RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I started making the top and longest leaf spring. The first one was ok so I thought i'd better make another for testing purposes. The Spring on the left is less than perfect but it doesn't matter. I heated it to cherry red and then quenched it in cold water. I'll test the spring in it at some point but at least I now have one Spring I can show someone to get it made?

I think I was taught that if you want to retain the spring in steel after it has been heated that it should be cooled in oil not water,
But what do I know

A simple case of what i had to hand. The water transfers heat faster and has more of a chance of fracturing heated metal. Oil cools at a slower rate and gives a nice finish. As this piece is more of a template, less importance is given to the finish.

Cooking oil also works as an alternative to industrial oil. Plus the bonus of not stinking as bad !
Mr gunner is correct when saying keep the object moving thru the cooling medium to avoid gasses expanding and causeing uneven quenching. Slow movement is best.
Have you tried hacksaw blades ?
They have a wide range of tempers and a convenient hole in each end.
The tooth profile can be ground off.
Also power hacksaw blades. I’m sure most engineers shops have worn out ones if you ask them to keep them for you.
New ones are always the preference but can be expensive.

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Thank you Herman. Water is cheaper

Personally, if you have any way of grinding broken hacksaw or machine saw blades, they make fantastic scrapers, knife blades, carving tools etc.

Best head gasket scraper i ever had is a big power saw blade with a lump of cork and loads of tape on one end !

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Thank you Herman. Water is cheaper

Personally, if you have any way of grinding broken hacksaw or machine saw blades, they make fantastic scrapers, knife blades, carving tools etc.

I'd never thought to go to an engineering firm and ask for worn out blades. At least that is an option if they can't get 1mm spring steel.

I would look at hand hacksaw blades of the very flexible grade. NOT the blue ones.
Orange or red but you can find bi-metal versions that have a different make up along the tooth edge.
I have an orange blade in a handsaw that can easily bend and return straight.
Has a 4mm hole in each end.
Might be a tad narrow though at 1/2" or 12.7mm so could be the quest continues.

I have been looking at Bow Saw Blades but I don't really have the ability to machine anything. I really need a work shop, I have most of the tools I need already but I think i'll probably get in touch with some local engineering firms as i'm going to need the swing arms manufacturing.

I have been wondering the same thing about the springs for suspension. Then yesterday I got a FOA newsletter email and they are making some for it.

Looks good, they have a couple of kits available I just may have to pick one up.
I saw your build post and think the Spyker motor mounts are the way to go


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Markocaster wrote:I have been wondering the same thing about the springs for suspension. Then yesterday I got a FOA newsletter email and they are making some for it.

Looks good, they have a couple of kits available I just may have to pick one up.
I saw your build post and think the Spyker motor mounts are the way to go


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Did you also notice they are going to make a metal tub to reinforce the lower hull? Their Sherman tub is about $109, so worth the cost.