Amateur Build. HAYA Centurion KIT

[Meter rat]

Zooma. I have really enjoyed this build, and the way you have developed new skills.

[Ecam]

I don’t know whether to be flattered, or offended.

Flattered for sure. You like to speak of you ineptness yet you turn out some outstanding work on a regular basis.

[Meter rat]

I don’t know whether to be flattered, or offended.

Flattered for sure. You like to speak of you ineptness yet you turn out some outstanding work on a regular basis.

I am very self deprecating, tis true. My work is poor in comparison to your models.

[zooma]

Hi jarndice, following your helpful contribution regarding the Centurion pick axe handles, I have changed the pick axe handle ends to have a metallic end "look" over the swollen area that would be drifted into the axe head.

I can take a look at the actual area of the shaft that was clad in steel when I can find some pictures that show it, but my guess is that it will be the section that I have re-coloured ?

Since I had a small paint brush in my hand, I decided to re-colour the tow top "binding cleats" to a dark green colour. I still have no idea what colour these should really be, but the green looks more likely than the rust colour that my previous pictures show .....but I will keep looking for pictures that clarify this as it is pure guesswork on my part.

Thanks for the info that you have provided since I started this build - you were there in Berlin and saw these tanks in real life at the time so your contributions really are appreciated.

Bob.

Although I took these last two pictures in darker conditions, its surprising how phone pictures help to identify poor work. I can now see the tow rope detailing at the back of the tank looks a bit rough - I will try to refine and improve this the next time I get a paint brush out.

[jarndice]

[Herr Dr. Professor]

I see what you mean by the "rough" tow cables at the rear of the Centurion. Egad, that is such a minor bit compared to the mastery of it all. Yes, photos show a lot; indeed, they are merciless. I use seven-power goggles made for modelers so I can see errors right away: that way I can feel all the more incompetent.

[zooma]

I see what you mean by the "rough" tow cables at the rear of the Centurion. Egad, that is such a minor bit compared to the mastery of it all. Yes, photos show a lot; indeed, they are merciless. I use seven-power goggles made for modelers so I can see errors right away: that way I can feel all the more incompetent.

I have tidied them up a bit now Prof........as far as my arthritic and shaking hands will allow - good job it is only stand-off scale!

Seven power goggles would magnify my shaking hands - I have enough problems seeing the movement with normal old age vision!

I always try to find something to rest my hand on when it has a small paintbrush in its clutches - anything will do (depending on the height of the part I am hoping to aim the paint at) and it does help to stabilise the shakes quite a bit.

When the spray masks and decals arrive I will blend them in to the paintwork and finish the weathering.

I need to find a way of reducing the gap (to zero) where the glacis plate fits the lower hull. There is always a gap here on the HAYA Centurions (my RTR HAYA Cent is exactly the same) that looks ugly, so I want to find a way of removing it.

Pushing down on the glacis plate closes the gap - so maybe it is being "held-off" and I can cut the top off of the large locating "tongue" to allow the deck to "sit" down more?

[Herr Dr. Professor]

"I always try to find something to rest my hand on when it has a small paintbrush in its clutches": yes, I rest the piece, too. I usually don't shake too much, but my (lack of) eyesight makes up for that.

"I need to find a way of reducing the gap (to zero) where the glacis plate fits the lower hull." I am finding this to be a characteristic of RTR TongDe tanks, and I may have experienced the same with Andrew Haya's Centurion. On some RTR tank, I recall a heavy metal plate affixed to a lower hull into which plate the glacis was to slide. I think I removed and flattened the plate a bit by pressing it slowly, a smidge at a time, in a big bench vise.

I keep looking at the tiny bared "metal" spots on your Centurion. They seem so realistic to me. I imagine a coat of "steel" paint under the base coat, with the based coat just rubbed lightly on the edges of castings and parts.

[zooma]

Hi Prof,

The hull mounting for the HAYA Centurion is a moulded tongue, so I would not be able to bend it downwards, but I am hoping to be able to file some material off of its length to allow the glacis plate to sit down onto the hull better.

.........failing that - I may think about your idea and replace the moulded plastic tongue with one made from alloy or brass sheet.

Bob.

[ongbenghui]

The hull mounting for the HAYA Centurion is a moulded tongue, so I would not be able to bend it downwards, but I am hoping to be able to file some material off of its length to allow the glacis plate to sit down onto the hull better.

I did a 3d printed option that is of a slightly tigher fit with the intent to enforce the side as well. See https://cults3d.com/:2317126

Your paint work is really good. I simply love all the weathering effects and details.