Tamiya M26 Pershing

[r32]

Some newer photos of my tank, now doing regular battles and collecting its share of battle scars. The plan is to let it get naturally weathered instead of applying too much to it. In any case it is a "plain Jane" tank compared to the rest which have all manner of ammo boxes, K-ration crates, etc. As it is in WW2 markings (yes I know they didn't have telephone boxes at the back till Korea) I left it like it might have looked just coming off the boat from the US.

[Steenv]

yep - looks good 

[thecommandernj]

Looks Good....
    How did you like the cramped wiring inside the Pershing? It requires getting the wiring just right if under the turret if you want to battle effectively. It has great speed for its class.  Bob    thecommandernj

[r32]

I use a bit of fibreglass tape to make sure the wire bundle stays within the clip. If it strays out, it impedes the barrel elevation.


More fibreglass tape to make sure the extra wires stay where they should. I'm definitely not one of the best examples of wiring hygiene


I use the fender boxes to actually store some odds and ends tools


The two most used tools - the plastic driver for turning the volume up outdoors, and the metal screwdriver for taking off the skirts - a must if I want to remove the tracks or chassis

[Ad Lav]

Looks really smart, needs a touch of paint weathering though... I know you said nature can weather it but it'll get a bit muddy/smelly and rub off indoors surely?

Thought of using a pigment and thinners for subtle dust? Just my $2...

[r32]

I did - I actually have a set of Tamiya's Weathering Kit. I used the soot colour on the exhaust outlet, and sealed the colour in with a good coat of Gunze Sangyo's flat clearcoat. I found that it was harder to simulate the mud, rust and paint chips, and ended up rubbing them out. Being from an RC, rather than a modelling background, I am not that adventurous with weathering techniques but I'm getting inspired by what I'm seeing around these forums and I might try something one of these days - perhaps just applying clearcoat over stuck-on natural mud!

[thecommandernj]

What a great idea on the tools. I flip mine over at least once a weekend so that won't work for me. I like the idea of the tape. nice work.  Bob

[r32]

I have the lids lined with thin double-sided tape which do an adequate job of keeping the lid on till I actually need to open it.

Wiring it was a challenge because of the weak clutch of the traverse motor, as there is very little clearance between the turret base and the DMD unit box top considering the huge bundle of wires. I already have it easy because I am using a 2.4ghz system and need not run my antenna into the turret. Any little bit of drag will cause the turret to become stuck. I also rubbed dry wax off a candle around the turret ring groove where the three ball bearings run on to cut down on friction.

[thecommandernj]

I have the lids lined with thin double-sided tape which do an adequate job of keeping the lid on till I actually need to open it.

Wiring it was a challenge because of the weak clutch of the traverse motor, as there is very little clearance between the turret base and the DMD unit box top considering the huge bundle of wires. I already have it easy because I am using a 2.4ghz system and need not run my antenna into the turret. Any little bit of drag will cause the turret to become stuck. I also rubbed dry wax off a candle around the turret ring groove where the three ball bearings run on to cut down on friction.

          I have also lined the top of hull where the turret rubs with shinney scotch tape to reduce drag. If you find the rotation unit to wimpy there are two options you may try. Buy the solid "blue" gear for the rotation unit to eliminate slippage or glue the cutch gear solid. I found the glued gear troublesome and used a fine pointed soldering iron to "weld" the clutch gear together in 3 or 4 spots. No more slippage duing battles and you can often spin the turret manually as before w/o too much difficulty.    Bob thecommandernj