3D printable Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer

[Biasphere1]

looking good.

[50koruny]

Thank you, guys.

Your 1/6 madness is infectious I see Wayne hahahhaa, you got someone else scaling up.
Nice work on the hetzer details.

Yes.I think it can be infectious.
Thank you, Wayne

I am falling in love with 1/6 scale.Everything is much easier to do in that scale.
Printing that beast right now.Tail light and some another details are printed already.
I am really enjoying this.

[midlife306]

You’re welcome lol


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[Will01Capri]

1/6 defo easier on making 3d printed parts stronger and not soo brittle thats for sure.
I just printed a 50cal M2 in 1/6 and all the details came out and its quite strong, the 1/16 version is brittle and has no detail.

If someone wants to buy me a bigger house i will join in with more 1/6 stuff to join in the madness hahahahahha

[50koruny]

I think that whole process of the 3D print is just easier with 1/6.

Have maked separate thread for the 1/6 Hetzer.
Going to add new photos and pictures of the big model there.

viewtopic.php?f=150&t=30831

[50koruny]

Hi.
Have one kit available for sale, if you have an interest.

[Spinnetti]

Very impressive and professional! This is the future of much modeling I think. Your manual is very good also. For me 1/16 is too small, and 1/6 is too big for my house. Most of my RC airplanes are around 1/12 scale, so I decided to do that. While I think you did a great job, there's a number of things I want to do a bit different including a scale drive system with a single brushless electric motor in the back powering through a driveshaft to a front differential with steering brakes on the differential output same as full size. I noticed in your models you seem to have the same gap as I'm finding. There's no good photos of what goes in the gap between the rear idler wheel and the track tensioning mount - I suspect its the offset crank arm which I'll try to replicate. I'm a bit puzzled on that. If my 1/12 Hetzer works out well, I'll do many of the common WWII German AFV's over the next decade or so, while also continuing my previous hobby of 1/6 size fully scale and working landing gear for complex WWII Luftwaffe birds (I just do the gear as there's no good commercial gear for my subjects and the planes are too big for my house too). Keep up the good work, I look forward to what you do next!

[50koruny]

Thank you.I am trying to do my best.
You can trust me that i want to make some things little bit different too.There is a lot of compromises.
Its all about compromises, because i am trying to design accessible models.
It must be as simple as possible and all hardware must be easily available.
Drive system with a driveshaft and differential will be very, very nice.
But its not very suitable for... we can say "mainstream".
Its still about the compromises, as i have said.
I am still trying to find perfect ballance between details and simplicity of build.
If i do models for my own purpose, just one piece, it will include EDM cutted parts, some work with lathe and CNC machines too...
But its not possible in this case, because it can increase price of the kit (dramatically) and it will be impossible to use my STL files to build a whole tank without some special tools.

I dont know almost nothing about that gap between the rear idler wheel and the track tensioning mount.We have the same issue.
But it must be offset crank arm.Very propably.

[Will01Capri]

Thank you.I am trying to do my best.
You can trust me that i want to make some things little bit different too.There is a lot of compromises.
Its all about compromises, because i am trying to design accessible models.
It must be as simple as possible and all hardware must be easily available.
Drive system with a driveshaft and differential will be very, very nice.
But its not very suitable for... we can say "mainstream".
Its still about the compromises, as i have said.
I am still trying to find perfect ballance between details and simplicity of build.
If i do models for my own purpose, just one piece, it will include EDM cutted parts, some work with lathe and CNC machines too...
But its not possible in this case, because it can increase price of the kit (dramatically) and it will be impossible to use my STL files to build a whole tank without some special tools.

I dont know almost nothing about that gap between the rear idler wheel and the track tensioning mount.We have the same issue.
But it must be offset crank arm.Very propably.

You are doing a great job and you are right if trying to make them accessible for others.
I am still going thru the pain with my 251 to make it work as close as i can to the real thing, but it does mean more parts have to be made, so my lathe and drill are getting a workout haha, as are the hand tools!

[Spinnetti]

Thank you.I am trying to do my best.
You can trust me that i want to make some things little bit different too.There is a lot of compromises.
Its all about compromises, because i am trying to design accessible models.
It must be as simple as possible and all hardware must be easily available.
Drive system with a driveshaft and differential will be very, very nice.
But its not very suitable for... we can say "mainstream".
Its still about the compromises, as i have said.
I am still trying to find perfect ballance between details and simplicity of build.
If i do models for my own purpose, just one piece, it will include EDM cutted parts, some work with lathe and CNC machines too...
But its not possible in this case, because it can increase price of the kit (dramatically) and it will be impossible to use my STL files to build a whole tank without some special tools.

I dont know almost nothing about that gap between the rear idler wheel and the track tensioning mount.We have the same issue.
But it must be offset crank arm.Very propably.

Yep, I figured it out today, and found a picture. The offset crank arm sits between the box and the wheel. Inside the box is where the other end of the crank arm and the adjuster goes. In a couple days I'll have something workable sorted out and will post with the picture of it the real parts. Should be "accessible" still. I'm using as much 4mm bolts and 12mm bearings as I can to keep it simple. A cheap RC truck gearbox is both easy and not hard to adapt to the chassis without special tools or parts. The brake drums and linings will be 3d printed.. I think it will be easy enough. I'll start ordering parts pretty soon to try things out. Not sure how big a motor yet, so will have to do some calculations. Will be brushless for sure.