Israeli Centurion - Sho’t Kal C (Gimel) - IDF 1980s - Build
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
Awesome update, great to see her on wheels and suspension!
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Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
Massively complex work !
Either a magical interior of an APC or the multiple facets of a contemporary AFV.
You sure take on the hard ones eh !!
Either a magical interior of an APC or the multiple facets of a contemporary AFV.
You sure take on the hard ones eh !!
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HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
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Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
It looks fantastic Louis top notch work, it's surely going to be another masterpiece
Cheers, Lee.
Cheers, Lee.
Me ? Addicted ? Never !!
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
Hi, thank you all for your encouragements. The build is going well and actually better than expected.
This post is presenting the Centurion idler adjuster and idler wheels.
Here is the real thing as seen in the book "Centurion of the IDF Vol 1". This book is essential for the Centurion builder, providing tons of detailed close ups.
These are the parts provided with the basic kit for the idler adjuster and wheels. I am happy to see that the body of the adjuster is a fairly accurate and well designed 3D printed part that will require only some extra detailing to look really good.
But the adjustable arm for the axle does not come with threads, which complicates things for the builder like me that does not have specialized tools for create tapped holes.
The adjustable axel arm is made of aluminum, so I was able to do it the hard way by slowly screwing the metal bolt into the aluminum hole and making the threads as I go in, being careful not to force too much and break the bolt. I backed out to remove aluminum material with a bit when required, then continue until I am through.
It worked.
The assembled arm, the bolt is moving well into the tapped hole, with the required resistance, but not too much.
Close up of the 3D printed Idler adjuster body. I was pleased to see that it can be installed on the Centurion with real metal bolts. I have calculated that M1.4 X 10 metal bolts with nuts and washers provide the best option. The part can also be easily improved with some more details.
The finished idler on the right compared to the original part. I have replaced some 3D printed material with metal components that provide more precision and accuracy.
The 3D printed idler wheels and shafts were installed as per pictures in instructions with no real difficulty. You just need to measure all dimensions for shafts, brass tubes, and get the ball bearings to fit on the tube.
Continuing on following post
This post is presenting the Centurion idler adjuster and idler wheels.
Here is the real thing as seen in the book "Centurion of the IDF Vol 1". This book is essential for the Centurion builder, providing tons of detailed close ups.
These are the parts provided with the basic kit for the idler adjuster and wheels. I am happy to see that the body of the adjuster is a fairly accurate and well designed 3D printed part that will require only some extra detailing to look really good.
But the adjustable arm for the axle does not come with threads, which complicates things for the builder like me that does not have specialized tools for create tapped holes.
The adjustable axel arm is made of aluminum, so I was able to do it the hard way by slowly screwing the metal bolt into the aluminum hole and making the threads as I go in, being careful not to force too much and break the bolt. I backed out to remove aluminum material with a bit when required, then continue until I am through.
It worked.
The assembled arm, the bolt is moving well into the tapped hole, with the required resistance, but not too much.
Close up of the 3D printed Idler adjuster body. I was pleased to see that it can be installed on the Centurion with real metal bolts. I have calculated that M1.4 X 10 metal bolts with nuts and washers provide the best option. The part can also be easily improved with some more details.
The finished idler on the right compared to the original part. I have replaced some 3D printed material with metal components that provide more precision and accuracy.
The 3D printed idler wheels and shafts were installed as per pictures in instructions with no real difficulty. You just need to measure all dimensions for shafts, brass tubes, and get the ball bearings to fit on the tube.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Wed May 08, 2019 2:39 am, edited 3 times in total.
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
The idler adjusters can be easily mounted on the hull with nine M1.4 metal bolts each. Although the real one has ten bolts (4 at the bottom instead of 3), replicating those 4 bolts would have been difficult at 1/16 scale, so three is a good compromise. I tried M1.6 bolts but these looked too large and did not allow the screwdriver to fix the bolts properly.
I ordered steel M1.4 bolts, nuts and washers and will install them when they arrived in a week. I have temporarily put on 2 brass screws to test the fit of the adjuster, its perfect. I am very happy with the results.
Replacing the 3D printed screws on the idler wheels on both side is tempting, but would be a lot of work. I will take more pictures of the adjuster installation once my order for M1.4 steel bolts arrive.
The model as it stand today.
Regards, Louis
I ordered steel M1.4 bolts, nuts and washers and will install them when they arrived in a week. I have temporarily put on 2 brass screws to test the fit of the adjuster, its perfect. I am very happy with the results.
Replacing the 3D printed screws on the idler wheels on both side is tempting, but would be a lot of work. I will take more pictures of the adjuster installation once my order for M1.4 steel bolts arrive.
The model as it stand today.
Regards, Louis
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
This is my one criticism of Ludwigs stuff, you pay a small fortune and the parts are not drilled or cleaned.
I explained to Chris that not everyone has all the tools and these bits should be done before sending out.
Still, you’ve made good headway. Looks great.
I explained to Chris that not everyone has all the tools and these bits should be done before sending out.
Still, you’ve made good headway. Looks great.
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
Yeah, every step is pretty much a struggle, but I would get bored without it.Ad Lav wrote:This is my one criticism of Ludwigs stuff, you pay a small fortune and the parts are not drilled or cleaned.
I explained to Chris that not everyone has all the tools and these bits should be done before sending out.
Still, you’ve made good headway. Looks great.
Here are the 3D printed return rollers, of good quality. I only have these metal bolts left so I figured they must be used for the roller shafts, but the instruction pictures are showing something different. No matter, these will have to do.
The bolt is loose inside a brass tube that was inserted by the previous owner inside the return roller external mount. The problem is that the available bolts are too short, the tip does not come out inside the hull so that a nut can be put on to lock it in place.
Need longer bolts but these specialized bolts are not something you can find at Home Depot. I saw not alternatives but to take out the brass tubes and rework it.
I just crushed them a bit with pliers in order to give the bolts something solid to chew into and hold on to, then with a good level of pressure, I put back the tube inside the return roller mount with a good dose of superglue around it.
Need to test each one to ensure the grip is good. Ugly but a simple and fast solution.
The return rollers are installed. I am happy to see that they are all perfectly aligned between themselves and with the road wheels below.
Next step is to install the gearbox, sprockets, tracks and do a test run.
Regards, Louis
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
Hi,
Continuing with the suspension
I received the M1.4 metal bolts to finalize the installation of the idler adjuster. The head of the kit main bolt was filed and reduced in size in order to fit the size of the real one.
The little washers and nuts gave me trouble to install. I highly recommend that you install the idler adjuster before putting on the fenders... my mistake.
Humm, for a perfect job, I should cut these bolts just above the nuts.
Gearbox tested and installed.
These are the Ludwigs final drives as they came to me and are obviously the scene of a struggle. They do not look right. I determined later that the designer likely had to reduce them in size and give these weird curves in order to fit them without impacting movements of the third boggie. More on that later.
Now the idea is to make them look better and as close as possible to the design of the real final drive, and also add the small return roller that is highly visible. I did not use the kit components for it.
The drive is reshaped, and more details are added. It is missing about 3mm between the 2 round panels and the tip. No choice to leave it like that, otherwise it does not fit in place correctly. The roller is from the spare box, these are Tamiya panzer IV metal rollers. I had 4 metal struts coming with the kit so I will use them for the rollers.
Meng 1.4mm bolts/nuts are added to the final drive, improving the look.
Final drive installed. The return roller strut was given a brass tube.
Continuing on following post.
Continuing with the suspension
I received the M1.4 metal bolts to finalize the installation of the idler adjuster. The head of the kit main bolt was filed and reduced in size in order to fit the size of the real one.
The little washers and nuts gave me trouble to install. I highly recommend that you install the idler adjuster before putting on the fenders... my mistake.
Humm, for a perfect job, I should cut these bolts just above the nuts.
Gearbox tested and installed.
These are the Ludwigs final drives as they came to me and are obviously the scene of a struggle. They do not look right. I determined later that the designer likely had to reduce them in size and give these weird curves in order to fit them without impacting movements of the third boggie. More on that later.
Now the idea is to make them look better and as close as possible to the design of the real final drive, and also add the small return roller that is highly visible. I did not use the kit components for it.
The drive is reshaped, and more details are added. It is missing about 3mm between the 2 round panels and the tip. No choice to leave it like that, otherwise it does not fit in place correctly. The roller is from the spare box, these are Tamiya panzer IV metal rollers. I had 4 metal struts coming with the kit so I will use them for the rollers.
Meng 1.4mm bolts/nuts are added to the final drive, improving the look.
Final drive installed. The return roller strut was given a brass tube.
Continuing on following post.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Sat May 11, 2019 10:41 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
Those Meng nuts are adding a lot to the look of the final drives.
The length of the final drive and the positioning of the roller was calculated so that it does not interfere with the boggie operation.
Test fit of the tracks. These all metal Elefant track are really heavy.
Overview of the model. I still have to install another single wheel roller at the front and then I will install the tracks and electronics.
Regards, Louis
The length of the final drive and the positioning of the roller was calculated so that it does not interfere with the boggie operation.
Test fit of the tracks. These all metal Elefant track are really heavy.
Overview of the model. I still have to install another single wheel roller at the front and then I will install the tracks and electronics.
Regards, Louis
Re: Israeli Centurion - Shot Kal Gimel - IDF 1980s - Build
View of the real sprocket.
And the Ludwig sprocket for comparison
And the Ludwig sprocket for comparison