Comet A34- Ludwig kit

[43rdRecceReg]

Thanks, Lee. Yes, projects such as these are often vastly more complex ( and packed with unforeseen challenges), than one might suppose. Still, whilst getting a result might well be the ultimate aim, most the pleasure (and most of the pain) comes from solving problems; learning on the job- so to speak-and from improvising.
Newly resupplied with necessary goodies, I returned to the Upper Hull to add a few bits.
By the way, click to enlarge these pics.
I've been using Imgur lately for most of my postings, and this app presents and resizes the images here nicely in Cinemascope. BUT... I discovered recently that if a pic is removed from Imgur, it will also disappear here. If a pic is not clicked within 6 months on the Imgur site, it could be removed automatically. While members might well look at the pics here, I'm fairly sure the general public won't be clicking away
on pics of model tanks, and tank parts on Imgur. So...these could fall foul of the no-click rule.
For those who can recall the devastation to the pics in archived threads by Photobucket's shenanigans, I don't want all the pics vanishing into the ether if Imgur begins deleting them.
So...many of the pics from now on will be uploaded directly from my Mac.
No...it's not acupuncture for armour. But these small drill bits can be used as a jig when fitted into the pre-formed bolt holes.

Acupuncture for model armour-or the Comet turret ring plate fitment.

[43rdRecceReg]

I also put some furnishings on the Glacis plate. It's easier to do when the plate is still attached to the plate sprue. What's more, I'm not going to fit it to the Lower Hull, until the Henntec unit has been fitted. Working on Henntec is a nightmare with the glacis plate in place. Fitting the headlights and headlight protectors is also a lot easier off-tank.

Comet build glacis plate

Now for the Driver's portal, and the brackets that support the periscopes...
This one is in Imgur-scope:

and this, another acupuncture shot:


As you can see, even if you click on the pic I uploaded directly, it doesn't fill the screen in the same way that these two Imgur images do.

[43rdRecceReg]

Fitting the Henntec unit seems to be the next logical step. The sooner the idlers and drive sprockets can be fitted, the better it is to see whether all the suspension components are going to align in the way they should. (The horns of the tracks should be able to travel in a straight line between the return rollers, idlers, and double roadwheels.)

Comet build- fitting Henntec track tensioner unit.

The holes in the lower front armour plate, were likely intended as access points for the grub screw in the steel locking ring. However, I found that there was not quite enough room in the sandwich of plates to accommodate the locking ring. For that reason, I left it located on the inside of the tank. I did, however, orient the grub screw so that it can be slackened or tightened after the glacis plate is bonded in place.
This is fairly necessary.
I also had to trim the edge of the unit, so that it sits neatly along the line of the lower front armour plate


As this is going to be a fairly stressed part of the model when the tracks are fitted, I decided to bond in some supports (little bulkheads) between the plates in the sidewall, just in front of the retaining screw.
This also allowed me to tighten the nut and screw without deforming the plates.

Support added to side plates holding Henntec unit

All of this didn't require that much effort. However, it now occurs to me that it would have been better to look at the return roller fittings, perhaps, before binding the sides together.
No mention of this is made in the instructions..so I didn't give it enough thought. The prototype Comet had no return rollers, just like the Cromwell it was developed from. The production version did, however, and so does the model.
According to CL, Pz 111 return rollers are the ones to fit, so I'm looking into getting some. I have a full set of Tamiya Pz IV rollers, but finding retaining bolts long enough to go through the Roller holders and side walls (they normally go through one only) and the 5mm gap between the plates- is something I'd not anticipated. It looks like I'll need lengths of threaded rod and matching nuts.

[43rdRecceReg]

A few updates. Here I've added the tow shackle brackets to the front armour plate. The Glacis plate is in place for appearance's sake, but won't be bonded on until the headlights and light protectors are fitted.
Click to ENLARGE...

Front tow shackle support brackets

I also assembled the upper hull storage boxes. I intend to fit a back panel to the units so that when bonded to the lower hull, (concealed) screws can lock pass through into the upper hull, helping to lock the two together. More on that, later.

Assembly is fairly straightforward, so long as set squares are used:

Storage box assembly

If you look at CL's build instructions, the storage boxes shown are those for the Cromwell. These have raised ribs for strengthening the plate, on the lid and front; just like the real thing. However, storage boxes on
the Comet don't have these ribs, so it's not necessary to fill the preformed slots on the panels with 1mm styrene. I will just turn the lid over, to the smooth side, when fitting it.

[43rdRecceReg]

Time to fit the newly arrived mudguard support brackets.

Mudguard or Fender support brackets

and fitted:

Mudguard brackets in place

The thing about semi-scratch construction is, just when things are moving along, there's always a conundrum, or obstacle, just around the corner.
This one concerns the return rollers.
This is all you get on return rollers, as per CL's pdf:

Comet build- CL-Return rollers pic A

Comet build-CL-Rollers A.jpeg (93.46 KiB) Viewed 2872 times

Comet return rollers-CL-pic C.

And that's it: three pics, and no comment.
I'm guessing that the Pz 111 return roller mountings have been glued in place, because unless there's some locking arrangement (nuts and washers) immediately behind the outer hull wall, there's no other way of attaching the mounting. Why? Well, the standard axle supplied with the mounting isn't long enough to go through the roller (even starting from the midpoint of the roller, some 18mm from the outer plate), the mounting, two walls and a gap. Have a look at this:
These are aligned as they would appear with the hull wall on the left. The polished steel axle is the standard one for Taigen and HL. It's long enough to go from the midpoint of the Roller (it's head is sandwiched
between the two halves of the roller), through the mounting, and one layer of styrene.
The black axle is from the Tiger 1 roadwheel suspension, and is long enough to pass through the roller; the mounting and the Comet's doubled- up sides. This is the one I'll be adapting for use.

The roller see here is a Schumo Pz IV type, and I may use it for the build. I'm waiting for a delivery of the Taigen Pz III type in the meantime. Should you chose to build the Comet with Pz III gear, do remember that you will need to order two sets of mountings, as the Pz 111 set only has 6 mounts, and this tank needs 8.

[43rdRecceReg]

Pz IV and Pz 111 mounting and rollers will probably cut the mustard here. The centre line running through the wheels, rollers, idlers, and drive sprockets is roughly at a distance of 18mm from the hull side, in both instances. Also
Whether Schumo, HL, or Taigen, the rollers and mounts combined seem to stick out by around 24mm. Anyway, we'll see when the bits arrive.

Panzer 111 suspension alignment

Do, I have a way of sorting this. But here's the conundrum, this sheet of parts arrived with the kit:

I've spent a good few hours wondering what the bits are for. Clearly, there are three (3mm thick) rings for each of the roller mounting base; but they make no appearance at all (guest or otherwise), in the Pdf build.
If they're meant to go between the two side panels- well, it's too late. Anyway, the base itself only duplicates the one that's already CNC cut into the hull wall:

Comet roller mounting position.

With the extra long Tiger 1 axle, I won't need to wonder what these bits are for. I'll just ignore them, as - apart from enlarging the hole in the mounting slightly to accommodate the greater diameter of the Tiger shaft, the arrangement I have in mind should work..
Speculating about it a bit more, I'm guessing that the three rings could be bonded together, to make an alternative budget roller support mounting. Something like this:

Alternate roller mounting?

In any event, as I've already said I'm going to bypass this conundrum

[43rdRecceReg]

Back to the storage boxes. I got on with (carefully) cutting out some backing pieces for the units. Drilling through these, into the upper hull sides, will provide a discrete means of fixing upper and lower hulls together.
A couple of self- tappers will then provide a firm attachment, and fairly quick separation, when needed. There are no off-the-shelf quick release mechanisms for the Comet.

Comet build-backing pieces for storage units

The two tools involved: the Tamiya cutting tool, and the Safety cutting ruler I find invaluable- even though they were inexpensive. The ruler has kept the gore out of scratch building, and allows one to slice away with confidence

Comet build-Storage box backs

Then, I got some 10mm broad staples, and began fitting them to the engine deck. I took the locations, and dimensions, of the deck's handles from the blueprints I downloaded. Again, blueprints can be a priceless aid in the build process. So much of the build involves calculations (scale comparisons etc.,), bits of geometry, micrometer use, and so on- all to answer questions that arise, and to which there are no easy answers.
Anyway, I also had time to assemble the read mudguards. Given that only four parts are involved (two plates and two ribs), I thought I'd skip the pics. Essentially, the rearmost part of the mudguard has two ribs that fit into two precut slots. The smaller rib goes at the top, larger one in the bottom slot, while the triangular section, with bolt holes, is bonded on the outside edge. It was fairly straightforward.
Overall, I'd say the Comet kit is an improvement on the Cromwell (although I think they're both great). Having precut holes for the Henntec unit, helpful location slots here and there, and an abundance of jig-like location holes all serve to make the build a tad less frustrating.

This is what the rear end looks like after the most recent additions.:

A few handles are still needed, and some working hinges. The ones from the Shapeway's Cromwell accessories should help create an authentic look. Despite an abundance of Comet walkaround pics- including the ones I took at Munster and Bovington, snaps showing close-ups of engine deck details are hard to find. Still, the Blueprints have helped
Time for a slurp..

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Good progress

[HERMAN BIX]

A monumental work in styrene Mr 43rd!.............a challenge for you would be to make a set of instructions that Mr Ludwig can have to hand for English speaking customers perhaps.
Lucky for you the written word has no accent issues to overcome

With the suspension components being so embedded in the model, is there a risk of park-it-on-the-shelf component failure once its run for a while just as replacing bits is way too hard ?

[tomhugill]

A monumental work in styrene Mr 43rd!.............a challenge for you would be to make a set of instructions that Mr Ludwig can have to hand for English speaking customers perhaps.
Lucky for you the written word has no accent issues to overcome

With the suspension components being so embedded in the model, is there a risk of park-it-on-the-shelf component failure once its run for a while just as replacing bits is way too hard ?

If it’s anything like the Cromwell, replacing suspension components is an inconvenience rather than an impossibility, I snapped a bit on mine and had to take the arm, spring etc out.