How do I get the drive wheels off a T34?

[wibblywobbly]

Why did I say what I said  :-[ must be my age...I have a Tiger and a Bulldog and I know which is which... 

An elderly couple had dinner at another couple's house, and after eating, the wives left the table and went into the kitchen.
The two gentlemen were talking, and one said, 'Last night we went out to a new restaurant and it was really great.. I would recommend it very highly.'
The other man said, 'What is the name of the restaurant?'
The first man thought and thought and finally said, 'What is the name of that flower you give to someone you love?
You know.... The one that's red and has thorns.'
'Do you mean a rose?'
'Yes, that's the one,' replied the man. He then turned towards the kitchen and yelled, 'Rose, what's the name of that restaurant we went to last night?'

[wibblywobbly]

Starting to take shape now. I may well plonk Elmod kit in here, it will be a pain removing the HL + Darkith unit from the Bulldog as it is all welded in.

First ever attempt at opening a hatch. Hurrah!

The broken barrel was a nightmare. The WSN muzzle flash is glued into the end of the barrel, and behind it is yet another led also glued in..did the previous owner blow one led and because they couldn't get the old one out they shoved it down the barrel and stuck another one in the end, which may explain why the barrel was broken in half?

So, I had to shorten the barrel to get rid of the old led, drill out the second one that was glued further down, then put some hollow tube inside the break, thread wiring through for the new led and then glue it all up together again. I reinforced it with heatshrink, and will cover that with camo net. The T34 barrel is tapered so I had to file down the base of the new bulb to get it into the end, I will have to source a new barrel from somewhere...but they are rare.

I gave it a quick brush over with dark olive green just so that I could see what I was working with, and cleaned the tracks using water, a toothbrush and garage hand cleaner. The muck that came out of them was amazing. I then put some water and black acrylic in a shallow bowl and totally submersed them to give them an undercoat, and then gave them a brushover with a less dilute solution. I put them on the hull and they run around the wheels as smooth as silk now.

Next up is removal of the battery box, and finish filling all of the holes in the hull.

Rob G

[tankman]

Hi Rob I have some good news and some bad news. You can get the T35/85 aluminium barrel from Tankzone ( good news ) price £19.95 ( bad news ). Hope this helps
Alan

[wibblywobbly]

Thanks Alan, I need to find out whether it is hollow though, otherwise I can't get a muzzle flash in there.

[sevoblast]

Wibbly, price on the final drive kit is going to be about US$85, includes 4 bearings, two turned aluminium inner drive sprockets with steel axels machined to the correct tolerances for the bearings and gear, retainer rings for the gear x 2, all needed aluminium grommets for the drive sprocket lugs and all needed screws and such. Should have some in about two weeks or so. Also just got the first batch of the Tam KV trans plates, on sight as DP31, $29.95. Have another batch coming late next week, as this batch has already sold half.

[sevoblast]

If it's the Schumo barrel, it ain't hollow. I'm standing here with one in me hand. Machine shop may be able to bore out the barrel to take the wires though, but it's going to take a loooooong bit.

[wibblywobbly]

It looks like I am sorted with the gearbox for now, and the hollow barrels are $$*! expensive. I kind of warming to my repaired one!

[wibblywobbly]

Seeing as Matt asked me, I have put a build thread here. Doubtless the Super Pershing build thread will follow shortly...

http://www.rctankwarfare.com/Forums/index.php/topic,3200.msg33003.html#msg33003