1/30 HL M4 Sherman upgrade to 2s, suspension mods, Lipo LV alarm

[modler]

There are two models available in this scale (1/30) by Heng long. It comes with a 600 mAh 1s lipo and is a IR battle tank that works good.

the Bad:
There are only two models available and both are US Tanks Anyway, The Sherman M4 is an interesting model and is Hobby grade as it comes completely apart and is easy to service and keep running. The thing I did not like was it seems kinda jerky at low speed with the stock 1s 600mAh lipo and really runs best wide open IMO. If running outside in the dirt, the excessive torque seems to work good.

With a 3 cell 600mAh nimh battery, the Sherman runs very smooth even at low speed.

Upgrade time:
I bought some spare HL circuit boards for my HL 1/24 Tanks and got the idea to switch out the stock Sherman 1s circuit board with a 1/24 2s circuit board The reason I did this is then I can swap the stock twin 130 motors (about 1.5 ohms) to 7.0 ohms 130 motors that should be more in tune with smooth DP throttle.

Well I did the 7.0 ohm motor swap and reassembled everything with the new 2s circuit board which is pretty much the same board as the 1s board so its plug and play swap.

The result was very good and now the DP throttle works as one would expect it to.

I also added a aircraft lipo alarm mod which has programmable voltage alarm setpoint and is very loud so it can be heard from for a long distance. The Tank now uses a 800mAh 2s lipo which gives the Tank a decent run time.

Oh, I also did a simple mode to the suspension that mods it from very slight to decent movement.

Feel free to ask about points of interest and I will elaborate on that point.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

I am always amazed by your electronic wizardry! That LiPo alarm is a good idea. I just ordered four new Admiral 7000 2s 7.4v Li-ion batteries from Motion RC. The Li-ion battery I have been using in my M10 charges well and lasts. I doesn't need a low charge alarm, does it?
Those 1/30 tracks with the "half-pads" are unusual.
"...really runs best wide open": you are referring to one of the cars in the photos, right?

[modler]

I am always amazed by your electronic wizardry! That LiPo alarm is a good idea. I just ordered four new Admiral 7000 2s 7.4v Li-ion batteries from Motion RC. The Li-ion battery I have been using in my M10 charges well and lasts. I doesn't need a low charge alarm, does it?
Those 1/30 tracks with the "half-pads" are unusual.
"...really runs best wide open": you are referring to one of the cars in the photos, right?

2s 7000mAh you say or is 7000 the model number? The small lipos I use are easily degraded if run below a certain voltage level so that is why I like the LV alarm. I am using a 2s 800mAh in this 1/30 Sherman as that is the largest battery that will fit in there. A lot of plastic was removed in the battery hold to even get that small battery to fit. I will be doing the same LV alarm upgrade in my 1/24 Tanks which use 2s 1800mAh Lipos.

Yes those are non stock looking tracks on this Sherman. These tracks have a center ridge on the track which makes them "live track" for better track stability. This Sherman does not throw its tracks easily. The suspension bogies are also not stock looking with "leaf springs" instead of vertical springs used in the M4A3.

Oh yes the cars in the background pictures do run best wise open. I am currently restoring a black 68 Dodge Charger 440 (full scale) that runs very well wide open

[Ecam]

68 Charger? That is a bunch of sheet metal especially those rear fenders! And in black? That is a what I call a restoration. I had a 68 and 70 both R/Ts. 69s were hard to come by in Southern California in the early eighties as a show about a jumping Dodge was being filmed.

I've never gave much thought to working in a scale other than 16th, that is, before your threads.

[PainlessWolf]

Good Morning,
Very nice work upgrading the Sherman 1/30 scale tank. I have one of the originals from this Series (solid road wheels. Swiveling, spring load bogies, and the basic gun flash and up/down of the main gun) To use replacement tracks, I have to clip off all of the center track guides. New tracks work well after that. About time for a new Battery on it. Thanks for the cool update on these neat, '1st Shermans from Henglong'
regards,
Painless

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Gee, modler, there must be an appropriate forum section for photos of your Charger ("Other Scales?" ). I have a friend whose garages hold 17 times that number of MoPars, either original or impeccably restored right down to the correct amount of overspray under the hood. He also has a wing car in restoration with all matching serial numbers. Those are in addition to at least 7,500 toy cars, trucks, and farm toys Long ago he was a low-paid night time radio DJ, but he married an obliging woman who inherited half of a construction business. Poor guy!

[modler]

68 Charger? That is a bunch of sheet metal especially those rear fenders! And in black? That is a what I call a restoration. I had a 68 and 70 both R/Ts. 69s were hard to come by in Southern California in the early eighties as a show about a jumping Dodge was being filmed.

I've never gave much thought to working in a scale other than 16th, that is, before your threads.

Thanks Ecam for letting me know that Sometimes smaller is the way to go if you like variety and there seems to be an endless variety of models in the 1/35 scale. One of my recent 1\35 model builds a Japan ww2 Type 97 converted to RRC was a breakthrough in 1\35 builds as there is very little room for a driveline in that particular model and many more like it. The satisfaction is seeing it animated as a RRC Tank is what keeps me in this small model realm

The same can not be said (small) for the 68 Charger as it is a BIG car and has many complicated body lines and it is a chore to get it all lined up. It is getting new full quarters. The rest of the body is good including original floor plans.

I will send a picture via PM if possible of its current state of restoration.

[Ecam]

Both of my B bodies came from (and I lived in) So. California. So I didn't have to deal with rust, and frankly at the time they weren't that old (12-14 y). Paid $600 for the 68 and $3200 for the 70. My how times have changed.

Type 97! I thought of trying that in 16th but felt it was going to be too small to pull it off!

[modler]

Both of my B bodies came from (and I lived in) So. California. So I didn't have to deal with rust, and frankly at the time they weren't that old (12-14 y). Paid $600 for the 68 and $3200 for the 70. My how times have changed.

Type 97! I thought of trying that in 16th but felt it was going to be too small to pull it off!

Yep, very little room for a driveline in there. In my mind, it is one of the best looking Tanks of ww2, right next to the British Crusader Mk III.

[modler]

68 Charger? That is a bunch of sheet metal especially those rear fenders! And in black? That is a what I call a restoration. I had a 68 and 70 both R/Ts. 69s were hard to come by in Southern California in the early eighties as a show about a jumping Dodge was being filmed.

I've never gave much thought to working in a scale other than 16th, that is, before your threads.

Thanks Ecam for letting me know that Sometimes smaller is the way to go if you like variety and there seems to be an endless variety of models in the 1/35 scale. One of my recent 1\35 model builds a Japan ww2 Type 97 converted to RRC was a breakthrough in 1\35 builds as there is very little room for a driveline in that particular model and many more like it. The satisfaction is seeing it animated as a RRC Tank is what keeps me in this small model realm

The same can not be said (small) for the 68 Charger as it is a BIG car and has many complicated body lines and it is a chore to get it all lined up. It is getting new full quarters. The rest of the body is good including original floor pans.

I will send a picture via PM if possible of its current state of restoration.