Old Modeler, new R/C KT build

[dgsselkirk]

Hi Dietrich!

Thank you too for the acolades! Yes, it's funny, I catch myself remembering how I used to do things. Usually after I have done it ass backwards!

Funny you mention about how to twist up the wire! I never used a drill when I did this method years ago but maybe I will try that this weekend. I did do this idea years ago when making 1/35th tow ropes but locked one end in the vise and just had a little handle that I drew one end thru and put tension on it and twisted. The drill sounds faster though! And you are right you need to make it longer! I did that several times and ended up too short! The other thing that can cause issues is if you twist too tight you lose all the flexability in the wire. It becomes very rigid.

I really like the idea of incorporating centering posts and will be doing that on all future builds for sure! Thank you for that. Brilliant idea! And thanks for including the pictures! That always, always helps. I feel the more pictures the better!

Thanks again!

[dgsselkirk]

Well got the tow ropes twisted right now and as close as I could get to scale. I looked at the Bovington pics from Hatakashi again. I just want to mention his detailed photographs again. They have been invaluable in building this kit. thanks for those H! Didn't get to the paint yet but shortly. However did fool around with the decals.
Again these were generated on decal paper etched the blue background away and dropped in water for about 15 sec. When they came up from the water the blue background pretty much fell away. Stuck them on the tank and let them dry. The second pics showing them roughed up a bit and molded into the zim was done by taking laquer thinner and a soft bristle brush and gently dabing at the decal to push it into the zim. It gives a nice weather effect I think. The body will then be clearcoated to seal them on. They look much better than the airbrushed number I think! A nice low cost solution!

[Stince]

Dean, this is really good work. I hope you can make it down to a Can-Am Battleday, would love to see it in person.

[MichaelC]

The second pics showing them roughed up a bit and molded into the zim was done by taking laquer thinner and a soft bristle brush and gently dabing at the decal to push it into the zim. It gives a nice weather effect I think. The body will then be clearcoated to seal them on. They look much better than the airbrushed number I think! A nice low cost solution!

Hey Dean, is the decal sheet extra thin ? Also, when you dab it with the laquer thinner, did it desolve any of the paint/zim off ? I am also ready to give it another try.

[MichaelC]

To add to the use of the Neodynium magnets to hold the two halves of the hull together, personally I like to use the ones with the counter-sunk hole in the middle. This way you can actually put a screw through its centre to secure the magnet to the posts.

Hey Dietrich, where did you get these counter sink magnets that are the same size as the support post ? The only ones I can find from Magcraft are almost twice as big and it looks quite ungainly.

[dgsselkirk]

Hi Michael,

Yep, very, very thin decals and a little tricky to work with. That is why I make lots on a sheet! LOL! I should have mentioned I put a thin layer of clear coat under where I was going to put the decal on so I don't have too much of an issue with the paint disolving and certainly with the burn method no issues at all with the zim! But even with miliput or other types of putty if you have a little clear coat on it it shouldn't be an issue. Really I use very little laquer thinner very lightly dabbing and let it do the work. This is one of those things that patience is required because you will be doing it and suddenly it just goes in, bang! and is done.Give it a try but if you have issues more than willing to help you you know that...

[dgsselkirk]

Hi Stince,

I know my guts won't be done but I am trying hard to have the shell done for battle day. Rather handy that it got pushed back a week!

[MichaelC]

Hi Michael,

Yep, very, very thin decals and a little tricky to work with. That is why I make lots on a sheet! LOL! I should have mentioned I put a thin layer of clear coat under where I was going to put the decal on so I don't have too much of an issue with the paint disolving and certainly with the burn method no issues at all with the zim! But even with miliput or other types of putty if you have a little clear coat on it it shouldn't be an issue. Really I use very little laquer thinner very lightly dabbing and let it do the work. This is one of those things that patience is required because you will be doing it and suddenly it just goes in, bang! and is done.Give it a try but if you have issues more than willing to help you you know that...

I will give it a try. Last time I tried it was with 50/50 vinegar and water mixture to soften and wet the decal, and then dab it with the same liquid mixture to push it into the zims. It definitely did not work on my Mattaro KT which comes with moulded zims, nor on the Asiatam rubber zims for the Tiger I (Well at least it stay on that for a little longer than the KT).

I will try to spray some dull coat underneath first this time and use laquer thinner instead. My other issue is that the KT is pre-painted and I liked the camo so I can't really re-produce the camo is anything f-up. I can't do the sanding out the square to put the decal on like the real deal with the Charging Knights decal either because of the factory camo.

[dgsselkirk]

Hi Michael,

you should have no issues if you clear coat under it. I would use gloss. It lets you slide the decal around a little easier although with zim it's a little tricky. If you are using the stock HL decals forget it...they are too thick. I would have to see the charging knights decal and the tank you are putting it on and maybe come up with some ideas. Battle day is moving to the weekend after now I think. The 27th maybe you can make that one?

[MichaelC]

Dean, if I use gloss coat wouldn't I have to "re-dull" it afterwards ? I guess I can just put a dull coat over everything after it is done. Just to show you, here is the Mattarro KT stock moulded zim. Quite a bit of ridge details especially the vertical lines:

This is my failed attempt on the Asiatam rubber zim for the Tiger I:

Lastly, if I managed to have success with the KT and T1, this would be the last and the ultimate challange - Waffle style from Atek on my Stug III.