HL Tiger 1 road wheel alignment

[Tankbear]

Hi guys not had my tank (HL Tiger 1 S&S model with plastic tracks) long but find the tracks come off quite a lot when outside on the patio.

One side comes half off the rear idler the other side pops off the drive wheel slightly but enough to cause problems.

Having searched around a bit I found that the road wheels need to be inline with the drive wheel and idler as that could cause the track to shift side ways. Having checked the road wheels are not in line but tried tighten up the bolt to try get the wheel closer to hull but still doesn't help.

Any suggestions?

[Tankbear]

Also the rear idler wheels are a bit loose so was thinking of replacing them with metal ones (Asiatam Late pattern metal idler wheels) from Welsh dragon Models.

Anyone used these? Will these metal ones stand up to the job?

[blimp]

Hiya Tankbear ,The Asiatam metal idlers have a 4mm spindle , H/L's plastic ones are held on by a 5mm dia. shouldered screw , so no go i'm afraid - unless you get the Asiatam tensioner conversion as well . B .

* The 'late' idler was a smaller dia. for use with the all steel road wheels - the earlier large ones are available .

[panzerfahrer]

Hi tankbear, you cant push the drive wheels or idlers closer to the hull, but you can pull the road wheels away from from the hull and line them up with the drive and idler wheels, but be careful with the suspension arms, The road wheel axles are a push fit through the suspension arms, and simply float up and down in the curved slots in the hull sides, I suggest you take the top off and holding each suspension arm in turn, push the axle out a bit from inside the hull. hope this makes sense.

[Saxondog]

Tankbear, If you intend to continue in this hobby,and if you want to upgrade the Tiger save some money and Buy the Asiatam lower hull, It is the best way to have a H/L Tiger that you want to keep and enjoy. You can plan the build and work with Dave Forgebear or Steve @ Welshdragon and build a foundation that once built the only stress is charging batteries.

I went overboard on mine but that was 2 years ago,it was my first tank and the Asiatam hull was brand new,once I worked out problems that no longer exist because of improvements and new products like the road wheels it ran great and still does.

If you add metal sprockets to the H/L Lower hull and metal tracks all of that in my humble opinion is wasted,nothing is stronger than it's weakest link.(plastic control arms) and a very weak spring system. You can add metal parts to the H/L Hull and other improvements and still the same rule applies,all those improvements are connected to plastic.

Many have taken both roads here,I am one and my opinion is nothing more than a reflection of my experience with my Tiger. The good news is cost,about 2/3 what I paid for these parts is the current cost. I am sure if you talk with Dave or Steve they can work out the parts you need and a way to purchase that works for everyone.

I know this,the Tiger can be alot of fun,I have had to replace the battery,that's it. My Tiger runs well,over any surface except water,I do not do water. But sand,dirt,rocks,grass,concrete,asphalt and even carpet. I have wound things into my tracks and that required removing the tracks and removing some kite string. But nothing was damaged.

I also have done some unique mods to my Tiger like the axles,and the tensioner axles.Both those mods are well documented here as are other members builds using the H/L Hull and the Asiatam hull. I will help you if that is needed and can show the pictures of my modifications.And of course you have the resource of the forum,and that is alot of help, Saxondog


It began here,http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... f=1&t=2536

[Tankbear]

Saxondog, thanks for the reply. I agree the metal is probably the route to go but i've only had my tank for a week and therefore difficult to say whether I still be having fun in 3 months time so for the time been wanting to keep costs down until I know for certain.

I think for now my plan is to run it and replace the plastic bits when their break.

[Woz]

I used bolts and an aluminium L bar to secure the suspension arms and used bolts on the idle wheels. In three years I've never thrown a track.

[Tankbear]

Hi tankbear, you cant push the drive wheels or idlers closer to the hull, but you can pull the road wheels away from from the hull and line them up with the drive and idler wheels.

Tried that but didn't appear to do much as the wheels sprung back to the original position. I did put some oil in the rear idler wheels which I thik has helped a bit.

I kind of see what you saying about the suspension arms and curved slots. thinking of putting a longer bolt on problem wheel so fits through hull and put a washer and nut to hold it in towards the hull.

[Tankbear]

I used bolts and an aluminium L bar to secure the suspension arms

Not certain if this is a HL improvement but my model came with a thin metal strip across the suspension arm points already.

Or

I'm missing the point and they all come like that and the upgrade is to shift to the L sheet for further strength.

[Woz]

I used bolts and an aluminium L bar to secure the suspension arms

Not certain if this is a HL improvement but my model came with a thin metal strip across the suspension arm points already.

Or

I'm missing the point and they all come like that and the upgrade is to shift to the L sheet for further strength.

The metal strip was added to later HL's to try and improve the suspension.

The problem with the HL suspenson was that the arms screwed into a bit of plastic which allowed the arms to flex. Also you couldn't tighten the arms too much or you risked stripping the thread in the plastic or breaking it off (which happens to some people when they run their tanks).

My solution has the arms fitted with bolts (that have had the heads ground down to fit flush with the suspension arms) that are bolted onto a aluminium L bar which doesn't flex.