Challenger II advice?

[Mithras]

Partner bought herself one of the deluxe Challengers from HL (steel gearbox and tracks, FPV, etc.) Is there anything we should be aware of with regards to the HL Challenger?
I haven’t seen anything particularly horrible, but I wanted to make sure.

[Meter rat]

They are prone to de-tracking, and are underpowered. Given the problems I’ve encountered with mine, it can be made into a nice model. If it’s like mine, she will learn new frustrations, but learn new skills. My build will explain all. But I love it. And have enjoyed getting it to where it is now. A lot of the guys in America run plastic tracks on metal wheels, sprockets, and idlers. I think a lot of the de-tracking problems with metal track, are down to the size of the hull and it flexing when the tension is taken up for the tracks. They need to be quite tight. I have no experience with plastic tracks, and mine has aftermarket double pin tracks for more realism. I do not think I ever ran it with the tracks it came with.

[tomhugill]

They are prone to de-tracking, and are underpowered. Given the problems I’ve encountered with mine, it can be made into a nice model. If it’s like mine, she will learn new frustrations, but learn new skills. My build will explain all. But I love it. And have enjoyed getting it to where it is now. A lot of the guys in America run plastic tracks on metal wheels, sprockets, and idlers. I think a lot of the de-tracking problems with metal track, are down to the size of the hull and it flexing when the tension is taken up for the tracks. They need to be quite tight. I have no experience with plastic tracks, and mine has aftermarket double pin tracks for more realism. I do not think I ever ran it with the tracks it came with.

I've found rear sprocket tanks will de track when one or more of these three isn't right. Track alignment, track tension or last road wheel support. If the last road wheel is allowing the track alignment to deviate away from the sprocket in turns then pull throw tracks.

I run the dual current double differential type gearboxes in my modern tanks, I've found I usually have to push the sprocket out slightly from dead centre alignment with the last road wheel. This is due to the gap the guide run in in the road wheels being a little wider than the teeth which lets alignment deviate.

With the top screwed on you shouldn't have to trouble with chassis twist but you can use resin in the lower hull to completely eliminate it, this is how I stiffen mine when I remove the battery box.

The newer challengers from HL have an adjustable idler mount which is a big help compared to the old fixed one.

[Mithras]

They are prone to de-tracking, and are underpowered. Given the problems I’ve encountered with mine, it can be made into a nice model. If it’s like mine, she will learn new frustrations, but learn new skills. My build will explain all. But I love it. And have enjoyed getting it to where it is now. A lot of the guys in America run plastic tracks on metal wheels, sprockets, and idlers. I think a lot of the de-tracking problems with metal track, are down to the size of the hull and it flexing when the tension is taken up for the tracks. They need to be quite tight. I have no experience with plastic tracks, and mine has aftermarket double pin tracks for more realism. I do not think I ever ran it with the tracks it came with.

Thanks, Meter.

Is there a trick to tensioning the tracks properly?

[Meter rat]

In all honesty, mine has been trial and error, and reading other posts on other sites. Every one has different ways of achieving the same result. I cannot afford dual action differential type gearboxes, so have worked it for myself, using the standard gearbox. Tom is more of an experienced builder than I am, so I will bow to his superior advice and knowledge. I have ensured my drive sprockets are offset from centre, by using a washer, and that the tension is correct. I adjust mine so the guide teeth are just showing at the centre of the bottom run when there is no weight on the model.

image.jpg (2.82 MiB) Viewed 727 times

Of course your partner’s will run perfectly out of the box, and not experience the frustration I’ve had with mine . And prove me wrong with everything I’ve said.

[HERMAN BIX]

Ole Murphy’s law !!

[Mithras]

In all honesty, mine has been trial and error, and reading other posts on other sites. Every one has different ways of achieving the same result. I cannot afford dual action differential type gearboxes, so have worked it for myself, using the standard gearbox. Tom is more of an experienced builder than I am, so I will bow to his superior advice and knowledge. I have ensured my drive sprockets are offset from centre, by using a washer, and that the tension is correct. I adjust mine so the guide teeth are just showing at the centre of the bottom run when there is no weight on the model.

image.jpg

Of course your partner’s will run perfectly out of the box, and not experience the frustration I’ve had with mine . And prove me wrong with everything I’ve said.

Knowing my luck, any of my models will fall apart instantly, or a critical part will be discontinued, whilst hers will still be running smoothly in thirty years;)

[Son of a gun-ner]

Partner bought herself one of the deluxe Challengers from HL (steel gearbox and tracks, FPV, etc.) Is there anything we should be aware of with regards to the HL Challenger?
I haven’t seen anything particularly horrible, but I wanted to make sure.

So, come on then, how did it run? Where are the pictures?

[Ad Lav]

Echoing Micks reply - be good to see some photos of the challenger and your other models?!

[Mithras]

Partner bought herself one of the deluxe Challengers from HL (steel gearbox and tracks, FPV, etc.) Is there anything we should be aware of with regards to the HL Challenger?
I haven’t seen anything particularly horrible, but I wanted to make sure.

So, come on then, how did it run? Where are the pictures?

Hasn’t arrived yet!