Heng Long Infrared unit for Clark board

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terrythegrey
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Heng Long Infrared unit for Clark board

Post by terrythegrey »

Hi can anyone tell me it I need to modify the Heng Long Infrared unit for the clark borad Tk22 to work.
Thanks.
Last edited by terrythegrey on Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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MichaelC
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BORAD

Post by MichaelC »

I have no problem with TK-20 with the HL mushroom. Just double check to make sure it is the right wires.
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BORAD

Post by Tankbear »

Yes can use HL ir with Clark boards but you need to swap the HL IR LED with a colour LED as this becomes the hit indicator the IR LED then plugs into the ir port on the clark board.

If you haven't bought your Clark board you need to order the IR LED plug and lead at same time as it doesn't come with it.

Performance wise the HL ir is a different frequency to the Tamiya so although will work range is a bit shorter between them. I got about 14m in sunlight so decent enough for garden battles or indoor battles.

Hope that helps.


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terrythegrey
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BORAD

Post by terrythegrey »

Thanks, Ian
Ian I was wandering if you would no how to turn off the jerking movement of the tank when you fire the cannon with the clark board.
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MichaelC
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BOARD

Post by MichaelC »

Terry, you need to install a jumper to J2 on the clark board, and also make sure that there is an LED connected to the flash port (J3) on the clark board. As Ian said, you will need an extra small JST connector for the LED port. Turn the tank on, and you can use the Surround button on the Sony remote to turn hull recoil on and off (1 flash is on, 2 flash is off). Obviously you need to have the IR mushroom plug in to receiver the Sony remote signal.
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MichaelC
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BOARD

Post by MichaelC »

Terry, you need to install a jumper to J2 on the clark board, and also make sure that there is an LED connected to the flash port (J3) on the clark board. As Ian said, you will need an extra small JST connector for the LED port. Turn the tank on, and you can use the Surround button on the Sony remote to turn hull recoil on and off (1 flash is on, 2 flash is off). Obviously you need to have the IR mushroom plug in to receiver the Sony remote signal.
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BOARD

Post by Tankbear »

Yeah like Michael said. I like the Clark board but is a bit of a shame it isn't clear what extras you need to buy with the Clark to get all the functions working.

If you haven't gotthe stuff to reprogram it maybe somebody local to you does and could help you out?

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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BOARD

Post by MichaelC »

Curtis @ Immortals has been great as he ships two small JST connectors with IR/LED for the clark board he sells me. He also close the battery pins too so you can plug the switched battery power in. The only extra is really the specific Sony remote, and if you have the TK-22 you really need that particular one which is a bit of a pain. I have been using the one for MAKOs for the TK-20, but with the added functionality on the TK-22 only that specific Sony remote will get you all the programming functions.

The only other beef is that there is no way you can tell which board (i.e. 20 or 22) and what sound it has on it by looking at the board.
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terrythegrey
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BOARD

Post by terrythegrey »

Thanks for all replies much appreciated
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Re: HENG LONG INFRARED UNIT FOR CLARK BOARD

Post by Tankbear »

MichaelC wrote:Curtis @ Immortals has been great as he ships two small JST connectors with IR/LED for the clark board he sells me. He also close the battery pins too so you can plug the switched battery power in. The only extra is really the specific Sony remote, and if you have the TK-22 you really need that particular one which is a bit of a pain. I have been using the one for MAKOs for the TK-20, but with the added functionality on the TK-22 only that specific Sony remote will get you all the programming functions.

The only other beef is that there is no way you can tell which board (i.e. 20 or 22) and what sound it has on it by looking at the board.
That is great service from Curtis then supplying the small bits which you need but don't know until the product arrives like when I bought mine.
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