With it sliced off, I increased the thickness of the sprocket ring and removed the center section that got cut off off the old sprocket.
I drug a new copy of the original sprocket onto the build plate. It then duplicated the ring I made thicker and overlayed it to the top and bottom set of sprocket teeth. All of this was done with the sprocket sitting vertically because you can right click on any item on the build plate choosing "center". It perfectly centers it on the plate. After centering the orignal sprocket, I centered both the sprocket rings which made them line up in exactly the right orientation getting rid of any guess work. The slicer doesn't allow you to elevate or depress the sprocket rings I cut off so I left them on the build plate (flat), I moved the unmodified sprocket below the build plate and merged it with the thicker sprocket once it where I wanted it. I did the same process with the other sprocket ring so that both rings were merged. I had a copy of the KV-1 sprocket on the build plate so that I new exactly how thick the ring had to be. You can see that the only thing that changed was the thickness of the teeth.
And the final product after printing. As you can see, the teeth are now beefier. They should hold up much better now.
That's all for now...
The Bambu slicing software allows some pretty powerful functions where you can create shapes like boxes, cylinders, circles, discs, rounded rectangles, cones, etc. You can combine a lot of those things together and "merge" them into a single part. You can also draw "negatives" of all those items which basically cut holes instead of create solid objects. As an example, I needed a speaker box for the IS-4 as there isn't a lot of space in it. The Heng Long 7.1 seems to keep blowing my Taigen speakers so I grabbed a Visaton FRS 5X 2" speaker I had in the stash. That meant I needed a box that fit in the hull for that speaker so I ended up drawing one in the slicer that fit the space and the speaker. I also ported the box and integrated the porting tube into the lid. I didn't measure out the mounting holes for the speaker or draw the holes in the main box. I'll just use a drill for those. I printed it in a really fast draft mode so it's not the prettiest thing, but it doesn't have to be. The gray part the arrow is pointing to is a "negative" cylinder to make the port tube hollow when it prints.
