Pz.Kpfw.VI Ausf.B Königstiger

[mangaroca]

Hello,

My name is Darek and yesterday I became a happy owner of the Tamiya King Tiger. I'm 30 years old and have played with all kinds of military models for a couple of years now. However, I never tried my luck with R/C tanks. Therefore, I'd like to start this thread and treat it as a Question / Answer Board that would help me and aid me in my build. I hope you don't mind "building" another KT with me...

No matter how advanced a modeller is, he or she always remembers the first model. That first model is always planned as a "top quality, advanced & upgraded" beauty that's supposed to reach the status of "a work of art" It hardly ever happens... New materials, new techniques, etc. Learning to work with them always takes time. As I am patient enough (learnt that while building a wooden XVIII Century ship ) I'm also afraid that the will of seeing my German beast in action in my garden will try to make me rush with the build. I'll do everything and anything not to let it happen...

As I mentioned above - the KT being my first R/C Tank I'd like to upgrade it with top quality available add-ons such as Recoil, Tracks, Gearboxes, etc. just to mention a few. The initial list already costs more then the Tamiya kit I just got but I feel I simply owe all those upgrades to the KT... How crazy am I...?

Unfortunately, I know jack about radios, receivers, transmitters, batteries, soldering and all the other things most of you have already mastered. That's why I beg you for tolerance and patience. Please, bare with me! I will ask basic questions but I will learn quickly - that I can promise you!

So, if you aren't already bored with the looong introduction, allow me to ask the "first set":

1. I have found two types of upgraded metal gearboxes - 5:1 and 3:1. As I want my KT to best simulate the dynamics of the real tank when it's completed (acceleration, etc.), which ratio would be better? Do they actually impact the speed?

2. Do you recommend painting the metal underside / frame of the body before screwing ANYTHING to it or can I wait with this? What should the correct order of operations be (not to end up with "unreachable spots between the suspension", etc.)?

3. So far I've found the Shumo Store in Germany. However, they don't offer ALL the parts I'd like (e.g. metal mud flaps, gun recoil, etc.). What other online stores within the EU would you recommend for the Tamiya KT?

I will paste a list of things I want upgraded in my build. Please, be so kind and comment on my choices. Perhaps some of the parts I chose will have even better equivalents elsewhere or you will know where they can be bought cheaper. I'm no millionaire but I will try my best to spend every penny on this magnificent model and make it even better.

Looking forward to "cooperating" with you all!

Kindest regards -
Darek

[mangaroca]

Hi,

I had a closer look on the available upgrades and found pretty much most of the things I was looking for. Some of them even in a few variants. Please, take a look at the links below and help me choose the best options:

TORSION BARS:

http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/kata ... ::261.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://mitosal.com/16T022.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

***

IDLERS:

http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/kata ... m::60.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://etoarmour.com/product_detail.php?productID=DP01" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.wecohe.de/shop/index.php?mai ... 490f2ef8e2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

***

DRIVING SHAFT SUPPORT BEARINGS:

http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/kata ... ::495.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://etoarmour.com/product_detail.php ... ID=KT0027M" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

***

WHEEL AXES & BEARINGS:

http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/kata ... ::497.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[are they for static and old models only???]

http://etoarmour.com/product_detail.php ... D=KT0028FO" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

***

SPROCKET COVERS:

http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/kata ... :4374.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.wecohe.de/shop/index.php?mai ... 490f2ef8e2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

***

Thanks!

[[ICE]monkey]

they look good, have you tried steve at welshdragon, i got most of my upgrades from him ,great bloke and fast postage
http://www.welshdragonmodels.co.uk/king-tiger-10-c.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[tomhugill]

I was just about to recomend welshdragon too, hes a top bloke and posts the same day usually if you order before 1 and usually get the parts next day! The tamiya tus are just fine to be honest the only other options are the 3:1 drop outs which bolt onto the tamiya TUs or the impact 3:1s both have their advantages but Id try the drop outs as theyre cheaper! By the way, things like metal tools and mud flaps are pointless, they look just the same when painted. A better use for your money is mechanical upgrades (not the impact torsionbars, theyre a pain in the arse for little to no gain (tamiya ones work fine)) Idler upgrades and drive shaft supports are probably a number one priority. As for detailing invest in a decent PE set , pe grills and maybe moving front hatches and periscopes! Ive built a couple of tamiya king tigers so Ive been though this before and Ive found alot of the upgrades are fairly pointless and abit of a money pit! Hope this helps!

ps turnigy do an inertia chip which is very cheap and looks to work pretty well!

[mangaroca]

Thanks for the replies! I was worried I will get none

I have already ordered idler systems and driveshaft supports (from Welshdragon) I am thinking of getting the torsion bars from WeCoHe http://www.wecohe.de/shop/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=63" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but since you say they're not worth it I'll think again... I would like to get a set of late metal tracks with new sprockets and was even considering this http://www.wecohe.de/shop/index.php?mai ... 490f2ef8e2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but the price is killing me. I would make it however if I really wanted to (I just need to sell a few things like TV, fridge, etc.)

[Saxondog]

Steve is the best,really fine fellow. Also the question about painting,I painted the metal hull first,primer inside and out. Then the base coat on the outside only. After that assembly. Their are many post here on the King Tiger,and a fine set of camo drawings in that section.

Does your kit have the ZIMMERITE stick on material? This I applied straight to the hull,them primer and base coat after which I painted the camo.

The other issue is gearbox,their is a calculator on this forum that will provide you with the data on scale speed toque and optional pinion gearing on the motors,and different motors. The fields allow you to input data and the calculator will automatically provide the information based on input data.

Their is a site on e-bay called Jason's store,this is a good outlet for the Tamiya internal and other Tamiya parts if needed. Best of luck on your build,and welcome to the world of RC Tanks and this forum,you will not find a finer group of guys and a fine attitude for support.

Every skill level of modelling can be found here,but everyone is treated with consideration, But I think you already know this from the responses to your questions. Look forward to your progress,and please post as many photos as possible.

Saxondog

[mangaroca]

Thank you very much for a warm welcome! I do find this place very cozy and educative.

You have already answered a question before I even asked it! I do have the Zimmerite to apply on my tank but I thought assembly comes first. Now I know I need Metal Primer and Surface (plastic) Primer applied first. Since this is my first RC tank and already I'd like to put in some upgrades it all feels as if I was loosing it... I have so many things to plan ahead and remember about... So far my plan is:

- get the hex screws and other already ordered upgrades
- metal-prime the "belly"
- apply base coat of the colour scheme of my choice
- start assembling

Thank God most of the build doesn't require the radios... Guess what - I haven't bought them yet I will when the time comes. I just hope this is not anytime soon cause my wife is already watching me
As to the uprades I have put much stress on making the mechanical systems as good as possible:
- late metal tracks with sprockets
- full metal road wheels with ball bearings (if I can afford spending £250)
- full idler wheel upgrade
- "a type of" torsion bars upgrade
- IMPACT gearboxes...

The thing is I don't know what the total weight of my tank is going to be in the end (I will also want an recoil upgrade and a few of the eye-candy add-ons). I was thinking of getting the gearboxes in the very end... What do you think?

The calculators I know are here:
http://jbwid.com/art74j.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://jbwid.com/art74i.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Perhaps, when the tank is more or less done I will make it run on the standard engines / gearboxes and I will measure the times. Only then will I be able to order the correct selection of gears etc. to make it run "in scaled speeds". BTW, what is a better choice - modifying this via chip or mechanically through gearboxes???

As to the Welshdragon, my goods are on their way to me already! (1 day since I ordered). The problem is most of the things I would like yo buy are not present in Steve's shop I have tried the German shops like WeCoHe and Schumo but the IMPACT gearboxes are only available from Singapore... and that's going to cost me Customs

I'll keep you informed - thanks for your help!
Regards -
Darek

[Saxondog]

He is the link for the forum Gearbox Calculator, http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/d ... ftware.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for painting and Zimmerite,the Zimmerite is easy to apply and fits well, Think this out though,once assembled painting is difficult,painting first works better but then you have to be careful of damage.

But the lower hull is a must to paint first,other wise all your internal suspension will be painted and this is not good. At least in my view,the internal hull being primer,(Rust-oleum rusty metal primer) just like the real tank,this also makes the metal parts stand out and keep them nice and clean.

The Hull And Turret along with the Zimmerite can wait until the very end almost, but consider the Track brackets,and cable Brackets. Then the tool brackets all would be painted when the hull was at the factory,some have painted cables,cleaning rods and tools. But in my view weather painted ai the factory or in the field they would not paint over the cables,tools or tracks that would just create problems.

Also don't worry,many guys here are far more skilled than me and many are truly skilled at weathering and painting,my tanks look good and the detailing has been carefully planned but GUYS on this forum helped,the Painting and weathering in Gray post was my first tank,I had two great guys to help me. Oz and Steiner,and both their Tigers are in the Masterclass section.

You mentioned weight,my Tiger is heavy at 20LBS. this is due to alot of added weight but works very well,my best runner it will drive through most terrain,I used automotive wheel weights with adhesive backing to balance out my tank. My main reason was the early Asiatam Tiger Hulls(purchased from Steve) had to strong a set of springs,so I LOADED down my Tiger,3:1 gearbox and 400 Gruapner motors pulled this weight perfectly.

But that is a different animal, check out the link,and enjoy the forum. Regards,Blake

[X82d Pathfinder]

I personally have found that using most average "bomb can" primers on the aluminum tub is a bad idea. It peels and scatches off rather quickly. Some use the Tamiya universal gray primer, however also a poor choice for aluminum without etching first. I don't know if this is readily available in the UK, but SEM makes what is called an "etching primer". It's a product widely used in the automotive industry. It's specifically for bare metal prior to priming. Then you can prime over it with something like Tamiya primer.
It actually incorporates an acid that helps the primer chemically bond with the metal.
Preparation is essential to a good paint job. You should scuff the aluminum hull with 400 wet or dry paper, then wash it with hot soapy water. After it is dry, you can use the etching primer. The SEM has stayed on some kits that were done over 10 years ago. Being the UK is overwhelmed with Eco-Alarmist, you may have to seach for it.

Good luck on the build!
-Dan

[mangaroca]

Gents,

I need to decide which torsion bars upgrade I should get. I heard that the effects it gives are marginal but I want it anyway. I am tempted by the ones available here:
http://www.wecohe.de/shop/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=63" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
However, I read that they have a tendency to change the tension adjustments because of vibration. Could anyone confirm or deny this?