Amateur Build. HAYA Centurion KIT

[tankme]

I also don't think the supports would look good with the skirts off as they aren't accurate or scale to the model. Plus I think they would snap off while running if they weren't connected to the skirts.

[zooma]

Hi Derek,

I have been looking at a lot of Centurion pictures today - mainly those with the bazooka plates removed and I have found quite few tanks running without these support struts fitted and quite a lot of pictures with them fitted.

This would tend to suggest that these struts must be bolted into place and not welded, so it must have been possible to remove them and refit them as preferred or required.

Basically there is proof that it would be 'scale like" to run a Centurion both with and without these struts fitted - and luckily on the HAYA Centurion they are only a push fit (!) so it would be easy to run the model with and without them fitted with only a few minutes work to swap from running either way.

If I decide to run my Centurion with these struts fitted I would want to re-model the ends to more closely resemble the real thing.

The HAYA struts end with a flat pad to locate nicely against the inner surface of the bazooka plates (skirts), whereas the full size struts are shaped entirely differently with (what looks like) some sort of bayonet type fitting to plug into the armoured side plates (skirts) when they are re-fitted.

Until I can see some detailed close-up pictures of these strut endings, I think the model would look better without them fitted as having the flat square plates showing between the wheels would look distinctly "odd".

My last thoughts are that very few people would notice if the tank was being run without the side struts (bazooka plate supports) being fitted - but some enthusiasts would notice if it was being run with three flat square plates sticking out on each side (!) so I have decided to run my HAYA Centurion without the side struts fitted (for now).

......but I will look at reshaping the ends (when I can find a suitable reference to their actual shapes) with a view to push fitting them back into place once they have been remodelled and look correct.

Bob.

[zooma]

I have been looking at pictures of Centurions running without their side skirts fitted - but with the support struts still attached.

What I have not been able to find is any clear pictures of the "bayonet" ends that pass through the armour plate when it is re-fitted.

On a similar note - I would like to add the small mounting plates (two per panel) that would be more clearly visible now that I have chopped the skirts/bazooka plates off.

If anyone can direct me to any clear pictures of either of these two items it would be appreciated.

[zooma]

I have threaded the two headlight bulb legs through the glacis plate, but before I solder them together I want to test them each individually to make sure that they are working OK.

The long leg of the bulb has been pushed into the positive (red) socket and the short leg has been pushed into the negative (black) socket of a servo extension lead so I just need to know what voltage I should connect to the lead to test the bulb without burning it out.

I did try connecting it to an AA battery and it didn't work, but I am guessing it needs a higher voltage to illuminate it.

[tankme]

I have two AA batteries taped together in series (end to end) to produce 3V. 3V is usually what an LED runs off of. It just ends up being a long AA basically.

[zooma]

Thanks Derek.

I like good simple solutions and I will give yours a go.

UPDATE.

Your idea worked perfectly - and both of my LED's light up.

Now I know that the bulbs are OK and working, I can take a look at finding some thin wire to solder the two + positive legs together (and the two - negative legs together) and then fit the lead that will connect them to the Clark board.

Bob.

[zooma]

Two AA batteries, a small length of masking tape, and a servo extension lead make an effective LED test kit that works well.

The idea of taping two AA batteries together to give the required 3V was given to me by tankme and it is such a nice simple solution, I thought I would picture it and share it here.

Combine this good idea with a spare extension lead to plug the LED into and it becomes very good little test rig..

Plugging the longer LED leg (+ positive) into the red extension lead socket, and the shorter (- negative) leg into the black socket secures the LED bulb securely enough to hold it while touching the bare black and red wire ends onto the correct polarity terminals of the temporary AA battery pack to light the LED.

Even better is that when the LED testing is completed, the batteries and the extension lead can be used for something else - simples !

[jarndice]

Has anyone else noticed that the Tongde Centurion is longer by 10mm than the Haya Centurion BUT the Haya Centurion is wider than the Tongde Centurion.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Each month for over 23 years, another nut case named Rick Campbell and I have prepared and written monthly reviews of farm equipment models. Over those years, we have seen a dramatic change in the products, from toy-like items for children to fragile shelf models for the same children as they have grown old. Despite the remarkable increase in the models' accuracy and detail, despite our even offering in our reviews tables comparing the dimensions of models to those of the the prototypes, we know that finally there must be compromises to adjust for material characteristics (zinc alloys, steel, various sorts of plastics), compromises for manufacturing, compromises for shipping durability and so much more. We often remind our readers of these needs.
For RC AFVs, add to those needs added durability and room for electronics and motors. I expect even more deviations from strict accuracy. Certainly any replica should be authentic, and can be so. Even designers of static models (the kind we put on shelves or even in clear display cases) must make compromises. To some extent, just as jarndice suggests here, part of the fun of these modeling hobbies is seeing different designs, different "interpretations." One of my dreams is that Rick and I might someday finish all our reviews with an interview with someone experience with design of farm toys and models. As reviewers, we would be fascinated by their perspective and experiences.

[zooma]

I am away at the moment Prof - but if you can let me have a link I would like to read your farm equipment reviews.