VK 16.02 Leopard
- HERMAN BIX
- Major-General
- Posts: 11180
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:15 am
- Location: Gold Coast,Australia
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
What a neat little tank!
A bit better armed than the Luchs and better armour than the Puma if not as nimble.
Cool build & something different for sure.
A bit better armed than the Luchs and better armour than the Puma if not as nimble.
Cool build & something different for sure.
HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
I thought a lot about building this super compact tank, and I would go 100% the same way, use it as the base of the panther and its wheels and chains, and I would use the cap from Puma ... I keep my fingers crossed and I'll watch
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
Hi all,
With the theory and measurements of the previous steps, I am locating on the side of the chassis the holes to screw the arms that support the wheels and the "channel" that allows their movement. All measurements used are taken from the plastic chassis of the Heng Long Panther:
And this would be the movement of the arm:
As for the part where to screw the arm and that holds the spring that acts as a suspension, I want to design something totally inspired by the ludwigs-hobby-seite kits:
With the theory and measurements of the previous steps, I am locating on the side of the chassis the holes to screw the arms that support the wheels and the "channel" that allows their movement. All measurements used are taken from the plastic chassis of the Heng Long Panther:
And this would be the movement of the arm:
As for the part where to screw the arm and that holds the spring that acts as a suspension, I want to design something totally inspired by the ludwigs-hobby-seite kits:
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
you continue nicely and thoughtfully, I will be happy to watch it
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
Hi all,
I did a first design of the swing arm support:
To check the viability of the measurements and movements I have chosen to make a somewhat crude assembly to check that everything works as it should. First, in the absence of a 3d printer, I have built the supports with several layers of 3mm styrene and a wooden rod of the appropriate size (6mm):
And then a side plate and base assembly with the same material intended for the construction, 3 mm styrene, and joined as designed. With the blueprint of the part sticked to the side, I have emptied the material from the holes and screwed everything in place:
And this is how it works:
After several tests, I have reached the following conclusions:
I did a first design of the swing arm support:
To check the viability of the measurements and movements I have chosen to make a somewhat crude assembly to check that everything works as it should. First, in the absence of a 3d printer, I have built the supports with several layers of 3mm styrene and a wooden rod of the appropriate size (6mm):
And then a side plate and base assembly with the same material intended for the construction, 3 mm styrene, and joined as designed. With the blueprint of the part sticked to the side, I have emptied the material from the holes and screwed everything in place:
And this is how it works:
After several tests, I have reached the following conclusions:
- It is a valid design, and the movement of the arm is just as good (or as bad) as they do on the Hen Long chassis.
- 0.5 mm in CAD seems a lot, but when machining parts by hand it is very difficult to adjust to those measurements.
- I have widened the channel where the arm goes up and down to avoid friction.
- I have redesigned the support, shortening the rod and giving the area where the spring is housed a bit more depth. It would be like this:
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
super work ...! you could do it twice twice, once for me
)

Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
LK88 wrote:super work ...! you could do it twice twice, once for me)


Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
For most of the armor plates I will use 3mm thick styrene. It matches quite well with the theoretical armor thickness of the design and I think structurally it will hold up well.
I do not rule out, once the motors and wheel supports have been positioned, reinforce them from side to side to give it greater consistency and serve as a support for the electronics. For certain parts with a high level of detail I will print them in 3d, either in fdm or resin.
For example, the air intakes are already printed in fdm: For the hull I already cut the belly, hull sides and lower front. This is how it looks (unglued): Bevel detail of the belly and the lower front:
I do not rule out, once the motors and wheel supports have been positioned, reinforce them from side to side to give it greater consistency and serve as a support for the electronics. For certain parts with a high level of detail I will print them in 3d, either in fdm or resin.
For example, the air intakes are already printed in fdm: For the hull I already cut the belly, hull sides and lower front. This is how it looks (unglued): Bevel detail of the belly and the lower front:
- HERMAN BIX
- Major-General
- Posts: 11180
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:15 am
- Location: Gold Coast,Australia
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
Jeez its coming together so well.
Im looking forward to the turret
Im looking forward to the turret

HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
Re: VK 16.02 Leopard
To make the bevel of the previous post I have followed the following technique: mark the position of the bevel and hold the part against a straight edge. Next, and with a sandpaper block, the plate is worn down until the desired angle is reached. Here is the lower front halfway through the process:
How do we calculate the distance to grind? It is a simple trigonometric operation, or even easier by seeing the model in onshape:

How do we calculate the distance to grind? It is a simple trigonometric operation, or even easier by seeing the model in onshape:


