Painting HL Abrams

[Jib]

Hello, I’m trying to decide what kind of primer or under coat to use for the HL 1/16 Abrams tank.

My plan is not to go into too much detail with chipping and weathering and such, and just let normal wear and tear do this for me, just do some pin washes and maybe some engine smoke/motor oil black around the grill where the smoke comes out.

I had originally thought to use some kind of rust colored primer, but this seemed out of place on a modern tank. What color do you think would look good under the main coat (Tamiya Light Sand is what is recommended in Tamiya’s manual, although this is a Henglong model). I also have a texture kit from VMS coming in the mail.

Or is the whole point moot, that both paints will easily scratch off and I’ll be left with whatever the material is underneath (since it’s a Henglong it’s a mix of plastic and metal).

My plan was to texture (no slip texture) ->primer (color?)->undercoat (color?) ->varnish->top coat (light sand)->pin wash/detailing->varnish

Is this a decent plan? The idea is to keep it simple since this is going to be a working tank, not a shelf warmer. I’m waiting on some custom daughter boards to come in before I reinstall all of the electronics, so I figured this is a good time to paint while I wait.

I’m really itching to get it back together, but I’d like to get it painted first so I don’t have to take it all apart again. I’m trying to get it done before November, was planning on taking it to the Armored Calvary museum open house at Fort Moore (formerly Fort Benning) on November 2nd for their model show.

Let me know your thoughts and ideas!

[tankme]

From a guy who used to work in the Lima plant where the Abrams was made:

"Hi guys,

The Primer was red oxide, but with a strange "rubbery" texture to it, kind of hard to explain. The color was a little brighter than Tamiya Hull red acrylic.

Hull and turret welded subassemblies were sent to the paint room after machining (and for the turrets, before the armor room). They received the base coat of red oxide primer, then a coat of Army green (for lack of a better term). The hull interior and turret interior were primed, baked and coated with gloss white. A temporary factory number was stenciled on the hull sponsons and the turret glacis. Then these hulls and turrets were delivered to thier respective assembly lines to be completed.

Hope this answers the question.

Cheers,
Steve"

[Jib]

Okay then, red oxide it is. Then maybe “army green” and then light sand on top?

With a layer of varnish in between each or just between the green and sand?

[ColemanCollector]

I wouldn't use any varnishes, certainly not over the primer--its job is to provide a key for the paint you're putting on. I don't think I'd bother with the green, just go to sand unless you're OK with green showing through the natural chipping you're figuring will happen through use. Are you rattlecanning it, or have an airbrush?

One thing to consider is that a RC tank doesn't really "scale" weather like a real tank. The tracks do to an extent, but the hull and turret not so much. Why not weather it down to a finish you like, then clearcoat it and go tanking? But that's just me because it is definitely your tank to enjoy!

Mike.

[Jib]

Yeah I talked to a guy at my local hobby shop and he said the same thing about the varnish and skipping the green.

I am rattle canning it. I have an airbrush, but I haven’t used it in about 3-4 years and it scares me because I suck at it. I don’t usually enjoy painting, which is probably a silly thing to say for this hobby, but maybe once I start the process I will learn to enjoy it. That is why I want to just keep it simple and get it done I suppose.

Also, the last time I drove my tanks I managed to barrel roll one of them, so never say never on turret weathering. But probably not the kind of wear pattern that you normally see on tanks.

Thank you for the advice! I’ll see how it goes once I get started.

[Meter rat]

This is my way of doing it. Not saying it is the right way.
Get a big rattle cans of etch primer, matt black, and red oxide primer from a car shop, like Halfords. Thin coat of etch first. Allow to dry for 24 hours. Overcoat with the red oxide and again give it 24 hours. If you have an air brush this will be easier to do. Preshade, all the grills and panel gaps with matt black. It can be done with rattle can but this is a bit more work, as masking is required. Crack out the top coat, either rattle can or air brush. Try to vary the paint so the black preshading shows through. Allow it all to dry. Apply any markings. If you are using water slide transfers, use gloss varnish under them. Then if you want gloss varnish the whole model to seal it all. Do all your weathering, and seal with matt varnish. Mr tank a lot does some excellent videos. These aer for his Abrams and T72.

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[tankme]

Varnish or clear lacquer coats are used to seal a paint job before weathering or decal application. The reason to seal is because some weathering products will activate your paint causing a muddled up mess and the varnish creates a smooth surface to apply decals/weathering. Typically though if you use say an enamel for the paint job, you are safe with weathering with acrylics over the top as they won't interact.

[Jib]

Thanks for the knowledge. I know zero about mode painting and it’s a bit overwhelming. I’m trying to educate myself.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

"My plan...some pin washes and maybe some engine smoke/motor oil black around the grill where the smoke comes out." If you are unfamiliar with model painting either spray can and/or airbrush, you have a good plan there. There's nothing wrong with an Abrams in its flat desert color, looking as it came out of the factory door. You can even go back later and do some weathering when you have practice. If you want to practice inexpensively, pick up a few small toys such as those reproductions of old kits now under the "Atlantis" name or some of the simple Testor's kits, still available on eBay. I also found this freebie about painting online: https://www.testors.com/-/media/7BEF191 ... 16CFA.ashx and as you know well, YouTube is loaded with videos on painting models.

That video you posted, jib, is quite a help. "Smoke 'em if ya got 'em!"

[ColemanCollector]

Give your airbrush another go! Thin the paint to milk consistency, turn your air pressure down a bit and have a go on some practice things like HDP suggests. Even a dollar store dump truck from the beach toy section is a good victim.

I'm a very good rattlecanner from decades of practice on my used cars and other projects, but after using an airbrush this winter for really the first time, I will never ever go back to a rattlecan except maybe for a quick primer coat. So much more control over paint depth, runs, and modulation.

YMMV!

Mike.