Help. advice on what C2 to buy?

[Mattand]

Hello,

I hope that someone can offer some advice as I am finding the choice available all very confusing.

I am looking into buying a 1:16 Challenger 2 in a Green and Black camo version as done by Heng long and Taigen.

As there is so much choice and upgrades available, What I am interested to know is.

Are the Cheaper "all plastic " models any good?
Is it worth upgrading to metal tracks / idlers and sprockets?
Should I be looking for a metal gearbox or are the standard ones perfectly ok?

Are there any differences or benefits in getting a Heng long or Taigen?

Thanks in advance.

Andy

[abramsky]

1. Are the Cheaper "all plastic " models any good?
2. Is it worth upgrading to metal tracks / idlers and sprockets?
3. Should I be looking for a metal gearbox or are the standard ones perfectly ok?

4. Are there any differences or benefits in getting a Heng long or Taigen?

Hello

ad1-2-3. There is nothing wrong with a plastic model for the beginning of your adventure with rc tank - if you have a small budget. You can start with cheap plastic,but you should have plan to upgrade to metal parts that will wear out / break the fastest:
- plastic suspension and road wheels
- plastic track's
- plastic sprockets
- plastic idler wheels
- plastic gears/gearbox (I recommend replacing with Taigen - they have versions with steel gears and axles with bearings. You can choose a variant with high speed or high torque)

Just remember when buying a model with plastic drive elements that you will not run into tall grass and difficult terrain (plastic gears / clutch will disengage the drive under heavy load). However, you should be able to handle flat and relatively firm ground (but avoid sand). So does plastic tracks - they may not withstand maneuvering in grass.


ad4. Are there any differences or benefits in getting a Heng long or Taigen?
Here you should find the answer:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31015

Summarizing. Do not expect from a model with plastic suspension and drive elements that it will last the same as a metal one and that you will easily enter any terrain ( although my son succeeds ... but I constantly repair / replace something )

[Mattand]

Thank you very much for your reply.

It seems like it would be well worth spending more to get metal parts, especially as it will handle more terrain.

Thank you for the link. I am drawing to the Taigen based on that, but one of the critisisms is the sound on the Taigen is not as good.

Do you know if it is possible and how easy would it be to upgarde the sound to the HL ?

Cheers

[Tiger6]

Do Taigen do a version of a Challenger II? I thought they were Heng Long Only.

Anyway, if you intend to hand the controls to a child (I believe that was your intention based on your other post?), I'd recommend sticking with all plastic, and then replacing bits as and when they break. The only upgrade I would consider would be to Taigen black steel gearboxes from somebody like our own Forgebear (do not confuse these with the 'metal' ones that are offered pre-installed on 'Pro' versions, as those are only Zinc Alloy and not as good). Let the kids get used to driving it first tho, as the plastic's have the slipper clutch that will save the electronics in the event of a motor stall when bound up in long grass.

The Challengers tracks are wide and would be heavy in metal. This will increase the wear and strain on the idlers and gearboxes, as well as the electronics. They will also make it much less willing to turn on damp grass, leading to 'driver frustration' and yet more 'abuse'. Idlers are hard to repair if the whole mounting is ripped from the hull (which happens from time to time), so again if you intend a child to use the tank, stick with the plastic and buy yourself a spare track set up front - the individual links are simple to replace if you do have a breakage.

Once the kids get a bit older (or the wife see's thru the pretence of "its for the kids, honest!") then you start looking round for nice add-on's and upgrades

[BarryC]

Does Taigen actually make a Challenger II?

I ask because I have not seen one anywhere only Heng Long.

DKLM makes a metal lower hull for the Heng Long, it is not cheep.
https://www.dklmrc.com/product/challeng ... al_chassis

There are several here who have had issues with the Idler mounts breaking on the HL Challenger II using metal tracks. The design is weak and the metal tracks increase the stress on the molded plastic mount.

Barry

[Tiger6]

Also to add, adding extra weight will also reduce your battery run time.

Upgrading a tank can become a whole 'rabbit hole tumble' of "this broke, so I replaced it with a metal one, that made the tank heavier, that broke this other thing, that I replaced with metal, which caused the next thing to break', and before you know it you are making angry forum posts about how you have spent a small fortune on something that is still battered and broken, and still looks like a toy. If I got given a fiver every time I had to read that story over the last 15 years or so, I would have opened my own tank factory by now

[abramsky]

My advice was about "buying for me" option. Children's is another matter. In that case (as has been said here), go to plastic.
I do not have a Challanger but a Leo2 and Abrams and there is no such problem with the weak tensioner mentioned here. In Abrams, I additionally installed reinforcements inside the lower hull near the tensioner - Leo did not need it.

Don't know if Taigen have Chally in their offer...

About replacing the HL MFU it is not complicated as long as you can read simple diagrams (available on the Internet) and know how to use a soldering iron. Rebuilding from older version will require a few plugs and a different cable connection (which is easy as long as you know what you are doing - each function is usually two + and - cables, and sometimes three if you need an S-signal). HL 6.1s supports servo elevation and recoil (but I do not recommend servo recoil because it does not work realistically in modern tank guns), as well as the Engine Deck Level / auto-tilt mode sensor, which I am just finishing assembling. Work slowly and think what you are doing, and use a multimeter and don't connect the wires when the MFU is on, or if you are not sure where the plus and minus are, or if you have a short circuit and everything should be fine.

[abramsky]

In terms of weight, both my son's tanks weigh around 5-6 kg and we still use plastic tracks - because it's cheaper way. They are constantly being torn off and I am constantly fixing something. The battery is not a problem. You can always buy a bigger one. I put LiPo 2s Turnigy 5000mAh on and my son has 1 hour of fun without refueling. While playing, everything should be done with your head on your neck, then you will avoid major failures
And finally. The new HL electronics ( TK 6.1/6.1s ) can easily withstand an hour's drive in the field and it does not even heat up ... the motors is another story - these are very warm but not hot ( no smell of overheated insulation ). Current consumption from 1.5 - 5 A ( HL was designed TK 6.1 up to 60A, and TK 6.1s up to 160A) . So please do not exaggerate talking about of overheating the electronics ...But of course, you should avoid unnecessarily overloading the drive and electronics and keeping in mind that it is only a toy

[Mattand]

Thank you to everyone for your extensive and informative reply's. They are most appreciated.

With regards to the children, they are young so would only be allowed use it under strict supervision especially as I I now understand the fragility of the Tank, coupled with and the kids outstanding ability to break things!!

Cheers,

Andy