Tongde Centurion servo setup question

[trickymc1r]

Hi,

I am wondering too about this servo port on a Centurion Tongde board.

If you have a photo of the Tongde 3 board with a servo I'm interested to know. As I could swap to servo elevation but retain the BB fire function.

I have just received a new Tongde Centurion yesterday from Toucan via AliExpress as Forgebear didn't have any in stock and I was impatient to wait.

I did however buy the metal upgrade kit. I'm assuming the standard plastic kit has metal gears so will also upgrade that but it's not looking as straightforward to mount as they have a different mounting location. So alot of measurement and head scraping will be in order.

Anyway can someone please help me navigate this impossible instructions in poorly translated English.

When I turn right the tank turns left in the Second control option with the stick 1 (left side stick) used for forward and back and the left and right being turret functions.

Then stick 2 (right side) being elevation for main armament up and down. Then tracks left and right.
BUT they seemed to be mixed with right and left going opposite directions.

Have I lost my mind I have contacted AliExpress for communication with Toucan as this is a brand new product.

I have ordered from Haya a TK50 battle board special Haya Centurion edition that I'm aware has the servo function disabled and possibly needs the SONY remote to program it.

[tankme]

The motors used in the Heng Long/Taigen/Torro/Haya tanks are "brushed" motors. Brushed motors change direction when the polarity of the voltage changes. To simplify that, when it gets +7.4V, it goes forward. When it gets -7.4V, it goes in reverse. Either way, it's getting 7.4V. That means that you can change the positive and negative wires to the motors in any combination you want without damaging the main board or the motors. In other words, you can connect red to black and black to red. You can also swap motors between the M1 to M2 ports to get them to go in the right directions also without any risk of damage. It's rare to have this from the factory as you would assume the person testing the tank would have corrected it, but it is what it is. It more commonly happens when people upgrade their motors and the new motors have the red/black wires soldered on in reverse from the original motor.

BrushLESS motors are a completely different animal and work differently.