrams. The dual metal antenna are a vestige of its 27 mHz heritage

Latest battle Tank build Tutorial video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7rKcg0S-Ec

[modler]

I am working and testing the HL 1/24 Tanks. I have four of these. I figured out today there is a difference in the suspension from the older Tanks. In running them on my indoor track I noticed the older 2 Tanks require less power to turn and will run on a l nimh 4 cell battery and still turn well and have plenty of power and will run a good while. Meanwhile the newer Tanks with the 4 cell battery struggle with turning and do not run very long on the 4 cell battery. So what is the difference?

Answer: The front and rear road wheels are raised up higher than the center four road wheels. I recently did a similar mod to the HL 1/30 Pershing and it works way better. viewtopic.php?t=37218

The problem with the 1/24 and 1/30 HL Tanks is that they have RUBBER tracks. These tracks get too much traction when turning L/R on must smooth surfaces and carpet. The Tanks have enough power to overcome this but it causes the Tank to rapidly discharge the battery and stress the tracks and gearbox. One or both will likely prematurely fail. Gearbox failure starts when internal gear slippage starts to occur. The earlier (2010) Tanks don't have these problems as they have a smaller track footprint length wise. This difference can be seen in a side by side comparison. (see below)

After making this mod to my new HL 1/24 M1 abrams, the Tank with the 2s lipo performs very well and is smooth in the turns and turns in place effortlessly. No more jerkiness and is smooth like the earlier models from 2010. I think it was a mistake to change the road wheel height in the newer Tanks. Yes it may look better seeing all the road wheels tough the ground equally like on a real Tank but because of the rubber tracks,The Tank performs poorly brand new out of the box on some smooth surfaces or carpet. Outside off road, the problem is less noticeable.

There are a few ways to do this mod. The best is to make the outer road wheels adjustable via a tiny self tapping screw. That way the Tank can be set or "tuned" to personal preference based on the surface it is operated on.

In testing, I tried a 4 and 5 cell nimh battery in the newer modified Tank. So even with the road wheel mod, it takes 5 cells in the new Tank to equal the performance of the the old Tank with 4 cells. I think this difference is due to the gearbox difference old vs new. Will discuss that in another post but for now, I recommend raising the outer road wheels up 3-5 mm. This mod decreases the track footprint just enough to make the Tank more responsive in turns and increases run time and prolongs life of the drivetrain and tracks.

NOTE.. Both OLD and NEW Tanks are using the same radio gear. The old radio gear is useless IMO. Oh, by the way, The "OLD" Tanks used a 8 cell nimh battery and were heavier as a result. That 8 cell Pack is voltage equivalent to a 3 cell lipo! Even with all that, the range was poor in the old radio systems but they had a special feature. Programmable "run program" or in todays world, "programmable autonomous run mode.