RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Well, here's the hull newly primed and painted in Dunkelgelb. I used Tamiya rattle cans at this stage instead of getting my airbrush out. Their cans are pricey, and disappointingly small. Still, they work perfectly well after a good shake. Optimal spray distance is around 8 inches. Now it's time to start bonding bits onto the rear panel. I used Tamiya cement here for a change. Normally, I use Revell Contacta Pro. Contacta Pro has a very useful needle type dispensing system, and is great for accurate delivery into tight spots.
Just an observation at this point. Where the metal hull smacks of durability, precision and strength..the other major plastic components, the Upper Hull and the Turret, are surprisingly thin and flexible compared with those in my Torro Pro (Metal edition) King Tiger. Being new to Tamiya Full-Option kits, I've no way of knowing whether Tamiya are economising with the plastic and ABS bits, but I thought the KT would be far more robust that it appears to be. Only time will tell, I suppose, how to will handle outdoor use (and abuse!) but it does appear to be fragile

Good start!

Got to love a good King Tiger.

Here I've fitted the parts to the rear panel, and after fitting it to the hull (bit fiddly as it's held in by 5 captive nuts with screws), I began attaching the wheel, sprocket and idler assemblies. One thing to note is that many of the metal parts require a small drop of thread lock. All the set screws for the suspension housings and torsion bar stays need threadlock.
Before fitting the rear panel, though, it was necessary to fit Tamiya's track tensioner. Now that was a bit tricky. The system reminded me of fitting fiddly return springs in car drum brakes. I have to say, it doesn't inspire me with great confidence.. This is one component I shall probably upgrade in the not too distant future. I won't dwell on the methods used to assemble the Idler, Sprocket, and Wheel assemblies except to say that while the Idler and Sprockets are straightforward, you need three hands for the wheels!
Look: Apart from ensuring the Tamiya grease is in place on the axles, you need to be able to hold the wheel components in an offset configuration, (such that a gap appears between the back to back metal discs), while adding fixing screws from the rear. Prestidigitrists used to shuffling playing cards would have an advantage here. Frustratingly, at my first attempt, the road wheel hub containing the greased bearing broke free from the rim and the whole assembly ended up on the floor. Although the wheel assembly is made of styrene, I found ordinary cement wasn't strong enough to bond the hub to the outer Rim, so I ended up using ABS cement.

Schumo upgraded idler system is well worth the money.

Hi 43rd. I dont want to down you, or start another Tamiya VS all Fight, but just some tips from a Tamiya King Tiger owner to a Tamiya king tiger owner:

That idler kit that does not inspire confidence is a piece of shit, but you have a couple of alternatives, you can install the Daryl Turner system (pricey, but David Turner stuff is AWESOME). That is rock solid and works with springs too. I have not seen it in real life, but people speaks marvels about it. The second alternative are the Henntek track tensioners. I have installed one and its bulletproof too, but it has no springs. The third option is to throw away those small springs and replace them with putty. (Not tested by me, but I think Tom Hugil did it)

As you have mentioned, the plastic is thin and fragile, but I am afraid the aluminium lower hull is not much better. A gearbox brace can do marvels on your tank.
The third fragility problem you will find, are the tracks. As you can see them are the "Open pin" mode. That means in the tracks you can see the entire pin, and one link is linked to the other just with a couple of milimeters of plastic. As you can imagine it does not last long, and a lot of people breaks them on the first run.

I considered buying metal tracks, but they are really expensive (still can digest how some pot metal tracks are more expensive than my 1000cc Honda motorbike chain, lol) and also it seems that with the metal tracks is mandatory to do the mods I told you (idler and gearbox brace) and also to add some more mods to prevent hull flex. But if you want metal tracks you need to buy the impact ones, or the kenny kong. Mato, Taigen and Heng long ones are not compatible. It seems the "Matorro" ones are compatible too, but not sure about it.

Im sorry, but that's what it is...

Keep on going with your build, and try to install working lights on the tank. I put a lot of extras on it: Headlight (with warm white led!, not xenon white!), brake light, notek, turret searchlight and 3 working machine guns. With lights your tank will look alive!

Ad Lav wrote:Schumo upgraded idler system is well worth the money.

I'll certainly check that out, Adam, and thanks for the tip I've come across some of your contributions on the Tamiya club site, I know you have a wide experience of Tamiya products to fall back on.

Rad_Schuhart wrote:Hi 43rd. I dont want to down you, or start another Tamiya VS all Fight, but just some tips from a Tamiya King Tiger owner to a Tamiya king tiger owner:

That idler kit that does not inspire confidence is a piece of shit, but you have a couple of alternatives, you can install the Daryl Turner system (pricey, but David Turner stuff is AWESOME). That is rock solid and works with springs too. I have not seen it in real life, but people speaks marvels about it. The second alternative are the Henntek track tensioners. I have installed one and its bulletproof too, but it has no springs. The third option is to throw away those small springs and replace them with putty. (Not tested by me, but I think Tom Hugil did it)

As you have mentioned, the plastic is thin and fragile, but I am afraid the aluminium lower hull is not much better. A gearbox brace can do marvels on your tank.
The third fragility problem you will find, are the tracks. As you can see them are the "Open pin" mode. That means in the tracks you can see the entire pin, and one link is linked to the other just with a couple of milimeters of plastic. As you can imagine it does not last long, and a lot of people breaks them on the first run.

I considered buying metal tracks, but they are really expensive (still can digest how some pot metal tracks are more expensive than my 1000cc Honda motorbike chain, lol) and also it seems that with the metal tracks is mandatory to do the mods I told you (idler and gearbox brace) and also to add some more mods to prevent hull flex. But if you want metal tracks you need to buy the impact ones, or the kenny kong. Mato, Taigen and Heng long ones are not compatible. It seems the "Matorro" ones are compatible too, but not sure about it.

Im sorry, but that's what it is...

Keep on going with your build, and try to install working lights on the tank. I put a lot of extras on it: Headlight (with warm white led!, not xenon white!), brake light, notek, turret searchlight and 3 working machine guns. With lights your tank will look alive!

Thanks for the input, Rad- all observations and caveats duly noted! As i said at the outset, though, I wanted to build the KT in its standard format before launching into the inevitable upgrade (and additional expense) spiral. The Cromwell bill got ever longer..
and I don't want this going OTT..not yet anyway.

Well, the good thing about the upgrades I mentioned, is that you can add them anytime very easily and fast.

And ah! I almost forgot. Most people replaces the elevation arm for a metal one (it seems the plastic one breaks easily when using the metal barrel) I bought a metal arm (like 4 euros) but I have not instaled yet. I guess I will install it once I break the stock plastic one... Im just telling it in case you buy any of the other upgrades, for combining shipping purposes. Every penny counts! lol.

Good morning, 43rdR&R,
I'm following your build quietly. I know that you have the patience to over come any of this _early_ Tamiya kits inconsistencies Here is a link to a page where the fellow super detailed his Tamiya KT. Just a few of these options along with the lights that RS mentioned will really bring your tank to life: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/kingt ... _frame.htm
regards,
Painless

Rad_Schuhart wrote:Well, the good thing about the upgrades I mentioned, is that you can add them anytime very easily and fast.

And ah! I almost forgot. Most people replaces the elevation arm for a metal one (it seems the plastic one breaks easily when using the metal barrel) I bought a metal arm (like 4 euros) but I have not instaled yet. I guess I will install it once I break the stock plastic one... Im just telling it in case you buy any of the other upgrades, for combining shipping purposes. Every penny counts! lol.

Hmm..yes, well maybe that explains why there are two spare plastic elevation arms in the kit. Well, it sounds as if the Tank was actually doomed while still in the box. I jest, of course; but I understand that not all Tamiya Tanks are equal by any means- in terms of reliability and component design I mean Some have well known flaws.
I had to smile, by the way, when i noticed your new location details! Your heart's in England, then?