Any of you guys any first hand knowledge of the best glue/adhesive to secure small brass hinges to plastic so that the hinges still work? Tried several things which included a lot of swearing but nothing I have appears to work.
Hi I used to do a lot of scale scratchbuilding of model boats and the only thing that I used was thick cryogenic glue and applied it with a pin head to the area I was gluing. 95% of the time it was perfect but there was still 5% of the time when the air went a bit blue and was always the hinges in the full veiw that stuck and never the slightly hidden ones. Another little trick I used was to smear a tiny amount of vaseline to the hinge itself in the hope the glue would not take (sometimes it worked sometimes it did'nt. If the hinge is big enough I also soldered a small spike of 0.5mm brass to the hinge plates and then drill the wall / deck and pushed the spike through and then glued the spike on the inside.
Hope this is of any help.
Hawkeye, thanks for that, I don't have a great problem with the hinges seizing up, its the actual glueing of one type of material to another and them staying that way. I've tried various supergues etc but nowt works, after about the second attempt, the door or what ever just breaks away, I like the vaseline idea though, help both keep the hinge free AND lubed, just wish I could get the little buggers to stay put.
ABO, I almost never glue hinges, Some time ago I bought a Tap & Die set from ROLSON via Amazon, it allows you to make the smallest of threads and there are plenty of people on the vendors site who can provide nuts and bolts to size, the advantage of doing it this way is a light smear of threadlock and the work is secure yet if you need to remove it later you are not messing with debonder and damaging your model, you would of course have to buy "BA" spanners and I have found a "BA" socket set useful. shaun
Hi mate there was one other glue I used my wife reminded me It was a german resin glue called stablite express a two part glue (part liquid and part powder) it has a quick drying time about 6 minutes but the biggest problem was its price (think off a figure and double it), but it did work well.
2 part epoxies are what I have used. One little trick is to roughen the surface of the plastic for better a better stick. I agree with jarndice for hinges and other parts that will be subject to a lot of movement better to drill through and mount if you can. I used M1's for my KT fender build.
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