Drive sprocket issues.

[gcav17]

Well seeing how I had problems at the very beginning. I kinda think it was a problem at the factory. Or where ever it was built. The same track keeps breaking. And on that same side the drive sprocket was faulty. (Probably my fault. It was missing a lock washer when I fixed it originally. I think I lost it. )
As for my track always breaking. I have no clue. The drive wheel is firm on the final drive assembly.

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[Son of a gun-ner]

Well, I have noticed with Heng Longs that when people have problems with the drive, it is usually the left hand side. I'm trying to collect up as much info on these problems to find out what's actually wrong, and without getting my hands on one to actually see the problem, it hasn't been easy.
Have you had a look at the alignment of all the wheels when you've had a track off?

These washers are good for the sprocket screw.
They are internal star or toothed lock washers, either of the two types I show are good. Note teeth are in the hole, not on the outer edge, better for small sized screws.

[gcav17]

I am assuming that because my problem was on the left. Is because it's a right turn screw and no thread lock or washer. I ran it for awhile after I fixed it and the sprocket is still tight. I do notice the idler and track do not mesh well when running. It always wants to pop to inside which puts more stress on the drive. Is that what you mean by lining up?

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[Son of a gun-ner]

When I say lining up, I mean, are all the wheels in a straight line, so that the track follows a straight line, this is, road wheels, idler and sprocket.
Notice in my picture of a king tigers wheels, all road wheels are lined up, but the idler is at an angle, this was caused at the factory, they put the screw for the idler at a forward angle, about 5 degrees out from square, it caused the track to come off, probably would have broken the track had I run it more.

[gcav17]

Ok. So how do you fix that? I have the same issue but on both sides.

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[Son of a gun-ner]

Ok. So how do you fix that? I have the same issue but on both sides.

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Are yours at the wrong angle like mine, or are they just in or out too far?

With mine, I had to drill out the chassis where the screw fitted, so I could fit a plug, then drill a hole in the plug for the screw at the correct angle.

[gcav17]

Ok. So tonight I took off all the track. There is a bit of play on the sprockets on the D shaft. Maybe a 32nd of an inch forward and backward. They do wobble a bit left and right.
I have plastic roadwheels. They sorta line up. But mostly straight and level.
The idlers are strange. One is not square. It's got an angle to it like you say. On the left. One has play in and out. The other doesn't. (The left one doesn't)
Pics to follow.
I hope this helps out. I would like some answers.

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[Son of a gun-ner]

Wow, looking at your third (picture 7) and fourth (picture to last pictures, your idlers definitely don't look in line.
Picture 8 looks like the idler screw isn't tightened up?!

As for the play of the sprocket on the D, that would most likely cause the screw to undo, under driving load, and with the weight of the metal tracks, the sprocket would be forced to work back and forth on the shaft, the screw that holds the sprocket on the shaft is too small a size to lock tight enough to stop it happening without risking snapping the screw.
The thread lock and a toothed lock washer would help to keep the screw in place. Also something in the sprocket D, like a little, and I do mean little amount of blue tack may eliminated the wobble. Also, it would benefit to fit drive shaft support bearings that attach to the hull.

For the idlers, I would recommend a Henntech idler adjuster.

Tamiya lovers are going to cherish what I'm about to say now, sadly, Heng Long tanks are a bit hit and miss, especially with their quality control and assembly line. But, that being said, for the price, they do make a good entry into RC tanking, especially if like me, you don't mind the challenge of getting them to run.

Now the choice is yours, do you spend roughly 200 quid on a complete Taigen rolling chassis and discard the chassis you have. Or do you just do the necessary modifications to what you have? The two I suggested above would be around 50 quid.
You would also benefit from what we call clocking, which is done to the first and last road wheel suspension springs. An extra little hole is drilled in the chassis where the suspension springs are retained, about 2.5mm clockwise in the round slot. This will reduce those end wheels from pushing up too easily when the tank is running, as the tracks have a tendency to pull those wheels up and make the track tension loose. It all adds up to cause track problems.

Edit, just realised you are in the states, no wonder you're up so late and past my bed time lol. Therefore I'm not sure how much those items I mentioned would cost you over there.

[HERMAN BIX]

Clock the first & last springs for sure.
The H/L Tiger idlers are indeed hit and miss....................a bit like Tamiya tanks that each have their own problems, but cost more and are harder to get parts for, & have less options to solving said problems.

Place another spacer washer behind the idler, two of them wont matter to the spacing off-set, but the extra alignment and rigidity will be worthwhile. You can always remove it if necessary.

[Max-U52]

I'm with Mick on the hentek. That would take care of your idler problems quite nicely.