Charging a lead battery
In general, a battery should not be recharged too quickly with too much current or voltage. Generally, the charging current should not exceed 1/10 of the value of the discharge current in 10 hours (C10).
So, in your case, it will be 1/10th of 7 Amps, equal to 700 Mah (see max 1 A) for 10 hrs. But isn't that why your turntables burn out? in my opinion too high demand for current at one time!!
charging time calculation, 7000 Mah (7 Ah) divided by the 700 Mah charge gives you a charging time of 10 hrs
1/6 rc stuart tank
Forum rules
If your question is electronics related please post it in one of the relevant boards here: viewforum.php?f=31
If your question is electronics related please post it in one of the relevant boards here: viewforum.php?f=31
Re: 1/6 rc stuart tank
hiya
just ran both motors for about 5 mins straight from the fully charged battery! motors really fast and powerful! couldn't stop the tracks by hand! no heat on wires either! me thinks the problem is trying to find a multi function unit (mfu) that can handle 12v and 12v motors! heng long no good for 1/6 running! i think the clark tk60 would do but can't get one from anywhere! plus i have have tried to use clark tk60's before on 7.2v tanks but couldn't get all the functions working...far to complicated! that's why people stick to 'simple' heng long me thinks! if i can't find an mfu to run my stuart i think i will swap the motors for graupner 7.4v ones! the heng long tk7.1s might be able to handle these? better slower than no speed at all!! md
just ran both motors for about 5 mins straight from the fully charged battery! motors really fast and powerful! couldn't stop the tracks by hand! no heat on wires either! me thinks the problem is trying to find a multi function unit (mfu) that can handle 12v and 12v motors! heng long no good for 1/6 running! i think the clark tk60 would do but can't get one from anywhere! plus i have have tried to use clark tk60's before on 7.2v tanks but couldn't get all the functions working...far to complicated! that's why people stick to 'simple' heng long me thinks! if i can't find an mfu to run my stuart i think i will swap the motors for graupner 7.4v ones! the heng long tk7.1s might be able to handle these? better slower than no speed at all!! md
Re: 1/6 rc stuart tank
ps
i did run my stuart with a brand new heng long tk7.1s around the garden for about 10 mins before it cut out!!! so it did actually run for a short while with all the functions working! recoiling/flashing/smoking barrel....rear smoker...machine gun etc... i have also tested the currant to the motors a few times with a 'multi meter' with the various tk's and 12v registered a few times! like you said though the fully charged battery is around 13.8v...too much for the mfu??? then why do heng long claim their mfu runs on 12v when they know a fully charged battery exceeds that? md
i did run my stuart with a brand new heng long tk7.1s around the garden for about 10 mins before it cut out!!! so it did actually run for a short while with all the functions working! recoiling/flashing/smoking barrel....rear smoker...machine gun etc... i have also tested the currant to the motors a few times with a 'multi meter' with the various tk's and 12v registered a few times! like you said though the fully charged battery is around 13.8v...too much for the mfu??? then why do heng long claim their mfu runs on 12v when they know a fully charged battery exceeds that? md
Re: 1/6 rc stuart tank
You can't find a Clark TK60 because the TK60 is discontinued and replaced by the TK80. The TK60s have been out of stock probably close to two years now.
LiPo batteries are fully charged when they reach 4.2v/cell. The claim it can run on 12.6V because that is around the charge of a maximum charged 3S Lipo battery (4.2V x 3S = 12.6V), not a Sealed Lead Acid battery. A 3S LiPo is 11.1V as it's nominal rating. No HL tanks run on Sealed Lead Acid batteries from the factory - they run on LiPo, Li-Ion, or NiMH. Each battery chemistry has a different maximum fully charged rating for each cell and HL never designed their tanks to run on SLA batteries so the controller is designed around LiPo, Li-Ion, and NiMH.
I've done a lot of custom built tanks, but one concept I always follow is to overbuild it rather than make it "good enough". "Good enough" is "good enough" until a problem occurs. Then "good enough" turns into broken. With the Stuart, you will actually start breaking things like the sprockets if you put too much power to it. They break around the hub section.
If it were me rebuilding the Stuart, I would dump all the electronics in it, use a hobby grade radio, connect an ESC to the turret rotation, use a large servo for the elevation, get an ESC like a Sabertooth for the drive motors/mixing functions, and add a Benedini sound card for the sound. It's definitely not the cheapest way to go for sure.
LiPo batteries are fully charged when they reach 4.2v/cell. The claim it can run on 12.6V because that is around the charge of a maximum charged 3S Lipo battery (4.2V x 3S = 12.6V), not a Sealed Lead Acid battery. A 3S LiPo is 11.1V as it's nominal rating. No HL tanks run on Sealed Lead Acid batteries from the factory - they run on LiPo, Li-Ion, or NiMH. Each battery chemistry has a different maximum fully charged rating for each cell and HL never designed their tanks to run on SLA batteries so the controller is designed around LiPo, Li-Ion, and NiMH.
I've done a lot of custom built tanks, but one concept I always follow is to overbuild it rather than make it "good enough". "Good enough" is "good enough" until a problem occurs. Then "good enough" turns into broken. With the Stuart, you will actually start breaking things like the sprockets if you put too much power to it. They break around the hub section.
If it were me rebuilding the Stuart, I would dump all the electronics in it, use a hobby grade radio, connect an ESC to the turret rotation, use a large servo for the elevation, get an ESC like a Sabertooth for the drive motors/mixing functions, and add a Benedini sound card for the sound. It's definitely not the cheapest way to go for sure.
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
Re: 1/6 rc stuart tank
hiya
you can write on the back of a stamp what i know about 'electronics' matey!!!! lol!! i too have been custom making tanks for many years now ... nearly all 1/16 heng long as they are so easy! 27mhz and 2.4ghz easy peasey!!! i have a regular customer from birmingham whom i do a lot of 1/16 rc tanks/vehicles for...i always fancied a 1/6 tank but far to expensive and heavy to move around..(over 100kg) the 1/6 stuart was ideal for me!! it seems such a pity to 'fall at the last hurdle' when i have spent so much time and money on it! if you contact my via my email address i can send you pics of my stuart and you can see exactly what i mean! i haven't got a clue how to set it up with 'sabretooth/esc/servos etc... i don't want to spend any more money and time on it just to end up back to square one!!! thinking of selling it on ebay! it will be a 'bargain' for a person who will know how to set it up with electrics! cheers md
you can write on the back of a stamp what i know about 'electronics' matey!!!! lol!! i too have been custom making tanks for many years now ... nearly all 1/16 heng long as they are so easy! 27mhz and 2.4ghz easy peasey!!! i have a regular customer from birmingham whom i do a lot of 1/16 rc tanks/vehicles for...i always fancied a 1/6 tank but far to expensive and heavy to move around..(over 100kg) the 1/6 stuart was ideal for me!! it seems such a pity to 'fall at the last hurdle' when i have spent so much time and money on it! if you contact my via my email address i can send you pics of my stuart and you can see exactly what i mean! i haven't got a clue how to set it up with 'sabretooth/esc/servos etc... i don't want to spend any more money and time on it just to end up back to square one!!! thinking of selling it on ebay! it will be a 'bargain' for a person who will know how to set it up with electrics! cheers md
