Jagdpanther Tamiya w/HL

[xrad]

After my last HL JP build, I had so many extras that I thought I would build one more JP.

Parts I have:
Tammy hull
Tammy superstructure
Tammy rear hull plate
Tammy hull details

Asiatam drive motors with long output shaft and BB's

HL electronics for control IR and Flash/recoil

Tammy Pershing recoil unit

HL metal tracks and drive/idler

Have to find a way to fit my old HL wheels to the tammy suspension arms.

Will post pics soon.

[xrad]

Here is the first little bit:
Motors.

I have used Tammy motors...a.little too fast, even with all the gears. I added a home built 3:1 gear reducer to motor pinion output and that worked well, but what a PITA to make.

Next is HL plastic gears...cheap and horrible in my opinion. The housing warps under load allowing gears to slip.

Next is HL cast metal. much better, but too fast and you still have to reinforce the housing if you get the 'old' style. Newer style motor location much better.

Steel HL gearbox. Looks nice. Don;t know the speed....Maybe.....

'Brass(plated??)' HL gearbox......well, looks nice but upon closer inspectoion, it does have stiffer sides than steel or cast boxes, but no extra bracing.

Last choice is brass and steel (asiatam???) with bracing and set screws and BB on output shaft. Only drawback is that you can't easily add a stronger motor unless you cant one of the housings above the other.

I chose the brass and steel 'asiatam'??? boxes from Welsh Dragon. This is the same style I have in my PIII and they work great. check out the pics and notice the fine differences. Is one a better copy of the other?? Or is one a worse copy of the other??

[xrad]

apparently, you need many parts to build a tank. I put together what I had and some new stuff from Jason;s store....I really like the Tammy barrel. I am going to try to save some $ by using the HL wheels. They come off quite easily once you pry the little cover off to expose the screw.

I may not get to this one right away...

[xrad]

some suspension work today. decided not to go with Impact susp and try Tammy susp. I was working on my Pocher Alfa steel leaf spring suspension upgrade when I thought of an idea for the JP.

Since I had doubles of the torsion 'bars' (from Jason's store ebay), I split down the middle 13mm on one bar end, then cut this off so now I had three pieces. With careful measurement, I used these two new strips to clamp the remainder of the suspension bar to a normal length one (in the right spot so that it can be inserted into torsion bar retainers mounted to hull). I compressed them after careful bending in a bench vise.

Looked good, and works great. Really beefs up the suspension...but still remains springy, not stiff.

however, although the crimps don't unbend during flexing, they do slide a little on the bar...and I don;t want them falling off! My next thing is to put some heat shrink tube on the whole thing. That should work...

I plan to do two front and two rear bars on each side..


ALSO, I bought the SHUMO bolt kit and Daryls covers, and drive guards from ETO Armor. VERY good email contact and FAST shipping!! Excellent to deal with. Bolt kit replaces the Tammy phillips screws holding suspension guides to hull...they look great. Also comes with many other high grade bolts to replace allen screws...whish I knew about this kit for the last tank!

[xrad]

Just received some new pieces to the puzzle (Thanks Welsh Dragon!)

Two low speed gearboxes with the correct output shaft length. Very nicely made with heavy alu walls, BB on output shaft, bronze bushings on the other shafts, TWO set screws for the output final drive gear (don't ask me how I found out), and VERY nicely cut gear teeth, all mesh well together.

Just doing a mock-up with some test fitting. These boxes are made for the HL JP, not the Tammy, so I will have to do a little lower hull metal work. I don't want to change the output shaft position, so that means the hull gets fixed. Also, motors come with some mounting threaded spacers. I have a set of Tammy motor spacers too and I will check each for proper height over torsion bars.

With the motors in place, there is plent of room for the motor leads (as one is clocked 90 degrees to the other. I am using the standard HL metal drive sprokets. They are well made and fit the HL metal tracks. I was a little disappointed with the 'upgrade' JP sprockets as they were cast with the axle fitting slightly crooked so that when the turn, the track gets tighter and looser(barely noticeable, but I know it's there...)...

Output shaft length will work fine as there is room to go inboard or outboard +/-3mm or more. I will have to drill the hull and motor mounts for proper mounting. But this will not be done until the road wheels are in place so that I can line up the track properly. I am using Impact drive guards. They are very well built and fit the Tammy hull perfectly.

The roadwheels can't be mounted until I figure out to get ball b's into the HL roadwheels. I got a set of road wheel axles (Tammy) form jason's store and they should be here soon. ETO has the ball bearing set for the tammy axles...

and it all starts over again...

[xrad]

As the KT build winds up, I am gathering more parts for the next JP build. I think the JP kit and the stug went together the best. I really like my stug winter cammo and that is what I will aim for on this one.

Just ordered the BB metal wheels and BB idlers from RCCommand....I think the cast metal BB wheels are the best out of all the aftermarket wheels (not including the machined ones with all the little bolts...)

This is mostly a tammy build, but I am using HL electronics and recoil system. the challenge will be to mod the HL recoil to the tammy superstructure.

Still cheaper than the FO tammy kit onto which I would have to add the metal wheels, tracks , and bb idlers, rc system anyway.

[[ICE]monkey]

looking good, like the double suspension idea
regards, ice

[xrad]

thanks Ice! I tried an internal shock system on my first JP build(similar to the original). But, it was cumbersome, and hard to find small working shocks that would fit in with the motor housings.

[Saxondog]

As always very interesting build, when at first you were considering stock H/L wheels. I had that situation and resolved it and the future Axle set/grub screw control arms. I tap the control arms,3.5mm are perfect. DU-BRO Bolts can be ordered with a longer shoulder,this fits the Wheel bearing/bushings on most wheels,nylon washers created a tight fit but allow rotation without friction. The bolts have worked for a year or more on my Tiger,never had an issue with wheels tracks or control arms. Just thought I would share that experience. The center wheel hubs look good with the HHCS as well.

cheers Sax

[xrad]

Nice Sax, I guess I will have a set of HL wheels for sale soon (and bearings)

Some issues with the motor housing fitting into the JP hull..especially up front. I will have to mod the hull a little (rather the hull than the motors as the final drive gear is too big to fit..)