Torro tank being weird

[Jib]

Then maybe the run it off the common positive for the turret. If I remember correctly the elevation motor and Airsoft motor in Taigen/Torro tanks are run off of the same common positive, and they each have their own negative wire that controls when they’re active. The positive for the Airsoft also runs through the safety switch, so that it has to be on for the Airsoft motor to function. Because there is Airsoft there will also be a separate two wire plug that goes into the V3 that is the limit switch on the airsoft until, which tells the V3 when to cut power to the airsoft motor.

I bet whatever powers the, I guessing there’s an extra board in there, gun smoke unit is done off of the positive that is used for the Airsoft motor and elevation motor.

I’m not sure what that other two wire JST plug is for though.

When you fire the airsoft, do you hear a little buzzing sound? The air pumps that are usually used for gun smoke kind of make a buzzing or whirring sound when they’re active are on. It would only be for like a second or two. Just wondering if the gunsmoke unit is active but the heater is not?

The gunsmoke module shown on rctank.de doesn’t appear to have a switch, but there may be more to the module than is in the picture.

https://www.rctank.de/Taigen-servo-and ... cuit-board

https://www.rctank.de/Gun-smoke-module ... oil-system

[HERMAN BIX]

Thats great info Mr Jib.
This one does not use servos.
The elevation is the old scroll type that has to cycle all the way for elevation & depression, and the airsoft has the tang on the back of it to pick the scroll up.
It has no recoil at all.

From what I can gather, the I.R. & flash Torros have the smoke active, where the BBs dont.
That redundant JST plug I can confirm has simply no where to plug into., well, not in the MFU anyway.
It could possibly be for a socket inside the turret, but I am a bit reluctant to go into that without some sort of prior understanding of the Torro set up in there.

[Jib]

So for what it’s worth, in all of my Airsoft Taigen/Torro tanks, the green, blue, and yellow wires are all together in a three pin JST plugged into the upper turret hull daughter board.

Instead here you have a black, red, and yellow plug where I have a green, blue, and yellow plug in mine. I am 99% positive that these three wires are the elevation negative, common positive, and the Airsoft negative, not necessarily in that order though.

It could be that capping and tying the blue and green were their way of “capping off” unused wires? Seems like they would’ve just installed a smaller slip ring if this is done at the factory.

If there is indeed a smoke heater in the turret, this might be something done post factory? You could easily use a HL unit to do this in a Taigen/Torro tank provided you can run 5-6V to the gun smoke controller.

[Stormbringer]

Hi mr Bix
heres a link to ali for the henglong slipring cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009 ... in_prod%3A

I would assume the taigen may be similar and it may be tucked up inside the turret along with the extra lengths of wire

[Jib]

So I think I know what’s going on with the wires, but not the switch.

So Taigen/Torro will often combine the positive wire for multiple things and then have separate negatives, whereas HL is usually good about having a separate wire pair for each component, so the diagram of the HL 360 may not align with what you have there.

If you look at the picture of the Elmod turret connection wiring table below, you can see this how Taigen/Torro have a common positive for things in the hull (lights, MG) and things in the turret (AS motor, elevation motor).

So looking at the number of wires coming out of the slip ring I believe what that unconnected wire probably is is the Airsoft limit switch. When the plunger of the Airsoft unit is pulled back, the limit switch is closed and that tells the V3 to stop sending power to the Airsoft motor. The plunger releases and the limit switch is open again, the motor is off, and it’s ready to fire again.

You said that you fired the Airsoft already and saw no issues, so if this is the case I’m wondering why you didn’t hear the plunger clicking over and over again, which is what will happen, instead of clicking once. Because that wire is zip tied up there, I’m guessing it came that way, which is all the more intriguing.

If there is a gun smoke unit up there, I’m wondering how it is powered. While you could use the common positive to the turret to power it, it would still need its separate negative to power at least the heater….

Unless the whole thing is tied to the Airsoft motor. It might be that the heater, blower, and Airsoft motor are all tied together. So I guess what would happen is when you pull the trigger to shoot, the shooting circuit is now complete and the Airsoft motor, the smoke heater, and the air pump all turn on at the same time. Then when the limit switch is closed, the V3 shuts off power to the shooting circuit and the Airsoft motor, smoke heater, and air pump all turn off at the same time. So if this is the case there might not be a gun smoke controller card.

I usually make it so that the heater is always on and the air pump and Airsoft plunger (or usually in my models the recoil servo) activate at the same time. However, it doesn’t usually take long for the heater to start generating smoke, so maybe just turning it on at the same time as the Airsoft motor gives it just enough time to generate some smoke. It may not be very visible though, as the smoke won’t really have time to build up since the air pump is also going at the same time.

To see if the air pump is going, I would unplug the speaker and then shoot the gun and listen for a little whirring sound of the air pump.

If you are brave, you can see if the barrel has that smoke oil smell after you fire it, indicating that smoke may have traveled up the barrel, but maybe wasn’t thick enough to actually see.

Below are some connection diagrams for the Airsoft in the V3. I bet that blue green wire pair is the limit switch. I wonder why the Airsoft was functioning correctly without it though? I guess even with the limit switch unplugged it would still fire the Airsoft ball, just the plunger would click over and over, it might fire multiple balls too, if you have more than one in the hopper. I think that sometimes the MFUs have a timer cutoff for the Airsoft motor power just in case the limit switch gets unplugged.

Hope this helps

[Deathcrusher]

Thank you soooooo much for the help! I feel like i got really unlucky with the tank i bought. (Didn't know this thread was still active XD)

[Deathcrusher]

I have messaged you specifically Herman with a manual for the Torro tank, were i bought it from was a little misleading as i was hoping that both IR and BB torro tank got the recoil but apparently only the IR version had it. I am trying to look for a upper hull for it thats already painted in the 1944 easter front camo (IR version) but they are all unpainted and to get the IR version of the turret painted i would need to by a whole new tank which obviously i do not want to do as i have already thrown enough money at the tank.

On the topic of damage caused by shipping, the punched in smoke lever was done by shipping as well as the rear track cover snapping off as they were very loose (rear track cover) which im assuming it shouldn't have been so i glued it on both of them as just driving the tank they would slide out. After driving though i realized how much they would catch on everything and bend but they never snapped or deformed so i left them.

Again but thank you so much as without you i wouldve had to spend more money on the tank, that i don't have. Thank you to all of you.

[HERMAN BIX]

I’m sure you are well parented & it shows by your respectful expression of thanks.
This group is very united in offering assistance to members that reciprocate the effort & contrbute ongoing.

I will get this KT of yours sorted, it’s almost finished.

[Deathcrusher]

Thank you sooooo much but that sound with the motor is it just normal? it just sounds a lot like something is wrong as the very loud sound from the motor it started to occur randomly and was specific to one motor, if it helps running it at max speed was when the sound was the loudest.

[HERMAN BIX]

The left side gearbox was very tight.
New tanks are quite clanky but calm down with use.
I did adjust the motor on its mounting screws a bit and have used high quality grease on both & tun the thing flat out a lot in a right turn to get the left box a bit bedded in.
The tracks also have a big effect on the output of the gears & sounds it makes correspondingly.
Those are now well adjusted and don’t bind or flap when engaging the teeth.

All I have left is to sort the starter switch on the Tx and see about the gun barrel smoke and you can have it back .
I have a mate with a same tank in bits so I might be able to nab his tx to replace yours if I can’t replace that switch.