Panzer IV lose suspension screws

[Du7chManiac]

I keep having the same problem on my HL Panzer IV. The screws of the metal suspension keep getting lose. I made pictures from it so that maybe you guys can help out.

This is a picture from how my suspension looks (in case you don't know xD)


And this is what happens:


As you can see the screw holding the suspension gets lose, when I don't notice it the entire suspension breaks and the track comes off.
I can fix it if I remove the little cap and tighten the screw again. But when I go drive outside it happens again...

[jarndice]

Joren Hi, there are two answers to your problem, the first is to use theadlock, wipe the thread with the liquid but do make sure it does not interfere with the free movement of the suspension, you may find that you have to keep moving the suspension until the threadlock has set. The second is more expensive and means an upgrade to the suspension and longer screws. I should add that I try to avoid using self tapping screws where possable but when I do I usually use threadlock. there is a lot more to this subject but I have no idea how involved you want to get? shaun

[Du7chManiac]

Thanks for the answer

Well I want to fix this because it is really annoying. I can drive it for 20 mins and then it happens, every time. Wouldn't the threadlock cause any problems for the suspension ? Because I understand that it has to be a bit loose...

I already have the metal suspensions on there (pre installed) so I dont know what you mean by upgrading and longer screws ? Maybe I will try the threadlock first.

[Edwin]

Hi Joren,

chassis of the Panzer IV HL does not really and I made and the metal runner at the plastic tub worse than the simple plastic because they always tilt and the springs are too hard.

The screws you need easily with a drop glue into the thread back up, but be careful not to glue the carriage. I lubricate the cars always something with Tephlon grease from the CAR model

If you get a really working forming want to drive you have to go to the sink and schratch best as I build out of aluminum.

regards Edwin

[jarndice]

Joren, When you wipe the screw with threadlock leave the part of the screw that is in contact with the suspension free so that it can swing freely. The way I solved the problem was to fit metal wheels, metal rollers and mounts ( the axles come with C clips I put them to one side and fitted R clips, easy to fit and easy to remove ) metal tracks,idler adjusters ( which are pretty much essential with metal tracks ) and axle support bearings, It weighs a ton but it is very strong but beware hull flex, I also fitted longer hex headed screws yes still using threadlock, what you will find is that as you solve one problem that will produce another, if you remove the ariel you then have to decide which model of Panzer 4 you are building. different types = different locations, if you decide to fit metal engine bay doors by doing it you have to cut off the rear hull support struts so you can no longer hold the top to the bottom? now you have to fit magnets and and locating rods. to align the locating rods you need to fit metal radio operator/machine gunner and driver hatches so you can make sure you can get those rods lined up, you see what I mean? this is work that will allow you to hand it on to your grandchildren and it still will not be finished

[dgsselkirk]

Hi Guys,

my 2 cents for a quick fix idea. If you put a small amount of wax on the screw near the head and use the locktite only on the bottom of the screw were it needs to hold would that work? In running the wax would quickly wear off but the locktite would still be in place at the bottom of the thread? Just a thought.
Easies way to do it would be melt the wax on and then just clean off the bottom portion you need to locktite. The biggest problem I see is the plastic threads just grind off over time. Especially if you are constantly screwing them in tight. So yes, best solution replace with metal...

[Du7chManiac]

Joren, When you wipe the screw with threadlock leave the part of the screw that is in contact with the suspension free so that it can swing freely. The way I solved the problem was to fit metal wheels, metal rollers and mounts ( the axles come with C clips I put them to one side and fitted R clips, easy to fit and easy to remove ) metal tracks,idler adjusters ( which are pretty much essential with metal tracks ) and axle support bearings, It weighs a ton but it is very strong but beware hull flex, I also fitted longer hex headed screws yes still using threadlock, what you will find is that as you solve one problem that will produce another, if you remove the ariel you then have to decide which model of Panzer 4 you are building. different types = different locations, if you decide to fit metal engine bay doors by doing it you have to cut off the rear hull support struts so you can no longer hold the top to the bottom? now you have to fit magnets and and locating rods. to align the locating rods you need to fit metal radio operator/machine gunner and driver hatches so you can make sure you can get those rods lined up, you see what I mean? this is work that will allow you to hand it on to your grandchildren and it still will not be finished

Could you show me some pictures of how you fixed it? I don't understand the r-c clip thing... Also why would metal parts fix it? I got metal suspension and the screw just goes into the plastic lower hull...so metal or not the problem persists.

I was planning on upgrading sprocket, idlers, return wheels etc to metal but I just bought the tank so those upgrades have to wait... I never heard of idler adjusters when using metal tracks, I only knew track tensioners. But since I am driving plastic this is for later.

[cannedheat]

hi old chap , have you stripped the thread on the hull ? is it plastic? try putting a very small amount of wot is called locktite in the thread hole then leave for a few seconds refit your suspention unit do not get locktite all over the place tighten up the screw then undo a fraction so it not solid tight allows for movement of suspention if you do it right this hopefully will work if not then super glue will its just to keep your screw in place and tight. there is also the use of a small nut and bolt instead of the screw use washers then loccktite the nut ? hope you can see wot ones means old chap .

[Du7chManiac]

hi old chap , have you stripped the thread on the hull ? is it plastic? try putting a very small amount of wot is called locktite in the thread hole then leave for a few seconds refit your suspention unit do not get locktite all over the place tighten up the screw then undo a fraction so it not solid tight allows for movement of suspention if you do it right this hopefully will work if not then super glue will its just to keep your screw in place and tight. there is also the use of a small nut and bolt instead of the screw use washers then loccktite the nut ? hope you can see wot ones means old chap .

I didnt break anything if you mean that by stripping. It just came lose (on multiple places). Then I just tightened it again but not to tight since its in plastic.

Im going to buy some locktite and see if it helps. Thanks for all the replies, Ill keep this thread up to date.

[jarndice]

Joren, If you go to Heng Long builds, sub page 4 and scroll down to "FLESHYs OTHER REBUILD A PANZER IV " you will get most of your questions answered as well as some great ideas. If you explore all the sites on the forum you will learn much more than you really want to know.By the way idler adjusters on Panzer 111 and 1V do the same job in a different way as track tensioners on Panthers and Tigers. shaun