My T34 is with the stock gearbox's and motors and I find the tank too slow So at moment I have 8 cell 9.6v all controlled by a RX18. Now it might be my imagination but since I swapped the electronics it feels slower so maybe the RX18 is naturally restricting the power to the motors.
I had looked into changing the motors but the gearboxes only take 280 size motors so very limited choice and I only found Graupner ones rated at 6v so not much use.
Hmmm...... I replaced the motors with 280s so long ago I don't remember if the stock was slower. The 280s are definitely more powerful though. I need to think about this some more. Thanks everyone for their input.
I'm using 6 cells and Tam electronics in mine. I changed the gearboxes to Walker Bulldog ones (plastic gears, you don't need metal as its a light tank).
I used one of the gears from the T34 metal set on the final drive and fitted one of the other gears from the same set on the gearbox output.
Needed to trim the gearbox frames very slightly at the top to allow the upper hull to seat properly.
Its quite a bit slower than it was originally, but is almost unstoppable.
I use RX18 and 7,2 volt accu in my T34. Stock gears and motors. The speed is fine ( not to slow, not to fast IMO)
taigen tiger1 late ir
HL sherman 105mm BB
HL Sherman M4A3E4ish.BB
HL JP recoil, traverse.
HL M26 ir
HL KV1 ir
WsnT34 ir
HL KV2ish
HL Tiger1 early
HL Panzer IV, ir
Thanks guys. I am starting to think maybe it is me, but I am certain (maybe I should try this out) that my WSN T34/85 chassis (It has a SU-100 upper hull retrofitted) with Taigen 2.4Ghz and 280 motor plus stock gear will win the foot race in my fleet by a country mile. It would be easy for me to swap out the Taigen and put an RX-18 in and see, and then perhaps take out the 280s and put back the stock motors and try again. I think couple of the gears are from the metal set (same as BigPanzer as they are the only ones that can easily replaced without ripping the thing apart) but I am certain they are direct replacement so shouldn't have any effect.
The M41 Walker motor swap has me intrigued. I do have a long shaft plastic HL set from an old Panther which I think is the same as the M41, but given the tight configuration and the upgraded Taigen speaker I really don't see how it will fit in the hull. BigPanzer, do you have to move the location of the speaker as well for the M41 gear set ? I know there is a low profile set as well but don't think they come in plastic.
Before you go to all that work again I would suggest a rheostat. Then you wouldn't have to mess with power settings at all. I used to sell electric scooters and we had them so that people could set the speed high or low. It simply reduced the power flow from the battery. That way there is no effect on the charge of the battery either. Think of it like a light dimmer.
I can check but I think I have a few. I can mail you one out send me a PM with your mailing address again. You could simply splice it into the lines running to the motors and try it and if it does work mount it, set it, and forget it. (they are small about the dia. of a loonie) If it doesn't work no harm no foul simply repair the splice.
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov
Dean, I can try to get some here. Do I just go ask for rheostat at the electronic store ? What size would I need to get ? Is it by voltage or amp or whatever ? Is it the same as pots ?
The wire is already spliced since I have the MAKO/ATRC installed so it is a no brainer. That's what I did with the diode that didn't get me anywhere.
Yea, ask for a rheostat and just tell them the application you are using and they should be able to hook you up with the right item. You know if you have an extra volume control sitting around you might try that right away to see if that will work. That is all a volume control is is a rheostat.
"There are things in Russia which are not as they seem..."
Georgy Konstantinovich Zhukov