Tracks not meshing properly

[LordLudikrous]

Hello, I’m hoping you fine folks will be able to help me as I’ve been searching through the forum to try and find a solution but have been unable to.

The short of it is my Tiger 1’s tracks are having trouble meshing with the sprocket, resulting in the track bunching back up along the sprocket before the first road wheels. This contributes to a jerky motion on the tank as it moves. You can see it in the video below. The other side doesn’t mesh perfectly either but its far worse on the left side of the tank.



I’ve had to run the tracks much looser than I’d like because it has allowed the tank to run as smooth as possible, whereas if I run the tracks tighter it results in jerky movement and a loud clicking from the tracks and sprocket. In my head this is obviously a problem with the sprocket and possibly the rest of the running gear. The problem is as you can see if you look at the thread with a build log of my tank, is that it’s a bit of a mish mash of old stuff. I’ve dug through emails to find order receipts to determine what these are as best I can.

• Asiatam lower metal hull for Heng Long Tiger – bought 2010.
• Metal road wheels upgrade set – bought as a bundle with the hull 2010.
• Improved metal gearboxes for Heng Long Tiger – bought 2010.
• Taigen metal sprockets Tiger 1 late – bought 2018.
• Taigen metal tracks for Tiger 1 late – bought 2023.

Its worth mentioning as well that I’ve got a set of metal sprockets from 2010 that are listed as for Heng Long but look exactly the same as the Taigen late ones, and a set of early Tiger 1 Heng Long metal tracks which look quite different to the Taigen ones. I’ve tried swapping these bits out and it hasn’t helped.

The motor shafts look to be running true but once the sprocket is attached it is rotating slightly off centre as you might be able to see below, so I’m hoping folks might have an idea of how to sort this out.



Really hoping someone can help me as this is driving me mad, thank you to everyone in advance.

[forgebear]

hi if you have taigen tracks and heng long sprokets the front ones somtimes dont mesh withthe tracks as the guide horns are a bit to close togther thats what will give you the clicking sound you are better to have the taigen fronts to go with the tracks also you may want to think about drive shaft surport bearings as well

[LordLudikrous]

hi if you have taigen tracks and heng long sprokets the front ones somtimes dont mesh withthe tracks as the guide horns are a bit to close togther thats what will give you the clicking sound you are better to have the taigen fronts to go with the tracks also you may want to think about drive shaft surport bearings as well

Sorry I just realised I made an error with my post which I've now corrected. The sprockets are Taigen ones being used with Taigen tracks.

[ColemanCollector]

Are these the same tracks, but now painted as seen in your smoker videos in the build thread?

[LordLudikrous]

They are yes, I gave them a drybrush so wouldn't didn't get stuck into any moving parts.

[MrChef]

Are these the same tracks, but now painted as seen in your smoker videos in the build thread?

I think I'm thinking what you're thinking...

They are yes, I gave them a drybrush so wouldn't didn't get stuck into any moving parts.

Well something is gumming up the works since you posted the smoker video of your Tiger scooting about with no noticeable tracks binding.

Ok, the Taigen tracks on my tank have that black bronze finish which is smooth. If the only thing you've done to the tracks since the last smoker video, It is possible your drybrushing has made the sprocket holes less smooth. And I'm just guessing. If it was me I'd possibly sand the sprocket holes in the tracks Or sand/file the sprocket teeth.

But I do find after painting /weathering tracks that running them for a good bit allows things to smooth out.

And as Dave mentioned driveshaft bearings are a good easy and cheap upgrade to remove any flex that might or might not be noticeable.

I have followed your build and I hope you can solve your new niggling track issue.

[Meter rat]

Got my thick head on. Can’t find your build. Can you post a link?

[ColemanCollector]

Are these the same tracks, but now painted as seen in your smoker videos in the build thread?

I think I'm thinking what you're thinking...

They are yes, I gave them a drybrush so wouldn't didn't get stuck into any moving parts.

Well something is gumming up the works since you posted the smoker video of your Tiger scooting about with no noticeable tracks binding.

Ok, the Taigen tracks on my tank have that black bronze finish which is smooth. If the only thing you've done to the tracks since the last smoker video, It is possible your drybrushing has made the sprocket holes less smooth. And I'm just guessing. If it was me I'd possibly sand the sprocket holes in the tracks Or sand/file the sprocket teeth.

But I do find after painting /weathering tracks that running them for a good bit allows things to smooth out.

And as Dave mentioned driveshaft bearings are a good easy and cheap upgrade to remove any flex that might or might not be noticeable.

I have followed your build and I hope you can solve your new niggling track issue.

Yes, yes you are!

[Herr Dr. Professor]

And as a bonus, M'Lord, carefully sanding or even filing (just a little bit) to remove the paint and weathering from the sprocket holes will make the tracks look as if they are wearing from contacting the sprockets. I would go a tiny step farther by sanding the tips of the sprockets where they contact the tracks. (When I paint and/or weather tracks, I rub them on the concrete floor and/or sand them with a firm sanding sponge to scrape up the places where the tracks contact the ground.) So now I see another step I can take: sand the sprocket holes.) Do others think I have the right idea?

[Son of a gun-ner]

Got my thick head on. Can’t find your build. Can you post a link?

Is this the one you are searching for?

My late Tiger conversion (Taigen)
viewtopic.php?t=34395