RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

& it starts, I have just bought a Tiger 1. It's a very basic model but definitely upgradable. I'm looking at a cheap Panzer IV as i'm thinking about transferring over all the upgrade parts. At the very least I can use it for comparison with the Tank I have at the moment.

My Tiger Tank has arrived and it's much more fun than my Panzer IV and shows the lack of range my Panzer IV has. However i've found an upgrade package so i'll be able to save my Panzer IV (My precious).
I charged up the Tigers battery and took it to the Beach. It operated as it should and did very well on the loose sand, only grounding twice. I took it up a Sandhill without a problem. I gave it a quick run round once i got home to shake the loose sand off it and i'll clean the remaining sand later. I already have a load of metal upgrade parts coming for both Tanks. This is slightly addictive?

I was very pleasantly surprised how the Tank operated on soft sand, it climbed Sand hills quite easily. You may notice I haven't fitted any accessories yet. This is because I want to fit accurate headlights & rear lights & Zimmeret sheets before painting. I also intend fitting a metal chassis & turret.

rolling-thunder wrote:I was very pleasantly surprised how the Tank operated on soft sand, it climbed Sand hills quite easily. You may notice I haven't fitted any accessories yet. This is because I want to fit accurate headlights & rear lights & Zimmeret sheets before painting. I also intend fitting a metal chassis & turret.

If you're going to perform cosmetic surgery on your new found plastic friend (as many of us do.. ) I'd suggest fitting a kit like this one, to speed access to the innards up. This was designed for a Taigen Tiger 1, but it will fit the HL version. They're obtainable from rctank.de .. and elsewhere.
https://www.rctank.de/TIGER-I_9 It's fairly inexpensive, and a great labour saving device.

Hi RT, Your photograph shows two classic Heng Long faults, both of which can be resolved with a little work,
First yet another problem with a Heng Long Cupola,
It is mounted wrongly,
To fix it you need a pen knife blade and a small file and a dab of superglue.
The cupola hatch hinge should be at the 20 to 8 position as viewed on a clock face, this will bring the viewing slit looking directly forward.
The cupola is lightly glued in position,
To remove it slide the blade into a viewing slit and gently I SAID GENTLY work the blade lifting and lowering then place the blade in the opposite viewing slit and do the same you will hear a cracking noise ,Don't panic it is the glue failing.
lift the cupola off the turret ,You will see a locating knob on the underside of the cupola and a matching slot on the Cupola mounting ring, Both the knob and the slot are in the WRONG PLACE,
File down the knob flush with the base of the cupola and remount it in the correct position, when you are happy dab a little glue on the base of the cupola and fix it in place,
You can leave it unglued if you wish it will not readily fall off.

The other job is a little more taxing but patience will win the day.
You will need a craft knife and a small halfmoon file.
There are two aerial stowage tubes on Heng Long , Torro and Taigen Tiger 1s, there should only be one.
The one to remove is on the left rear side along the engine bay as you look forward.
Gently work the craft knife along the length of the faux stowage tube, if you are lucky it will simply peel off in one piece but you may need to use the file,
You should end up with a scalloped curve where the aerial stowage tube had been.
This is a job that rewards you more the less force you put into it.
Good luck.
Shaun.

43rdRecceReg wrote:

rolling-thunder wrote:I was very pleasantly surprised how the Tank operated on soft sand, it climbed Sand hills quite easily. You may notice I haven't fitted any accessories yet. This is because I want to fit accurate headlights & rear lights & Zimmeret sheets before painting. I also intend fitting a metal chassis & turret.

If you're going to perform cosmetic surgery on your new found plastic friend (as many of us do.. ) I'd suggest fitting a kit like this one, to speed access to the innards up. This was designed for a Taigen Tiger 1, but it will fit the HL version.

Tiger 1 locking system.jpeg

They're obtainable from rctank.de .. and elsewhere.
https://www.rctank.de/TIGER-I_9 It's fairly inexpensive, and a great labour saving device.

I am looking t buying these items eventually https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 76668.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 11453.html
would the locking mechanism fit a Panzer IV as well? I intend upgrading that as well.
Do you have any pictures of the Tiger 1 lock system in place?

Before you splash out on a metal upper hull, you may like to think of the implications. If you want to do any work on it, plastic i very much easier to work with. You may also like to search the forum for people's experience with Mato, which, to say the least, are varied..

The Taigen Panzer 4 Metal hull comes with a quick release BUT if you intend to fit metal engine hatches to a Heng Long PZ4 then you have to remove the two rearmost securing posts which precludes the use of the quick release,
I favour Magnets to secure the Body to the Hull of almost all my Tanks.
I use Countersunk Neo-dymion Magnets which can be firmly located by screwing them in place,
Glue will fail if you try that method to hold the magnets in position.
www.first4magnets.com
Shaun.

rolling-thunder wrote:

43rdRecceReg wrote:

rolling-thunder wrote:I was very pleasantly surprised how the Tank operated on soft sand, it climbed Sand hills quite easily. You may notice I haven't fitted any accessories yet. This is because I want to fit accurate headlights & rear lights & Zimmeret sheets before painting. I also intend fitting a metal chassis & turret.

If you're going to perform cosmetic surgery on your new found plastic friend (as many of us do.. ) I'd suggest fitting a kit like this one, to speed access to the innards up. This was designed for a Taigen Tiger 1, but it will fit the HL version.

The attachment Tiger 1 locking system.jpeg is no longer available

They're obtainable from rctank.de .. and elsewhere.
https://www.rctank.de/TIGER-I_9 It's fairly inexpensive, and a great labour saving device.

I am looking t buying these items eventually https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 76668.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 11453.html
would the locking mechanism fit a Panzer IV as well? I intend upgrading that as well.
Do you have any pictures of the Tiger 1 lock system in place?

Re: the locking system in situ, here'a pic I took a couple of years ago. It's not as detailed as I'd like. Still, you can see the locking mechanism in place directly behind the speaker, in the lower hull. Two small triangular metal locking anchors are fitted on
the captive plastic standoffs on the Upper Hull (opposite). The rectangular locking catch for the front glacis plate is not present here, as the Taigen model has a built in lug to lock the front of the body, and doesn't need it. The rectangular plate in the kit is for HL and entry level Taigen Tigers. Good luck.

jarndice wrote:Hi RT, Your photograph shows two classic Heng Long faults, both of which can be resolved with a little work,
First yet another problem with a Heng Long Cupola,
It is mounted wrongly,
To fix it you need a pen knife blade and a small file and a dab of superglue.
The cupola hatch hinge should be at the 20 to 8 position as viewed on a clock face, this will bring the viewing slit looking directly forward.
The cupola is lightly glued in position,
To remove it slide the blade into a viewing slit and gently I SAID GENTLY work the blade lifting and lowering then place the blade in the opposite viewing slit and do the same you will hear a cracking noise ,Don't panic it is the glue failing.
lift the cupola off the turret ,You will see a locating knob on the underside of the cupola and a matching slot on the Cupola mounting ring, Both the knob and the slot are in the WRONG PLACE,
File down the knob flush with the base of the cupola and remount it in the correct position, when you are happy dab a little glue on the base of the cupola and fix it in place,
You can leave it unglued if you wish it will not readily fall off.

The other job is a little more taxing but patience will win the day.
You will need a craft knife and a small halfmoon file.
There are two aerial stowage tubes on Heng Long , Torro and Taigen Tiger 1s, there should only be one.
The one to remove is on the left rear side along the engine bay as you look forward.
Gently work the craft knife along the length of the faux stowage tube, if you are lucky it will simply peel off in one piece but you may need to use the file,
You should end up with a scalloped curve where the aerial stowage tube had been.
This is a job that rewards you more the less force you put into it.
Good luck.
Shaun.

D you have pictures of the Aerial stowage tube, I can't seem to find anything that matches your description.