Metal track tightness

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Tankbear
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by Tankbear »

Couple of options.

1) There is a contact switch on the back of the airsoft with a red and black wires plugging into the RX18. This triggers the track recoil and sound. So if you can cope with out the sound then simply unplug it.

2) This product http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/drag ... 1796-p.asp which basically puts a relay in line with the motors and will disconnect them when the track recoil is about to work.

3) Is the twin RX18 approuch. Wire two RX18 with power and receiver leads in parallel, then one RX18 powers only the track motors and the other does everything else. This way is more involved (specially if you have a spares tin with a spare RX18 etc) but has the benefits of no track recoil and firing on the move.

4) change the electronics. Most expensive but getting better features and sounds, but of the alternative electronics are more expensive than a new HL tank so depends on what you really want.

Ian.
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Bulldog01
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by Bulldog01 »

Option 2 sounds great. As I get more involved with tank electronics, putting all new systems in will be no problem. For now, I'm still learning how this all works. RC cars - no brainer. RC helis - small brainer. RC tanks - still learning. I noticed on the link you sent that they were out of stock---bummer. Also seems to be for IR ports..will it work airsoft also?? Same port? either shoots a BB or a beam? Sorry for the extreme newbe questions. BTW, it's my birthday today! Day after Xmas sucks!! LOL.

Darren
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MichaelC
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by MichaelC »

Ian, with the twin RX-18s, do you need two batteries then ? Or is one sufficient to support both RX-18s ? I didn't look into this until I was converted to 2.4Ghz and was looking to disable with the track recoil on some of my tanks (But I am all hook up now with MAKO/ATRC coming to me somewhere over the Pacific Ocean right now). However, it does intrigue me and I do have some spare RX-18 lying around so I might give it a try just out of curiosity.

Obviously you will need the same crystals on the two RX-18s and all you have to do is plug one in for the motors and the other for the rest. I guess it won't work for Taigen 2.4Ghz since I think you can only bind one receiver to one transmitter (or can you ? Now I am even more intrigue).

Bulldog01, the Dragon ATRC unit will only with BBs so it should work for you. It is a pretty neat solution and I would have gone that route if I have BBs. As it turn out I need some extra electronics (MAKO)for it to work on IR tanks.
Bulldog01
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by Bulldog01 »

Gotcha MichaelC - I will try to find a Dragon ATRC. Any other sources for that? And what does it stand for? Anti tank recoil circuit? I know, I'm a newbe goober!!! LOL
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MichaelC
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by MichaelC »

Yup. Anti Track Recoil Circuit. 16 British Pounds at Welsh Dragon. Immortals Hobbies also carry it and they are here in Ontario, Canada.

http://www.shop.immortalhobbies.com/Dra ... 121299.htm

Or you can go directly at the source:

http://rctanksaustralia.com/shop/index. ... cts_id=216

Price wise I think they are all the same ($16BP vs $22 Cdn vs $24AUS). Unfortunately these days everything is higher than your US greenbacks. You might get a break in shipping, but my experience has been that shipping coming from England or Aussie could be cheaper in some cases then buying it in NA and get here at the same time. Steve@WDM, Curtis@Immortals and Kevin@RCTankAussie are all active in this forum and all great guys and will be able to help you out.
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Tankbear
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by Tankbear »

Bulldog01 wrote:Option 2 sounds great. As I get more involved with tank electronics, putting all new systems in will be no problem. For now, I'm still learning how this all works. RC cars - no brainer. RC helis - small brainer. RC tanks - still learning. I noticed on the link you sent that they were out of stock---bummer. Also seems to be for IR ports..will it work airsoft also?? Same port? either shoots a BB or a beam? Sorry for the extreme newbe questions. BTW, it's my birthday today! Day after Xmas sucks!! LOL.

Darren
Well Happy Birthday then Darren. :thumbup: but don't feel short changed having it so close to Christmas I have mine in July and still gets over looked :crazy:

Yeah the Dragon ATRC is probably best option in the short term until you had chance to figure out all the alternative electronic controllers etc you could go for in the future. I've been in this hobby 18 months and still reading and learning about alternatives options available 8|

Ian.
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Tankbear
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by Tankbear »

MichaelC wrote:Ian, with the twin RX-18s, do you need two batteries then ? Or is one sufficient to support both RX-18s ? I didn't look into this until I was converted to 2.4Ghz and was looking to disable with the track recoil on some of my tanks (But I am all hook up now with MAKO/ATRC coming to me somewhere over the Pacific Ocean right now). However, it does intrigue me and I do have some spare RX-18 lying around so I might give it a try just out of curiosity.

Obviously you will need the same crystals on the two RX-18s and all you have to do is plug one in for the motors and the other for the rest. I guess it won't work for Taigen 2.4Ghz since I think you can only bind one receiver to one transmitter (or can you ? Now I am even more intrigue).

Bulldog01, the Dragon ATRC unit will only with BBs so it should work for you. It is a pretty neat solution and I would have gone that route if I have BBs. As it turn out I need some extra electronics (MAKO)for it to work on IR tanks.
Hi Michael,

You run them off the same battery. What you do is between the switch and RX18 power plug you add an extra RX18 power plug then this feeds both RX18. Then the 3 wire lead from the receiver and the RX18 you again add another 3 wire lead/plug, so you have the one receiver (and crystal) connected to both RX18's. This means what ever signal the controller sends it goes to both RX18's.

The rest of the wires stay the same but split between the two RX18's.

Only issue I found was when I went to IR, I found you also have to share the IR signal wire between the two RX18's other wise when the tank was destroyed it shut down/standby one RX18 (the one with the IR connected) and the other stay active so your tank would drive but nothing else, if you pressed the key on the controller it then shut down the active RX18's and activate the standby RX18 so in short had to manually switch off and back on to get it all synced together again.

As far as I know this will not work with the Taigen system as the receiver is built into the controller.

Ian.
www.mad-tanks.weebly.com
www.rctankelectronics.com
www.rc-truck.weebly.com
www.rc-boat.weebly.com
Bulldog01
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by Bulldog01 »

Yeah, money rate is quirky at best...My wife is from Latvia. Let say we take 2000.00 USD for a visit. I thought the exchange rate rate was 2 to 1 in my favor...WRONG!!! Turned my two grand into 1...That was about 5 years ago though...About the ATRC..Immortal in Canada would probably be best for me. Being I live in Southern California. Just a straight shot south...AND, THANKS FOR THE B-DAY WISHES EVERYONE!!

Darren
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MichaelC
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by MichaelC »

Tankbear wrote:
MichaelC wrote:Ian, with the twin RX-18s, do you need two batteries then ? Or is one sufficient to support both RX-18s ? I didn't look into this until I was converted to 2.4Ghz and was looking to disable with the track recoil on some of my tanks (But I am all hook up now with MAKO/ATRC coming to me somewhere over the Pacific Ocean right now). However, it does intrigue me and I do have some spare RX-18 lying around so I might give it a try just out of curiosity.

Obviously you will need the same crystals on the two RX-18s and all you have to do is plug one in for the motors and the other for the rest. I guess it won't work for Taigen 2.4Ghz since I think you can only bind one receiver to one transmitter (or can you ? Now I am even more intrigue).

Bulldog01, the Dragon ATRC unit will only with BBs so it should work for you. It is a pretty neat solution and I would have gone that route if I have BBs. As it turn out I need some extra electronics (MAKO)for it to work on IR tanks.
Hi Michael,

You run them off the same battery. What you do is between the switch and RX18 power plug you add an extra RX18 power plug then this feeds both RX18. Then the 3 wire lead from the receiver and the RX18 you again add another 3 wire lead/plug, so you have the one receiver (and crystal) connected to both RX18's. This means what ever signal the controller sends it goes to both RX18's.

The rest of the wires stay the same but split between the two RX18's.

Only issue I found was when I went to IR, I found you also have to share the IR signal wire between the two RX18's other wise when the tank was destroyed it shut down/standby one RX18 (the one with the IR connected) and the other stay active so your tank would drive but nothing else, if you pressed the key on the controller it then shut down the active RX18's and activate the standby RX18 so in short had to manually switch off and back on to get it all synced together again.

As far as I know this will not work with the Taigen system as the receiver is built into the controller.

Ian.
I will give it try over the holidays. Not a permanent thing so I would just wired up separate switches/batteries etc to see how well it works. I will just have two receivers with the same crystal. I will see if I can bind two different Taigen receiver to a single transmitter.
Bulldog01
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Re: Metal track tightness

Post by Bulldog01 »

Well....The sh*t just hit the fan...Tank broke -er- quit working properly. All fresh batteries, charged etc... turn switch on the tank, lights flash, and the right track just keeps turning. Have the hulls apart, and same thing. Hit the switch and the right motor just spins. Move the stick and the other side tries to work normal but right side will not stop turning no matter how I have the remote trim set Heard about reset programing. Anyone know anything about that? Otherwise I have to buy all new electronics. Also when I hit the start button on the remote, nothing happens....SH@T...Any sugestions?? This is all stock Henglong equipment by the way - Darren
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