RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I've seen a charger that does two packs but for safety l'd invest in three good chargers or just organise some spare packs and precharge them. I use several types but my favoured one is the iMax B6AC (as pictured above) which is great value.

One thing worth noting is that every Tank I have bought comes with a Tamiya Connector for the battery,
Aside from the arguement that the Tamiya connector is not particularly good for the job most chargers either do not come with a choice of connectors and if they do they rarely include a Tamiya connector,Do keep that in mind when checking out your choice of which charger is best for you.
Also just to confuse the issue further Tamiya connectors come in two sizes,
You will need the bigger of them.
Adaptors for your battery's are readily available on E-Bay.

Just to clarify, Tamiya connectors do a good job for low amp uses. That makes them fine for RC tanks. For high current flow uses, as in for example RC car racing, Dean's or 'barrel' connectors are favoured. When the silver solder that holds your motor leads on the end bell melts, you know you are dealing with high currents!

All the better chargers provide a selection of charging leads with various connectors.

General Jumbo01 wrote:Just to clarify, Tamiya connectors do a good job for low amp uses. That makes them fine for RC tanks. For high current flow uses, as in for example RC car racing, Dean's or 'barrel' connectors are favoured. When the silver solder that holds your motor leads on the end bell melts, you know you are dealing with high currents!

All the better chargers provide a selection of charging leads with various connectors.

A couple of tamiya conectors burnt inside of my tank. Those conectors are designed for 10A or lower.

If a tamiya-mabuchi motor stalls, it takes 18A.
My smoke generator takes another A.
Add tons of other motors, servos, leds, flash unit spesker and more, and disaster can happen, like happened to me.

hi there i have a SKYRC D100V2 which lets you charge two different batterys at the same time also is bluetooth and has a scan and go for labels on batts and has voice guide and can also Discharge as well cost me £90 but is a great tool and comes with balange boards and leads

Hello Jimster,Rad,
Thanks for the info and the videos but I have a last question ? For the load we use the Lipos balancing plug ??

hi yes every lipo has a balance lead and plugs into a balance board then connect your battery lead to your charger lead ie deans to deans

Rad_Schuhart wrote:

General Jumbo01 wrote:Just to clarify, Tamiya connectors do a good job for low amp uses. That makes them fine for RC tanks. For high current flow uses, as in for example RC car racing, Dean's or 'barrel' connectors are favoured. When the silver solder that holds your motor leads on the end bell melts, you know you are dealing with high currents!

All the better chargers provide a selection of charging leads with various connectors.

A couple of tamiya conectors burnt inside of my tank. Those conectors are designed for 10A or lower.

If a tamiya-mabuchi motor stalls, it takes 18A.
My smoke generator takes another A.
Add tons of other motors, servos, leds, flash unit spesker and more, and disaster can happen, like happened to me.

Yes, if units within the tank go faulty then all sorts of bits could go bang but whilst a Tamiya plug may melt the motor would already be on fire maybe? Manufacturers spec their components to perform to support the other components as designed. In this instance, for example, if you had fitted a higher spec plug that maintained a current flow, the damage to the tanks components may have been far greater. You can't win!

General Jumbo01 wrote:

Rad_Schuhart wrote:

General Jumbo01 wrote:Just to clarify, Tamiya connectors do a good job for low amp uses. That makes them fine for RC tanks. For high current flow uses, as in for example RC car racing, Dean's or 'barrel' connectors are favoured. When the silver solder that holds your motor leads on the end bell melts, you know you are dealing with high currents!

All the better chargers provide a selection of charging leads with various connectors.

A couple of tamiya conectors burnt inside of my tank. Those conectors are designed for 10A or lower.

If a tamiya-mabuchi motor stalls, it takes 18A.
My smoke generator takes another A.
Add tons of other motors, servos, leds, flash unit spesker and more, and disaster can happen, like happened to me.

Yes, if units within the tank go faulty then all sorts of bits could go bang but whilst a Tamiya plug may melt the motor would already be on fire maybe? Manufacturers spec their components to perform to support the other components as designed. In this instance, for example, if you had fitted a higher spec plug that maintained a current flow, the damage to the tanks components may have been far greater. You can't win!

Nothing went faulty, a stick or a stone in the track and you have the motor stalling and demanding 18A, setting the plug on fire.

The tamiya MFU is rated for 30A. So that is 20A more than what the tamiya plug allows you and more than enough for any issues you might have. If I had fitted a better plug, like an XT60 (rated 60A) nothing would have happened, still 12A under the MFU limit.

Only God knows why they stick to their obsolete 1970s plug...

Maybe the motor would have gone up in flames next?? Okay, it's a lottery and maybe the answer is to fit a low amp fuse in the battery line. However, l fully agree about the generally cheap characteristics of the Tamiya plugs and pre-tanks l always fitted barrels. I really don't like Dean's though. A real finger nail breaker!