1942 DAK Panzer IV

[PainlessWolf]

Good morning!
Jarndice, I do want to keep the corrected mantlet but may need to use the other version of the barrel mounted aerial deflector. The turret is a Marvel! now that I have put the recoil mechanism gears back into place. Forgebear is the Best!
Onward we go.
regards,
Painless

[jarndice]

The excellent "Pz.Kpfw.1V Ausf. A-F at WAR" as recommended by you sir confirmed that both Aerial Deflectors are correct depending upon the particular variant,
I admit to having had some doubts until I saw both types within the pages of this informative tome.
With all the spare brass/bronze from recently (Rightly) melted down statues perhaps a statue of a guaranteed apolitical Dave & Julie could be cast.
I continue watching your build with interest although even though I know you wont do it I would like to see the front fenders with working hinges but that's just me mr picky

[PainlessWolf]

*chuckles*,
You might be surprised, my Friend, ( but probably not ;o) I have planned to use a scribing blade to make everything look like it works ( join lines and hinges, etc ) and still keep the strength of being molded in one part. This tank will be a runner out in the rough so we will have to see.
Panzer Vor as the General might say.
regards,
Painless

[PainlessWolf]

A little more work tonight on hook reformation and seeing how I can make the deck look more like an F than the J model. It is going to take some work to change out the barrel and mantlet but hopefully, not as much as the early StuG or the Pershing build....
Pics: ( Click to Enlarge )

[Kaczor]

Looking good but will you do something with a notorious Heng Long error - the last roll?

[PainlessWolf]

Mornin' Oddball,
I'll be giving no negative waves today. ;o) I looked at the last roller and while it was dropped a 'little bit' during the initial hull casting, you are right in noting that it has a way to go to be completely accurate. This is a case of where I would rather have the sheer strength of the contact point of the roller mount intact instead of the completely correct appearance. I am already dealing with this nonsense on my Stuart build ( not enough sheer attachment strength available at the rear return roller ) I run my tanks here with the tracks on the slack side to avoid binding from the numerous stones and rocks of the back 'rough' That will help with appearances I think.
regards,
Painless

[jarndice]

I am with you here Painless,
The conversion on the original Plastic Heng Long Hull was not too challenging as long as you use "R" clips instead of "C" clips to retain the rollers axles,
The Taigen Metal hull requires a little more work but having viewed still and video of PZ4s in the field the amazing amount of slack in the tracks when on the "run" should have them falling off in no time and yet they stay in place on the rollers and because they are so slack telling the difference between four in line rollers and three and a dropped roller is not at all easy.
(I am of course using metal tracks)
If your building a shelf queen then yes do get it right but a working model needs to have certain compromises or it will not be a working model for long.
Either way your build is as ever most impressive.

[PainlessWolf]

Good Morning, my Friend,
This lower is a HL plastic hull but it is so old that the return roller pins are just push ins, no clips to retain them... The walls are thin enough that removing the post mount for the rear roller and repositioning it would not give a lot of 'meat' for the attachment point even with epoxy. Best to let this sleeping dog lay. ( I am using all metal running gear and tracks so there is that as well ) Thanks for looking in. It is a treat to hear from the Panzer Meister. ;o)
regards,
Painless

[Max-U52]

Carl!
Thank you, my Friend. I'm having some fun not stressing over how accurate to make the tank. I have some ideas so we will see. Now, if my last two cans ( on the Earth apparently ) of Model Masters Afrika Mustard would make it here.....
regards,
Painless

Have they discontinued the Africa mustard, too? I know they discontinued the dunkelgelb but that was never available in the rattle can. I found three bottles of dunkelgelb enamel online and snatched them up right away. If they've discontinued Africa mustard in the rattle can I know there are at least a half a dozen cans at my local hobby shop and I'll probably run up there and swoop down on them. Oh yeah, the discontinued dunkelgelb was the enamel, it's still available in acrylic.

And while I haven't said much before now, I've been watching this thread right from the start, Painless. You're doing a great job.

[PainlessWolf]

Good Morning Gary,
Yes, I would go grab those rattle cans of the enamel Afrika Mustard as well as any Desert Yellow that you find. Eventually all the enamels in rattlecans are going away. Thanks for looking in, the encouragement is appreciated! Yep, trying to build something new out of an old tank seems to be my gig anymore.
regards,
Painless