CALLING ON THE BRAINTRUST

[SCHWEREPANZER]

Hi All,

I'm in process of building one of Chris Ludwigs Panther II kits and using Taigen King Tiger metal wheels. The inner wheels will have the correct hubs using Woz's 3-D hubs from Shapeways. The outer wheels, after the Taigen center hub is removed, will be filled with neodymium magnets and a resin hex nut to replicate something pretty close to the correct outer wheel profile. Problem is, I can't remove the center hub from the Taigen outer road wheels. The long shaft of the inner wheel hubs make for easy removal of the hub, but the hubs on the outer wheels are inserted tighter than a .......

Tapping the back side of the wheel at the inserted shaft is not an option as that splays the end of the shaft. And, there's a small piece on the inside of the inner facing of the outer wheel that prevents the shaft from being tapped through to knock the cap out, which is what I'm trying to do. Using something like a car battery cable remover is what's called for, but that remedy didn't work.

So, lads, I turn to the brain trust that resides here for guidance. What say you?

Sorry for the long winded explanation.

[Son of a gun-ner]

If the end of the shaft you want to tap is threaded, put a nut or two on it so that it's the nut that takes the force of the blows.
If the end of the shaft is smooth (not threaded), use a suitable piece of tube, preferably brass, that is longer than the shaft end, and that will sit against the axle shoulder where it's a bigger diameter, then tap the end of the tube.
Sorry I can't be any more help as I don't have those wheels to look at.

[SCHWEREPANZER]

Many thanks, Mick, for the suggestions. The shafts in this case are smooth (non-threaded), but the configuration of these wheels doesn't allow for this tried and true fix-it. I think something more akin to plain ole brute force might be called for for this one.

Thanks again.

[Son of a gun-ner]

How about drilling a hole in the centre of the hub, either threading the hole for a screw, or use a suitable sized self tapper that's tight in the hole, and screw it in against the end of the shaft?
Or put a rod in the hole to pry the hub off.
That is, I'm guessing you don't need the old hubs.

[971wright]

Hi The Panther II only has 7 road wheels big step if your going to do it.

regards pete

[jeff489]

Also be sure to pay close attention to the mantlet. Ludwig's is all wrong, because it looks too....Stug'ish. Panther 2 had a more angular mantlet. A nice reference is Panzer Tracts No. 5-4

[SCHWEREPANZER]

Thanks to Mick, Pete and Jeff for your helpful comments.

Mick,

Thanks. The back out screw method was a path I was reluctant to take as I was afraid of enlarging and marring the hub opening. Woz's Panther II hubs were made to fit the size opening after the original metal hubs were removed. Luckily, I had an epiphany and it dawned on me that I knew of a chap who works on antique cars who has made a number of tools for some of the small parts he works with. Voila, he had a "press" that happened to have the attributes to press the hubs out. As the good Inspector Clouseau would have said, "the problem, it is sol-ved." Thanks again for the input. All of your suggestions would have worked had I the courage to try them.

Pete,

The Ludwig kit properly spaces the seven road wheels. I have seen one example of a Panther II build where the builder did the proper cutting and filling to re-space the odd arrangement of the Panther II's road wheels. It's a talent beyond my capabilities.

Jeff,

Thanks. I do have that Panzer Tracts reference. I was not planning on using the Ludwig turret, but the smaller Asiatam Panther F turret with a long barrel; more a hybrid or "what-if" tank. My OCD is not so bad that I can't adapt when needed. There is, as you know, considerable speculation as to just what the turret envisioned for the Panther II would be as the only surviving chassis, captured by British forces at the end of the war, had only weight rings rather than an actual turret.

[jeff489]

I used the pictures and reference material in PT 5-4. Ended up being a modified looking Schmalturm. Had the mantlet 3d printed by Shapeways.