Tiger I Late #133 Normandy Taigen/TK7.0 swap

[Herr Dr. Professor]

MrChef: Given that the prototypes were Zimmerit-covered, perhaps the original sprayed numbers had slightly fuzzy edges, making your practice run shown in the photo actually quite authentic. In 1/35, that level of fuzz would be noticeable, but in 1/16, it might be just right. In fact, spraying aircraft camouflage in 1/48, many modelers use a raised stencil to get some degree of fuzzy edges. I wonder what others think.

[jfulls94]

Late to the party on the this threat, I absolutely love that Camo very well done

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[MrChef]

MrChef: Given that the prototypes were Zimmerit-covered, perhaps the original sprayed numbers had slightly fuzzy edges, making your practice run shown in the photo actually quite authentic. In 1/35, that level of fuzz would be noticeable, but in 1/16, it might be just right. In fact, spraying aircraft camouflage in 1/48, many modelers use a raised stencil to get some degree of fuzzy edges. I wonder what others think.

Here's an example-




Here's more practice. Both at 5 PSI, .3 needle, between 6-8" distance, directly in front.

Lower middle numbers are Ammo/Mig washable white. Thought I could clean up any leaching. Didn't really work.

Upper I used hairspray, tried to see how it would spray over the vision port. Actually better than expected. Tamiya white, touch of buff, 30/70 paint/thinner.




Sooooo, I'm now thinking of changing the font. Shooting it Nato Black as Mr.B suggested for the crosses. Then using a fine tip white oil pen to outline it...

[MrChef]

Late to the party on the this threat,

Hayyyy Don't threaten me

I absolutely love that Camo very well done

Thank you. I'm pretty happy with it too.

[HERMAN BIX]

Incredible demonstration of just how one paint or another, one setting of pressure or distance or another, one thinning ratio or another can have such an effect on the result.
Make a body appreciate the work that the experts do eh!
Your still ahead of me mate, never used a stencil as such though I have made crosses by using masking tape to form a rudimentary version !
The work I did on my 111 Panther was hair raising over the zimmerit, but mine was not the Taigen stuff which is a lot deeper.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

MrChef: the "3s" upper left are quite crisp, but not fuzz free. Those would be my choice.
Herman Bix: I admire your resourcefulness at creating the cross: I would think Tamiya masking tape with its various widths and flexibility would work well.

[MrChef]

The unit number stencil practice continues.

2 different results. I had thought of doing the numbers black with white outline. The Black numbers didn't turn out well IMO. likely because I was listening to a method I saw on a Youtube video which suggested small bursts of paint instead of a steady stream. Then the white outline didnt help matters it looks like a 1st grader would have done better.

Everything shot at 5PSI with a .3 needle as before.



I do not like how these black ones came out. BTW Mr. Bix this is Nato black 30/70, paint/thinner.



Then I thought of shooting red numbers which I had previously dismissed. This was 40/60 ratio.



I think I really like the red numbers.

So I decided to see if I'd like them with white outline which BTW is not fun or easy to do. I'm using an oil marker with an extra fine tip for the White outline. I'm undecided but I think it looks cleaner in just red. Also the Oil markers can be thinned and cleaned up or removed if I decided to go that way.



This time I also sprayed differently. I kept a soft constant application of the paint and actually drew the numbers with the airbrush over the stencils like connect the dots.

So Now I really like the way the Red alone looks. I like the stencils and font I chose. I'm undecided on the white outline.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

The red does look best, with the red outlined with oil marker coming in second. Cheese-whiz, it's a tricky task. Hang in there, as you get better with each step.

[MrChef]

Big steps here. And the beginning of the end. Should be done by the end of the month.

Ok first the Decals I got from Dave at Forgebear. I used them because they worked well the last couple of times I've used them. And The Balkenkreuz would absolutely not have looked how I wanted if I used Stencils for them. The Das Reich marking and Schwere unit designation are more for my entertainment as the front plate markings will be covered up by the hanging spare tracks.

Now, Decals with this Zimmerit is Not easy. I utilized Micro-Sol and Micro-Set to get them to conform. Without using the Micro-Set they Absolutely wouldn't have worked out. I may actually still apply more Micro-Set tomorrow. There's a hairline tear in one of the crosses but I'll fix it with a black oil pen.

Annnnnd the unit numbers. I used 70/30 X20A thinner to Tammy Flat Red paint at 7 PSI, .3 needle directly perpendicular about 6" away. I set the flow on the brush to just slightly more than where I sprayed the camouflage. I traced the numbers thrice. Now what I did differently compared to my practice runs was I used a stick and fingers to press the stencil as tight as possible against the surface when painting trying to minimize over spray and shadowing. I'm very happy how the red looks and placement. I'll continue to debate the white outline but I don't think I want to muck it up so it's likely staying this way.

[Rob59]

Well, first of all I think your brush job ain‘t bad at all!!
Wish I could brush tactical numbers like that.
Decals or airbrushing on Zimmerit is always a bit tricky.
I do have a late Tiger one too, and I added some decals onto it.
First clearcoat gloss, micro sol and micro set, and in the end a coat of clear coat matt.
Pushed the decals into the grooves with a q-tip while still wett.
Worked out pretty good, at least for me…..

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