[Winter] SU76i based on a Panzer III

[jee]

Great idea from our Herr Dr to set up this group build.
I knew there was a reason why I didnt finish this build

So to present you my project, I have to go back for 2 years. At the moment I have 2 german tanks and only 1 Soviet tank. I had to find another Soviet tank to balance it. I found on Cults a nice conversion kit to update a Panzer III to a SU76i.
I bought the conversion kit, and then it took some time to find the chassis on Aliexpress. But I managed and ordered both parts seperately by the way.

After printing the conversion kit on the 3D printer, I studied the parts and decided that some of the parts were a bit to simple and rough. I designed them new and printed these.

Some pictures to show the current state:

Chassis. As you can see, some gear is still inside and that stays there and will be used except for the smoke system. Also I already removed some bodyparts, but more has to be done. Anybody who has good tips on removing the tools from the fenders, please let me know.

IMG-20231102-WA0015_cr.jpg (124.85 KiB) Viewed 2466 times

The printed conversion kit. I still want to change some parts of it, like the hatch on the back, it cant be opened, but I would like that to work.

IMG-20231102-WA0011_cr.jpg (66.96 KiB) Viewed 2466 times

Current situation, still a lot to do

IMG-20231102-WA0010_cr.jpg (96.6 KiB) Viewed 2466 times

[jee]

Some more info about the |Su76i:

The Red Army’s Panzer III 76mm SPG
The SU-76i was built or re-built by the Soviets because, while speeding up their huge production of tanks, they still faced shortages in certain areas. Furthermore, the original SU-76 model had several flaws. They were unreliable and not a pleasure to drive, so much so the Soviet tankers named it “the Bitch”. During the fall of Stalingrad, the Soviets had captured several StuG and Panzer III tank chassis in relatively good condition. With the thought of rearming them with bigger Soviet guns, they were shipped back to factory 37 at Sverdlovsk.

The SU-76i self-propelled gun was armed with a 76.2 mm (3 in) S-1 anti-tank gun
By early 1943, the Soviets had some 300 StuGs and Panzer IIIs and decided to mount 76.2 mm (3 in) Zis-3sh guns into their hulls. The resulting non-turreted tank destroyer was meant to fill in the gaps where SU-76s had been destroyed or sent back for repairs. The initial design was to mount the 76.2 mm on a semi traversable pedestal similar to early Italian TD’s, but this left the crew very exposed, more so than the SU-76, and would have left the tank defenseless against close artillery blasts and shrapnel. The gun was then to be mounted in a fixed casemate with limited traverse and a shorter, but more powerful 76.2 mm S1 gun was chosen.
Hinged pistol holes with an armored cover were inserted in the upper slab sided armor plate. This enabled the crew to fire their hand held weapons at enemy infantry that were getting too close. A vision slit was fitted above the pistol hole.
The hull mounted machine gun found on the Panzer III tank was removed on the SU-76i SPG. The driver sat on the left and had limited vision. He could only see directly ahead and to his left through an armored vision slit.
The prototypes were ready by March 1943 and sent for testing to the Sverdlovsk grounds. Even while the weather was extremely cold, with temperatures at -35 degrees Celsius, the new tanks destroyers, with their durable German components, passed the test. A few modifications were made, including oil heaters to stop the engine from freezing and other minor changes to batteries and sights. They were given the designation SU-76i, with the letter ‘I’ standing for ‘Inostrannaya’ or foreigner. It seems the hatred for Germans was even placed upon their equipment. The new SU-76i would have to prove itself.

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[Ecam]

Great history! I had no idea the soviets reworked captured machines let alone 300! Then again as I've said elsewhere, I've done very little research outside Allied armor.

This will be a great build to follow.

[Kaczor]

Another interesting subject based on Pz III

[tankme]

Yeah, I printed the same parts and had some of the same issues with them. I modified some of the parts to fit better and cleaned up some of the mis-matched parts where the lines didn't line up. The tool boxes in the STLs were way too long and big so I shortened them up and reprinted them using my slicer.

[ColemanCollector]

If I was a Soviet tanker and saw one of these with an actual roof, I would've spilled most of vodka scrambling out of my SU-76 to get into it.

This will be a cool build!

Mike.

[MrChef]

And yet another seriously cool build. A subject I never knew about at all. So damn I'm learning while having fun. Two thumbs up!

[Herr Dr. Professor]

I don't know if this is any help at all, Jee, but you asked for "good tips on removing the tools from the fenders." Alas, for finishing the relief-cast tools and details, , after the finish coat, any camouflage, and a clear coat, but before weathering and the final clear coat, I just carefully paint with fine brushes using Vallejo, ModelMaster, or Tamiya acrylics. Then the weathering. The clear coat (lacquer) helps protect the basic color and camouflage when I have to quickly wipe off the seemingly inevitable boo boos in painting the acrylic. I use #0, #00, #000, and even #0000 brushes and & power magnifying glasses.
Some of the ones glued in place can be pushed out from the inside after an application of CA glue debonder. Then they can be painted separately.

[jee]

Yeah, I printed the same parts and had some of the same issues with them. I modified some of the parts to fit better and cleaned up some of the mis-matched parts where the lines didn't line up. The tool boxes in the STLs were way too long and big so I shortened them up and reprinted them using my slicer.

Yes I agree. I designed the toolboxes and the tanks new from scratch, a bit smaller and with more details

[jee]

I don't know if this is any help at all, Jee, but you asked for "good tips on removing the tools from the fenders." Alas, for finishing the relief-cast tools and details, , after the finish coat, any camouflage, and a clear coat, but before weathering and the final clear coat, I just carefully paint with fine brushes using Vallejo, ModelMaster, or Tamiya acrylics. Then the weathering. The clear coat (lacquer) helps protect the basic color and camouflage when I have to quickly wipe off the seemingly inevitable boo boos in painting the acrylic. I use #0, #00, #000, and even #0000 brushes and & power magnifying glasses.
Some of the ones glued in place can be pushed out from the inside after an application of CA glue debonder. Then they can be painted separately.

Thanks Herr Dr. any tip helps