[Support] M25 Dragon Wagon

[MonsieurTox]

Just for fun...

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Why do we do this hobby? To enjoy ourselves. First test of a front axle disconnect. The pillow block will not be used (white styrene part). Instead the drive shaft will run from the brass piece to the diff. I can possibly shorten it up by an inch (25mm) if needed.

Awesome Eric ! That's what I wanted to do for the propeller shaft of my DUKW but changed my mind and decided it woould be too complex and then give its own motor. But now I see this...

[Ecam]

Thank you!

If you haven't found it yet, this is one of the transfer cases I was considering for the first DUKW project. It has three outputs on one side and one on the other. Far ends would be motor in and driveshafts out, Middle one is opposite rotation and could be used for the propeller. The outputs are easy to turn around, I spun the one I was going to use on the small DUKW (was going to let it always run). The prop on the actual DUKW runs counter to driveshaft rotation. I never considered that option back then because I never thought of a disconnecting shaft system.



Here is that T-case. In/outputs can be turned around.

[MonsieurTox]

Thank you!

If you haven't found it yet, this is one of the transfer cases I was considering for the first DUKW project. It has three outputs on one side and one on the other. Far ends would be motor in and driveshafts out, Middle one is opposite rotation and could be used for the propeller. The outputs are easy to turn around, I spun the one I was going to use on the small DUKW (was going to let it always run). The prop on the actual DUKW runs counter to driveshaft rotation. I never considered that option back then because I never thought of a disconnecting shaft system.



Here is that T-case. In/outputs can be turned around.

Thanks Eric, that is the eaxact same transfer case I have installed in my DUKW ! So I still have the option to use one of the shaft if I copy your disconnecting shaft system ! (makes me think I've never posted pics of it)

[Ecam]

Copy away, pretty simple. I used a brass shaft and brass sheet so I could solder them together. The set (grub) screws that hold the adaptor to the T-case are short, the one that engages the notch is a little longer.





The square shanked setup is one of the 5 driveshafts I ordered when I first started the DUKWs.

[MonsieurTox]

Thanks for the explanations Eric, that's genius !

I have a question, the part of the universal joint (the one with the square hole) that goes through the brass tube : how does it turn ? It seems to be an aluminium bushing but is there any ball bearings inside the brass tube ? I guess so because it would turn that well if there was only aluminium as it's kind of gummy.

[Ecam]

Frankly dumb luck digging through the parts and tools. Bearings are 8mm ID and 12mm OD (no idea where they came from...). I don't have a metric set of drill bits yet but found a step drill that had a cutter just shy @ 11.87mm. Used the edge of a box cutter blade to cut the landing to accept the 12mm bearing and the steps made a great backstop for the bearings. Made a collar of aluminum (hint - drill and tap, then do the cutting). The brass bar used to be a punch/drift out in the garage, but in the past couple years it has been getting used in the tank shop (these days about half the length it used to be).

[MonsieurTox]

That's what I thought ! It makes sense ! Thanks, Eric.

[Ecam]

The actuator. The box at the right with the ball floats on the slide link allowing some movement of the link when the servo is at full travel.

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[Ecam]

Last picture and video of the front axle disconnect. Servo is not powered here (finger push).

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[HERMAN BIX]

I want the Kool-aid you've been on mate !!
Very well thought out and executed.